Best adhesive for sticking skirting to plasterboard?

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Purple Box, Aug 5, 2007.

  1. Purple Box

    Purple Box New Member


    I was wondering what would be the best grab adhesive for this job, solvent or non solvent? The plasterboard is new and reasonably straight, and can you use it for the door architrave or is it easier to pop some nails in?

    Your thoughts would be much appreciated....
    thanks in advance
  2. hayl

    hayl New Member

    Hi Julian, I haven't tried anything other than gripfill. I use it for almost everything (the green tube). Iv'e just used it for fitting skirting in my property and it has gone off solid. Iv'e also used it for fixing a load of other materials, it seems to stick to anything.
  3. russ295

    russ295 New Member

    make sure you seal the new plaster first, pva/water 50/50 will do

  4. Ion Transient

    Ion Transient New Member

    > I was wondering what would be the best grab adhesive
    for this job, solvent or non solvent?

    solvent is best, non solvent = waste of time

    > and can you use it for the door architrave

    yes you can

    > or is it easier to pop some nails in?

  5. Trog

    Trog New Member

    "> or is it easier to pop some nails in?


    How to de-skill a trade or what. Glue your mitres with pva and nail the architraves back *** at least you know it's going to last. Jesus, one slam of the door and gravity's gonna take over. Gripfill whilst it is good gear is not the be all and end all of fixing.

    Where are all the craftsmen gone.

    Here they come the screwfix men, like the Bengal Lancers. Half of them were time served men, the rest were ***** chancers.

    [Edited by: admin5]
  6. hallbeck

    hallbeck New Member

    I have to say that i am with Troq on this. You have to nail architraves on - i pva glue them too. It only takes a minute and means they won't come off.

    There is too much bl00dy rushing these days!
  7. dunc

    dunc New Member

    I had to use pink grip on a loft conversion second fix. The fire isulation was about 4 inches thick and went down to floor level. So I just braced the skirting against the wall and left it overnight. It worked reasonably well.
  8. hallbeck

    hallbeck New Member

    Just glueing skirting is not the same as just glueing architrave. Architrave has to take the knocks of doors slamming etc
  9. Trog

    Trog New Member

    When faced with that situation Dunc that's all you can do really.

    I just get really narked when things are just bodged 'cause the chippy can't be @rsed to do a proper job.
  10. malkie129

    malkie129 Screwfix Select

    I ain't a chippie, but imagine how you feel when you buy a house & some cowboy has fitted doors & skirtings etc. :(
  11. damo

    damo New Member

    I always use nails and adhesive when fixing skirts to plasterboard, then Im confident Ive achieved a good solid fixing. It doesnt take as much time as what you may think to apply a few squiggles and blobs of grip fill and if youve got a second fix pasload it only takes a few seconds to bang a few nails in at approx every 400 centres. As far as architraves are concerned I agree also that it is essential you use nails, no harm in spotting on a bit of adhesive as well either.
  12. malkie129

    malkie129 Screwfix Select

    Like I said...Easy for cowboys to fix with modern adhesives, but pity the poor bloke that has to remove them.
  13. lojo

    lojo New Member

    acceptable labour costs really push us into using gripfill for skirtings alot of the time

    Use wood glue and pins on all mitres
  14. devil's advocate

    devil's advocate New Member

    Hi Julian.

    Ok, cat among the pigeons time...

    I'm not a pro, and I'm assuming you aren't either?! So, what I use in my house is solvent-free and about three 40-50mm panel pins per length of architrave - on skirting I would use as few nails as I can get away with (less filling afterwards!) to hold the boards flat whilst the adhesive sets.

    I use solvent-free because it doesn't 'skin' as quickly and the excess which squishes out the sides is taken care of by running a finger tightly along the join, followed by a damp cloth - this leaves a very neat finish, with the added advantage it'll automatically fill any small gaps.

    I use a few panel pins because very few lengths of arch are perfectly straight, and you also can't rely on solvent-free to 'grab' strongly enough on its own.
  15. gardm1nt

    gardm1nt New Member

    I always nail or screw and plug with large skirting,it is asking a lot of ANY grab adhesive to hold a long length of 6" hardwood skirting up.

    With smaller skirting and architraves then gripfill green and brads from the passy second fix.
  16. Purple Box

    Purple Box New Member

    Many thanks for all your quick replies.....
  17. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    There is nothing deskilled or cowboy about using Gripfill for skirtings. On longer runs I will use my masonry nailer as well but more really to hold the skirting while the gripfill goes off. Architraves get brads. Not a good policy to just gripfill them on. That is a bit John Wayne. As for mitres I mitrebond them. Sorry but it works well for me. Never nail a mitre always just the mitrebond. Modern isocyanates get stronger the more the joint is pulled apart. If it is deskilled to use gripfill then why are you using PVA, nails, plugs, screws, electricity, a computer etc somebody invented all them. Give up the gramophones grandads and get with the modern age.
  18. damo

    damo New Member

    "Acceptable labour costs" also entails doing the job properly you know and up to industrial standards. Im sorry, but skirting boards should be pinned with 50mm masonary or cut nails, simply just glueing them is unacceptable wether its solvent based or not.
    Never heard of "panel pinns" being used to fix skirting( maybe for mitres), absolutely ridicululous.
    Why complicate things; concrete wall: screw,plug and glue, Plasterboard wall: pinn and glue, Architraves: pinn (and glue if you want) use P.V.A for mitres especialy if stepping. Obviously plane and sand joints if there is a step (finished wall is out), use packings to keep joints flush with one and other or use nails to pinn them flush.
    Easy peasy.
  19. yorkshireboy

    yorkshireboy Member

    Surely a pin/oval nail is essential to keep the architrave mitres flush with each other.
  20. Chekhov

    Chekhov Member

    I remember when "Gripfill" was called "Gunoprene" and cost 99p a tube. Then some marketing wonk had the bright idea of re-branding it as "No Nails" or "Sticks Like ****" or whatever and all off a sudden it cost £3.99!

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