Best adhesive for sticking skirting to plasterboard?

Y.B, I didnt just mean glue the mitres together if stepping, obviously use ovals or lost heads to pinn them back to the frame!!! Pinning the mitres on archs is very important.
Ahem!!

 

Sorry damo.I was referring to Golden,he said "never nail a mitre

 

gripfill when used properly is a perfectly adequate method of fixing skirtings. As i say on longer runs I masonry nail them as well but for short runs gripfill is fine. with a superglue and activator i find no need to nail my mitres. the glue is off in 5 seconds.

 

you try pulling a mitrebonded mitre apart, it holds incredibly well. i glue up my mitres on architraves and then fix both legs and the head as one unit. works well for me and i dont ever have them come apart. If modern technology helps you do a job just as well but faster why not embrace it. You stick to your ways and I will continue to move on.

 

Sorry for the misunderstanding y.b, Its me Ive been doing nothing but second fix these last few weeks; doors, mainly skirting and archs I am getting a bit carried away with this forum.
I must adimit I kind of agree with golden, I suppose theres nothing wrong with just glueing short runs of skirtings ie at small corners around door openings.

 

I was talking about architrave mitres,needing a nail.
Btw I find that a thin bead of expanding foam from a proper gun sticks skirting a lot better than gripfill,and cheaper.

 

also Damo why is gripfilling skirting unaaceptable in your book. I gripfill mine on and they stay on. As far as i am concerned a job that looks good and stays rock solid how ever hard people tug at it is acceptable. To suggest that just because work isnt done your way then its unnaccepteble is a bit arrogant. Just because you decide not to do it doesnt make it wrong. You keep doing what you do and I'll do what i do

 

if i had read your 10.47 reply I wouldnt have been quite so rude apologies

 

No apologies needed GB.
Maybe I did come acrross a bit stern like a bad tempered uncle giving advice.
I need a hol. too much timber twating, long hours no time off for 3 months.... thats what it is.
Still might take that nhs job, you never know.....

 

before you do that get yourself a pack of mitrebond it is fantastic stuff

 

Never thought of using the stuff, dont know why, but will certainly give it a try next time I get a skirting mitre that wont quite close up.
Cheers, Damo.

 

also Damo why is gripfilling skirting unaaceptable in
your book. I gripfill mine on and they stay on. As
far as i am concerned a job that looks good and stays
rock solid how ever hard people tug at it is
acceptable. To suggest that just because work isnt
done your way then its unnaccepteble is a bit
arrogant. Just because you decide not to do it doesnt
make it wrong. You keep doing what you do and I'll do
what i do

Bloody know all if you ask me. Just accept there is more than one approach to a job.

 

also Damo why is gripfilling skirting unaaceptable
in
your book. I gripfill mine on and they stay on. As
far as i am concerned a job that looks good and
stays
rock solid how ever hard people tug at it is
acceptable. To suggest that just because work
isnt
done your way then its unnaccepteble is a bit
arrogant. Just because you decide not to do it
doesnt
make it wrong. You keep doing what you do and I'll
do
what i do

Bloody know all if you ask me. Just accept there is
more than one approach to a job.

 

Hi,

I was wondering what would be the best grab adhesive
for this job, solvent or non solvent? The
plasterboard is new and reasonably straight, and can
you use it for the door architrave or is it easier to
pop some nails in?

Your thoughts would be much appreciated....
thanks in advance
Julian
lay the architrave down on the floor 2 legs and a head, fix with mitre bond, after 10 seconds stand up set and run pva down the back then fix, also pva and nail gun the skirting, this method keeps the skirting/ architrave back tight to wall and no need for any caulk

 

also Damo why is gripfilling skirting
unaaceptable
in
your book. I gripfill mine on and they stay on.
As
far as i am concerned a job that looks good and
stays
rock solid how ever hard people tug at it is
acceptable. To suggest that just because work
isnt
done your way then its unnaccepteble is a bit
arrogant. Just because you decide not to do it
doesnt
make it wrong. You keep doing what you do and
I'll
do
what i do

Bloody know all if you ask me. Just accept there
is
more than one approach to a job.

If you have read the threads properly you would of realised that I had accepted that we all do things differently and apolgised for the comment. I will be the first one to admit that I am not a know it all and I am still learning new things everyday.
You are 6 weeks late in posting a reply and it as already been covered.
Seems a little inapropiate to be dragging something out of nothing after all this time.
Mr Stupid, I raise my glass to you!!!

 

Havent you got anything better to do than stalk me I'm with stupid

 

Havent you got anything better to do than stalk me
I'm with stupid

He stalks a few painters as well.

 

You cannot beat a good stalk!

 

Going to use grip fill myself ....Do you blob it or squiggle????????? Think thats the correct techy term blobs every so often on back of skirt or nice sausagey squiggles?????

Discuss!!

 

i find spots work best (and use less grip-fill), press it against the wall as quickly as possible, otherwise it tends to form a skin, and pin (in the groove if there is one. although you'll have to punch in fully it is a neat way to hide pins). if you pin at a slight angle (alternating angles from one pin to the next, if you know what i mean) it should stick perfectly satisfactorily . using 'mitre-fix' on external mitres makes life easier and neater. scribing one part of an internal corner minimises filler and helps clamp other part against wall. have fun...