Best finish for square butted worktop join?

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by Dave Chapman, Aug 10, 2017.

  1. Dave Chapman

    Dave Chapman New Member

    I'm fitting a kitchen for the first time and have limited funds and tools.

    I'll have worktops in a U shape, square butted to each other (no mitre as the sink drainer prevents it on one side, so will keep both the same)

    Short piece will be the short end wall, with the two long pieces on the long side walls.

    Just need some advice on how best to do the joins as the worktop edge is curved.

    I could jigsaw a small strip out of the long side, equal to the depth of the short side and try to slot in tightly (after pva) then silicone seal, but my jigsaw isn't great and worried about 'drifting' and leaving either a too wide cut or one that's not square upright.

    Any advice VERY gratefully received
  2. If your worktop has a curve on the edge, you can't really butt joint it. To achieve a proper but joint you need 2 perfectly square and straight edges. If you can't router a mitre joint in, your option would be to use jointing strips. They are not great, but they are designed for this scenario. You will never get a good joint with your jigsaw solution. it will be a waste of your time and worktop.
  3. Dave Chapman

    Dave Chapman New Member

    Thank you - will go with the edge strips :)
  4. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Active Member

    It isn't that difficult to cut a proper mitre with a jig and router. You need about min £110 of tools - Titan 1/2" router is £55, cutters ~£25 and a jig which is about £30. Go and buy a cheap bit of worktop - perhaps a bit of damaged from somewhere, watch some you tube and practice cutting masons mitre joints. You'll be SO pleased if you do it properly. Joint strips are OK but very DIY and always trap bits of gunk in the gaps. If you fancy having a go lots more advice here.

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