Best fixing for shower

Discussion in 'Tilers' Talk' started by hezzie, Mar 12, 2013.

  1. hezzie

    hezzie Member

    Just thought I'd do a search to see if I can tile over the emulsion.....good job I checked ;)

    It's not flaking but I think I'll have a go at hot airgunning it to remove it first then if I have to I'll score the paint, I'm glad I found this site. :)
     
  2. Never tile over emulsion.

    The adhesive will reactivate the paint and the tiles will fall off!! (as you seem to have found out)

    Get a 4" paint scraper and remove paint, you will need about a 50% removal of old paint, I go to 90% but I'm a perfectionist (lol)
     
  3. hezzie

    hezzie Member

    Thanks Russ. :)
     
  4. YOu are welcome

    russ

    www.iiplumbing-services-derby.co.uk
     
  5. builderlondonuk

    builderlondonuk New Member

    plywood is ok for showers
    [​IMG]
     
  6. hezzie

    hezzie Member

    Thanks for taking the time to upload that photo B.L.U.K, realistically I should have done that with my airing cupboard which is what you can see on the photo I posted, but it would have cost a lot more, then I'd have the trouble of routing the drain through the floorboards, which would probably involve taking out the bath and we don't have much storage space in the house so we would have lost all those shelves.

    I might do it once we have more storage elsewhere.
     
  7. hezzie

    hezzie Member

    Quick update and another question if you wouldn't mind answering please.

    [​IMG]

    As you can see the aquapanel is up, I've just put primer on ready for the tanking paint stuff (from screwfix's
    mapei waterproofing kit) but I think I might have made a boo boo, I've run Dow Corning 785 silicone seal around the bath edge and in the corner where the wall meets the aquapanel, is this going to stop the waterproof liquid and tape sticking as it should?

    Also, how far down do I go with the tape between the top of the bathtub and the wall (with the tape & liquid) I would have thought to make it totally water proof it should come down the wall and onto the bath top an inch or so but won't that show under the tiles.

    [​IMG]

    Thanks in advance for any replies.
     
  8. Hezzie

    Dont worry too much about getting the boarding "perfectly" water tight

    You are best advised to get the tiling absolutely correct in terms of grouting and siliconing

    If th ewater doesn't penetrate, then the substrate will not get wet!!!!!!

    My advice is on th ebottom row of tiles leave a gap of at least 1mm no more than 3mm, do not grout this joint but squeeze in a layer of silicone so that it fully fills the gap between the underside of tile and top of bath.

    That "gap" full of silicone becomes the waterproofing layer then the smoothing out on top is merely decorative, if you get my drift, the real tricky bit is to do neatly behind the taps and that is not easy even for a professional, but by making sure that the gap is fully filled all you are concentrating on is the finished effect. Therefore if the silicone ever peels away then it doesn't matter, it is not a water path

    BTW too big a gap to fill gets difficult to make sure its watertight, too small and the silicone doesnt go in enough, you just got to make sure the final tile tile is cut just right

    have fun m8

    Russ

    www.iiplumbing-services-derby.co.uk
     
  9. hezzie

    hezzie Member

    Cheers Russ.

    Do you know if the silicone will cause a problem with waterproof paint/tape by any chance?

    I've levelled the bath (eventually) can I tile straight off the bath towards the ceiling now it's straight or would I be better off taking it from a line drawn from my handy tripod laser level?

    [​IMG]
     
  10. hezzie

    hezzie Member

    Can anyone give me an idea of what a tiler would charge for the labour to do the tiling?

    I'd like the 2 walls (aquapanel & side plastered pictured in the photos previously) fully tiled, 18 inch or so by the taps (because there's a window there) and the window sill.

    One of my customers gave me a rough idea without seeing it of £400 which I thought was expensive, hence the reason I'm doing it myself.

    (Photos below from Topps Tiles)[/b]

    I'm thinking of the small white oblong tiles (30cm x 10cm)[​IMG] (I always think they look like the tiles on victorian public toilets)

    or plain white tiles 20cm x 25cm.

    [​IMG]

    Appromimately 5 square metres altogether.

    Thanks.
     
  11. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Supply and fit or just fit?
     
  12. hezzie

    hezzie Member

    [​IMG]

    Why you no broody risten?

    Labour costs, so just the cost to fit please.

    Cheers.
     
  13. hezzie

    hezzie Member

    Well the tape and waterproof paint seems to have stuck to the silicone ok, so I'm nearly ready for tiling.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. hezzie

    hezzie Member

    Ok, we've decided on these tiles from topps: white metro tiles

    [​IMG]

    Will I need to use a flexible addy due to the 18mm ply at the back of the Aquaboard or will Bal whitestar be ok.

    On that note, as a novice am I better using a readymix or should I go for a cement powder, I've got approx 5 square metres to do. I know you all recommend Bal, Mapai or Ardex but if White star is not suitable could you recommend a suitable cement addy, ideally from screwfix or Topps and could you also tell me which white grout to use also please.
    The lady at Topps was trying to get me to use their branded stuff saying all the trade use it but I'd rather use the stuff the good folks on here use regularly.

    Thanks in advance.
     
  15. hezzie

    hezzie Member

    All sorted, I've visited topps tiles today and got everything I needed.....with a handy discount.

    Thanks for all your help guys, much appreciated.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. tictic

    tictic New Member

    just make sure you have got the correct size off tile trim....
    when you cut your half tile at the edge off the work top..the tile won't have a beveled edge...it will be thicker in the middle off the tile..
     
  17. tictic

    tictic New Member

    ps...topps(the yellow peril)...are rip off merchants...mate...next time use an independent ..;)
     
  18. hezzie

    hezzie Member

    RE: ........just make sure you have got the correct size off tile trim....
    when you cut your half tile at the edge off the work top..the tile won't have a beveled edge...it will be thicker in the middle off the tile..

    Oh yeah, so it will now I think about it, fortunately the only thing I haven't bought the trim yet, cheers tic tic
     
  19. hezzie

    hezzie Member

    Well I got them to match the price of some nearly identical tiles at a price of £18 rather than the £24 they wanted x's 6 boxes = £36 saving and the only adhesives and grouts I could find locally were Al Murad's own brand, so I didn't have much of an option unfortunately, but I did get 28% off the price of those too.

    I ended up getting Topps Tiles own brand cement adhesive as the general opinion on the forum seemed to be that the cement stuff was the best and nobody suggested anything specific to my question so I ended up going with what the chap in the shop said.

    Thanks for the reply Tictic.
     
  20. jason527

    jason527 New Member

    Hmm great work, i like because the tiles are looking very cleaned and installed prefectly. I guess you are expert in all this tile working. Thanks for sharing the photos of your work. I like all of it.

    *

    Message was edited by: Screwfix Peter
     

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