I prefer to cut out the plasterboard and block out with timber. You don't have to do too much of this on long runs with these hanging rails: http://www.diy-kitchens.com/shopexd.asp?id=276
On Dot & Dab you can't beat using plastic Frame Fixers such as These, they also act as a spacer between the wall and the plasterboard if you don't rawp them up too much. If the wall is thermolite then the above is about the only fixing outside of resin bonding that will grip securely.
Marko, use the fixings recommended by sinewave to hold the rails suggested by the original nelly. (I do love to tie up loose threads... ) Basically, I wouldn't suggest anything that relies on the plasterboard itself - that's just mickey mousy pants.
LOL, i gave the Marko the solution 3 posts ago still there will always be leaders! and there will always be followers...
I think bluey you'll find I recomended those Hanging Rails for Wall units some years ago. I'd post U a link to the thread but the 'Search' facility seems to be permantly fecked on ere. Oh and Fischer make all sorts of wall plugs etc so you need to be specific. Even the standard Frame Fixers are no good in thermalite block they need to be the expanding 'slug' type specificaly used for Plastic Frames!
Sine 1 I never mentioned anything about the hanging rails! 2 the op never said he had thermolite blocks just said it was a D&D wall! 3 was i not specific enough when establishing the make u of the wall! 4 i was commenting more on FADAs post than yours. but no probs sine, i have a thick enough skin not to loose sleep over it LOL
as usual its off on a tangent if on stud/plasterboard walls and there is a run of units the rails are good, get a fixing in the studwork and a few brolly fixing where necessary. if its a single 300mm unit and its inbetween studs the rails are pretty pointless. i have fitted hundreds of wall units on brolly fixings and never had any issues, i used to be intructed on site to hang them on redrivas which i allways thought to be a hash and there still were very few problems with them. mainly boiler boxings that the plumbers pulled of the wall when fitting the boiler (yes the boiler should be in first but on site as a subby your told fit and leave!) dot and dab, fix through to the blockwork if possible, fixings will depend on the type of blockwork. dont overtighten. on them f***g horrible eggbox walls, remove plaster and fit a strip of ply. if i turned up on site and said "right mate i need to cut all of this plaster board out so i can fit wood" i would be off site in 10mins flat.
As I was saying, Marko, use the fixings recommended by blueassedfly! and sinewave to hold the rails suggested by the original nelly and possibly others.