@goldenboy really impressed with that job you did. Well done! On another note, how did you get the wall panelling to stay put while the foam went off? And not owning a foam gun myself... are you able to adjust the foam bead size to suit the timber with them? Otherwise I can imagine it being very messy!
I doubt you'll get a reply I'm afraid as Goldenboy disappeared a few months ago - banned I think but don't know for certain. Edit: Foam guns are adjustable.
Never plug and screw too much work..avoid unnecessary filling and sanding..you cannot bend the skirt line, caulk to it..nothing worse than wavy skirting! Glued on external mitres, scribed internals. Soudal fix all 20 min turbo amazing grab..polymer not silicone. No nonsense caulk, whitest and doesn’t shrink/sag.
@TonicUK Yes you can adjust foam flow right down to a tiny trickle. Also push a mastic tube nozzle on the end for even finer line of foam. B&Q sell plastic gun at the DIY fillers for £7 ISH but I buy the metal diall in trade section for £11. Bargain. Any foam will work. I buy cheapest. When I'm in a hurry with thing's like dado I use upol 2 pack along with foam as set's in minutes, so I can carry on without worry of slipping. Big 3.5l tins of 2 pack are £25 from Dec centres or car body shops. Use decorating wipes to clean off foam and have a tin of foam eater handy. Dec wipes will remove 2 pack resin as well if it hasn't set I discovered. Keep tools clean. 50mm masking is useful to protect any surface from foam if needed. Spray water to dry plaster or masonry prior to foam as the water helps the stick.
Thanks for the response!! Sitting outside my local b&q as we speak haha. I'm all up for a positive change in tradition ways of working! I use ronseal 2 part filler for quick adhesion. Cheap and easy to work with! But what about holding the wall panelling in place while the foam sets? Will have to buy a water sprayer too!
Water sprayer £1 or less. Wall panels can just prop up for 15 mins. They use foam for plasterboard now.
Just to extend a thanks to the expanding foam recommendation, didn't want to use screws as eventually they show even with 2 part filler and gripfill is a pain to work with. Did some tests and found only using thin beads it's absolutely solid. Very easy to control with a gun and like the idea if I even need to get the skirting off I can slide a blade behind. Would it be suitable for coving if I pinned it until it cures?
Yes, but it may not give as much leeway for packing the coving out to suit wonky walls or ceilings if required that adhesive would.
I have checked all the conversation that you guys are doing above that is too interesting and I am completely agree with @Jord86 that it may not give as much leeway for packing the coving out to suit wonky walls.
Coving..hum.. I've used a mastic nozzle on the end of form gun to apply foam to existing coving to make good if loose. Not always totally happy with the result but it's possible to fix cove I think. How practical it is I don't know. If you do let us know how it goes...
Interesting thread! I was wondering whether people are using adhesives to join the skirting together at the corners? and whether i can get away with just using foam or whether to use screws as well? Do people use Soudall foam for this job? Is there a special type that dosnt expand too much that is preferable? Any advice would be great! Lastly, would you do architrave in the same way? Picture of the walls attached for some context.. I like the idea, just worried about the grip. If people have had good luck with just foam, i'd be inclined to buy fgloss finished skirts rather than primed and gloss them myself if i wont need too cover screw/nail holes!
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01CYGFW5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9tRpFbN3Z4KMK I use dry flex with the primer but this iis better for smaller jobs as you don't need the primer, but you get half the amount for the money to fill joins. So foam to stick and resin for joins...
don't buy full gloss - you still have to caulk the top when you decorate. Better just to get primed. If it is an older house, consider using plinth blocks for the transition from skirt to arch. Can look nice.
Finishing off the skirting in my porch after tiling and just used what I had to hand, a tube of "supercove" water based adhesive\filler I had been using for something else. Just used the same stuff to fill the gaps as the plasterboard walls were wavy, mentioned by jord86. I didn't want to pull the skirting in to the wall with screws as IMO it is easier to hide the gap than to have bent skirting. I was also able to paint the skirting prior and then not bother about filling the holes after fitting.
Lovely job. Nice to see some bold colours and style rather than the usual “keep it plain, sell it for gain” decor.
Might be a silly question or something I’m missing... On a particularly wonky wall where there’s maybe 4-5mm gap between the skirting and wall; how do you finish the top of the expanding foam? Cut and caulk? Fill and paint? TIA
I can't be doing with this minimalism\skandi design malarkey. Give me good old high Victorian or Regency\Georgian every time, proper English design.
Sorry, What do you mean by full floss? How does it stop the caulking? Can anyone confirm a good foam to use? Link anyone?