Using vinegar at the mo which seems to be working a treat, just wondered if anyone else had some top tips since Tom's too busy trying to blow himself up
You should try using them now and again :^O wd 40's good though or just wire wool and a bit of engine oil.
Cheeky * Apprentices that don't dry them off (or occasionally me on a Friday...). The vinegar is eating it a treat thanks, esp the rollers on the pipeslices. [Edited by: admin]
Just leave the tools over night in diesel, this will unseize them and keep em lubricated. Just like the wife
I usually strip the pipe slices down every now and then and put em in mini cauldron with bit of engine oil,heat the oil up it cleans and lubricates them perfect cleaning all the old flux and carp out of them too This the best method i have found by far,the hot engine oil acts as degreaser and cleanser
Now let me see; at £14 a pop & I charge £50/hour, I aint gonna waste my valuable time fa..ying around cleaning a pipe slice, I'd put it in the bin overnight & buy a new one!!! http://www.screwfix.com/prods/43156/Hand-Tools/Plumbing-Tools/Pipe-Cutters/Monument-Tools-Autocut-22mm
fifty quid mate your underselling yourself,as for my pipe slice,i use to do that until you realise how many of the damn things you end up buying,it takes few minutes to clean out your tools and as good practise should be done,with all of them not just slices Not replace it just because the flux and gunk has made it a little tight There you go dick,you hunting around pound shops for chemical dousers and then buying pipe slices at drop of hot,you jocks are full of contridictions!!!
Penny wise & Pound foolish T!!! These garden spray pumps are a bargain for putting inhibitor in rads!!!
Have to agree dick, wish I'd thought of them before I coughed up for the kamco one a few years ago. Though a rad valve tail with a few inches of hose and a funnel stuck in the end is hard to beat if the rads empty.
Well my 13p Sainsburys vinegar works a treat - soak for a few hours, a quick wipe with wire wool and good as new. I do find a lot of tools get surface rust because of contact with water, and I'm not going to chuck out a set of Roth pumps just because of a bit of rust WD40 is great at preventing rust, but not so good at removing it. I'd say a rusty/gunky pipeslice is a sign of lots of use, not no use
This one should be in one of Tom's top tips, but I'll share it here & square it with Tom down the Lodge later. To remove a radiator without draining, shut off TRV & fit cap - to ensure complete isolation. Completely close LS valve, fit said empty garden spray pump onto radiator. Open LS valve, pump until you hear the last dregs of water passing out of the LS valve. Close LS valve, disconnect radiator with care, with cat litter tray & old towels to hand.............Job done!! Excess water will end up in F&E tank(open systems) or out the PRV if the system goes above 3Bar(sealed system).
I bought a Fernox pumper - even more expensive than the Kamco (OUCH!!). Still, paid for itself in a few weeks. Filling loop or drain off is my preference.
when i was asking about where to fit the pump on the rad, i was meaning where on the rad were you supposed to attach the pump! i'm guessing it's at the top of the rad and you suck (the pump - not the plumber) the contents from the rad. it's only when you pose a qusetion and then look at it again that you can see the obvious!!! i was thinking that the pump was supposed to be attached somewhere between the valves and the rad - which we know is an impossibility without undoing the valves first, thus, defeating the object!!!! there was me thinking that being dropped as a baby had no long term effects!!!
Open LS valve, pump until you hear the last dregs of water passing out of the LS valve...........What bit of 'PUMP until you hear' did you not understand?? No where does it say SUCK, that may just be your twisted mind??