Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Coops666, Mar 11, 2019.
Instead of using glue , anyone used general purpose silicone ( not floating floor )
The use of tongue and groove timber flooring provided a solid floor that was allowed to move with the changing seasons and differing humidity levels and still remain solid. It also allowed for thinner boards on wider joist spacings. This was all before the days of central heating and fitted carpets.
If you're going to glue every length of timber floorboard together you may as well use a T&G sheet material (but don't tell Dobbie).
MOST squeeky floors are caused by the floors (timber or man made sheet goods) being fitted during construction when relative humidity is higher and before the building has been heated and fully dried out at which point some minor shrinkage occurs pulling the timber away from the fixing (usually nails), sideways and downwards, sufficient for the board to move against the fixing when it is walked on. It can then get worse because the flexing of the looser board starts to loosen the nails.
I have had great success curing noisy floors with Spax flooring screws and although they are expensive, they work, the client is paying anyway and like CGN's friends, they think it's money well spent. I've only ever used glue on the joints of sheet flooring.
Very true, this is a confusing post!
Sorry weve gone off subject i think thats where it has gone confusing. My original question was how to get T&G up.
I am replacing with chipboard T&G Flooring CaberFloor P5
Going to confuse people even more now.....
If I`m replacing certain sections of a floor when I buy the new T&G chipboard flooring, I`m reading you can get 2 types. ....Tongue on the left or Tongue on the right and I need to buy the correct boarding to fit into the original panels that are left ...is this correct?
You could try running an circular saw along the join of the T&G, be careful to set the depth of the saw too deep or you could cut into pipework or cables. This will break the T&G on the first board. Once the first one is out you will get access to the joist and should be able to use a crowbar or claw hammer to ease the rest up
T&G boards are secret nailed through the tounge. Somebody must have face nailed them for you to have extracted them. If you set a circular saw to just less than the thickness of the boards, you could nail a straight batten to the floor as a guide. Measure the distance between the edge of the blade and edge of baseplate for the distance of the batten. The batten doesn't have to be the length of the room, 2mtrs should be ok. You can then saw through the tounge and once the first ones up the rest will come up easily - unless the go under the skirting. If they do, saw a few boards as close to the skirting as possible to remove them, then twist the remaining boards to free them.
Separate names with a comma.