Standard melmine/chipboard kitchen worktop, cutting out new area for free standing cooker from existing built in gas hob. Masking tape top, fine toothed jigsaw blade?
As above but if you dont have a plunge saw or router....... Jigsaw with blade that cuts on down-stroke...pendulum action to zero...push down hard on saw so it doesnt jump upwards...tape the worktop to protect it from jigsaw foot...high blade speed...slow forward movement...finish with sharp plane or sandpaper depending on how well you can cut a straight line.
If your going to follow "dryliner essex" advice may i offer a few suggestions. safety trowsers,face mask and ear defenders. also its important to make sure the blade is cutting thru the face of the laminate on the down stroke. if cutting in situ you will need to keep the engine of the saw down low with the blade up near your face. oh try neeling is best. if the saw kicks back it may be best to rev it up real hard before you proceed. if you cant cut right up to the wall for fear of going thru it you can finish the last part of the cut with an axe. last but not least, please take care as this is a difficult job to to well. hope this helps.
If its in situ, I'd be interested to learn how to cut the worktop right back to the wall with any of the above. The worktop really needs to come out. Once out it can be easily cut with a decent hand saw and then preferably skim over the edge with the router to get a good enough edge to apply edging.
if you have one or know how to use one,cut as much as possible with a router, just remeber that the right hand side of the rotation WILL CAUSE BREAKOUT!( have some one with a hoover nozzle following you to catch majority of dust), this will get you to within 3 inches of the wall, then use a NEW handsaw (my prefernce is 12tpi) to cut the last few inches! heres the tedious bit! 80grit paper on a block to take off the high spots, then go over with 120 grit and finally pass over the whole edge with 240, this will give you a good enough finish to edge off in laminate trim
capn, HANDYPANDY said "The worktop really needs to come out. Once out it can be easily cut with a decent hand saw and then preferably skim over the edge with the router <u>to get a good enough edge to apply edging</u>." im just letting him know it doesnt HAVE to come out, But a jiggy and a fien will not give you a finish good enough for edging!
Crikey cordless....240grit seems a bit far ..120 at a push maybe but surely 240 will clog instantly what with all the glue in a laminate/chipboard top.
Crikey. Just get on top of it(yes, sit on the worktop), use a sharp handsaw. You can get right up to the wall(and if it's under tiles at the back, break it off and chisel it clean. If you want, you can screw a straight bit of 2" x 2" to the waste side on your cut line as a guide, and then maybe you'll just have to smooth it to get a good finish. Have ya done it yet ? Mr. Handyandy - really
The OP was asking the 'best way', I suppose you could define 'best' as: easiest-quickest-cheapest etc. I agree that my way would be a bit long winded, especially as one side would have to be flipped over for the router. I'd also probably go with the dreaded metal edges if its a 600 cooker in a 600 gap.
With a freestanding cooker its best to fit aluminium edges anyway so as long as the cut is half decent the edge will be covered. as handy says though... havent you done it yet. just get the hand saw out.
Apologies to mr handyandy !! I should have had a better look around before I registered the name. Its just I've had the nickname for about 50 yrs and have used it on other forums for years, so its kind of second nature.