Best way to cut mdf

Discussion in 'Tool Talk' started by Jimmer, Apr 10, 2019.

  1. Jimmer

    Jimmer New Member

    So it's the same saw just £40 off?
     
  2. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    2 ah is a bit on the low side for a circular saw but would just mean constant swapping off batteries
    you can get a dewalt 4ah battery for between £42-48 by shopping around
    the good thing about li-ions over older batteries is you can charge the battery at any time regardless off the batteries level or state off charge
     
  3. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Screwfix Select

    Is that an electric or hand jigsaw? A jigsaw is a tool designed to make non-straight cuts.
     
  4. Jimmer

    Jimmer New Member

    So completely off topic now, thought I'd just add to this rather than start a new thread.

    After watching some YouTube videos I think I'm inclined to get the track saw it just seems so versatile and precise. But what is the solution if I need to mitre a joint? Is that just as simple as setting my track up on a 45 degree line?
     
  5. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    I'm not splitting hairs but I actually find my 18v circular more 'versatile' than my track saw because I can do more with it more easily such as ripping down some 3x2 or cutting a slightly wavy line as well as reducing sheet goods using home made tracks BUT the track saw provides such a degree of accuracy and quality of cut (for hand tools at least) that it is my go to tool to cut a straight line especially as there's no dust extraction on my cordless.
    Regarding mitre cutting..... A track saw will cut straight along the line of the splinter guard wherever you put it on your workpiece - at whatever angle you place the track across it. You may have simply watched videos that extol the accuracy of 90° cutting using an MFT or similar set up. It will also cut a straight line along the track if you tilt the blade so you can cut a bevel as well - beyond 45° on some saws.

    Just remember which side of the line you wanted to cut when you place the track as what you can see when the track is down is the waste (or make an allowance for the with of the blade).

    I hope this helps.
     
  6. ajohn

    ajohn Screwfix Select

    Some B&Q stores will cut sheets into strips. I did that for some workshop shelves as too many cuts to make it worth doing myself. They use a large panel saw so results are pretty decent.

    I've also cut sheets up myself. While a track saw is ideal the same thing can be done with a straight edge and any old saw. Just clamp the straight edge to the sheet and position with a tape measure. You will need to measure the blade offset from the edge of the base of the saw to the blade and account for that. The sheets will have pretty straight edges so easy to do.

    You could also buy 2 lengths of track and use that as a straight edge with any saw. The problem with straight edges is that an 8ft one for instance will be a touch shorter than the sheets, only a problem if you need to cut that way but still possible. You should use the square side of the straight edge and not the feather edge as a guide. With a bit of care it's possible to work to 1mm this way.

    If you do use a track saw or a straight edge something else is needed. Clamps and laths as they are cheap pieces of timber but any odd pieces will do providing they are long enough. If you want to cut a strip off clamp these across the cut at each end and set the saw so that it just cuts into them. Saves worrying about and trying to support pieces that are being cut off.

    A length of timber can also be used as a straight edge - if wicks etc check it by eye and against the floor but the stuff will be likely to warp.

    Saw. Frankly I would buy a mains powered one. No point in sacfrificing quality to get something cheap with a battery in it.

    Tracks for a track saw. I have seen mention of 2 Triton ones that had problems. One could be fixed by filing the ends square or taking it back. The other looked like a take it back for a replacement. Best deal in this line is likely to be a package that includes 2 tracks, joiners and clamps and a saw. They all seem to be plunge saws - flavour of the month so tend to be more expensive than ordinary ones.

    Support - 2 cheap workmates. Likely to need to clamp the sheets to one of them.

    Or as an alternative solution - maybe a better one for the OP.

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/titan-ttb674tas-254mm-table-saw-230-240v/9486j

    An example there are lots about. 2year guarantee on that one though. I've used something vaguely similar that didn't come with a stand and it was ok, a B&Q thingy, years ago. One problem is that the designers tend to make them look like far more expensive heavily built stuff. The fence on that one for instance is a joke. Easily fixed, fasten a strip of timber to it that is a say 200mm longer than the table. When used the clamp it comes with should be fine but also clamp it on the other end of the table. The cross cut protractor will need extending the same way as well. Should have holes in it for that but probably wont have them. It may take some fiddling to get the side tables level with the main table. The angle scale may not be that accurate so set with a combination square. The 300mm Bahco one is worth the extra on those, stainless from screwfix and the rule can be used to check the side table is level. That item is a buy once. When cutting large sheets there may be a need to fasten it to to floor. It does look a decent size though. Alternatively the base could be extended by fastening strips of timber to the legs ;) clamps maybe if no holes.

    A roller stand can be very useful for supporting work as it come out, Usually too much of a nuisance feeding in.

    John
    -
     
    Last edited: Apr 24, 2019

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