Best way to patch these holes

Discussion in 'Other Trades Talk' started by markh1, May 1, 2021.

  1. markh1

    markh1 Member

    Ive recently had to re do 4 radiators after a plumber botched the job and left me with leaking pipes and basically just melted pushfit to the copper, was loads of issues and he wouldn’t come back and fix the work. Anyway I had to open up the wall more to get to cut good pipe and re pipe everything. I took the advice on this forum to add a reducer and do the runs in 15mm copper instead of 10mm.

    Anyway, I now have 8 holes in the wall and want to see any ideas on how best to make good the walls. I can’t just patch with plasterboard as in some places I only have about 6mm clearance to the wall from the 15mm pipe fixings as I didn’t want to start channelling out concrete block to bury the pipes more. My idea is to screw some short wood pieces in the places I can get behind the plasterboard to create a lip to secure some plywood so this sits slightly below the surface and then plaster skim over the plywood but is this possible?

    It’s dot and dab plasterboard 10cm board over concrete block cavity is around 2cm but can be as more on the other walls. I’ve added a photo (should be vertical) so you can see what I mean the others are similar generally long rectangle cut outs. Generally 8-12cm wide by 30cm high.

    I know you can buy mesh patches and skim over the patch but I would have to feather it out quite a bit so it doesn’t look like a lump on the wall hence the preference to have something slightly under the surface and skim to bring level- hopefully something that doesn’t keep cracking.

    Any solutions appreciated, thanks.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Wayners

    Wayners Screwfix Select

    Put a few screws in to act at stops ( packers) you need to cover the copper pipe with some pipe insulation if you have enough depth? Can always cut it thinner and use zip ties to hold.
    Lash all the edges of board with Pva 3-1.

    Cut plasterboard to the fit by first making template from card or thick paper.

    Cut plasterboard to fit and seal the new board edges with Pva. Allow a couple of hours for all pva to harden.

    Dot and dab new board in but only apply adhesive around the edges Inc blocks. Keep adhesive away from pipe. Damp sponge any over spill and you need the board to sit 1-2mm back resting on screw heads. Allow to dry.
    Skim over with straight edge using easyfill or plaster.
    I don't think you need to tape around the joint edges as will dry solid as one. Up to you but I would not bother. Assuming you lashed on enough pva it will not shrink or crack.
    Id use cove adhesive (gyproc) and only that one from B&Q and second choice would be board adhesive and any brand will do to stick board. Will take a week to dry.

    After filling and sanding apply acrylic primer undercoat. Snag fill. Spot prime and paint. Put feet up


    If you want to tape (mesh or fiber fuse) use tungsten scraper around edge on existing plaster wall to take off 2mm so mech sits below original surface so you don't get a bump. Pva then tape. All easy enough tbh. Looks harder job than it is.

    All the above do in stages so it sets. Don't rush
     
    Last edited: May 1, 2021
  3. Astramax

    Astramax Super Member

    I would do it in a very similar way as Wayners has suggested until I read you have only 6mm clearance. Think about letting in a stainless mesh and plastering over to flush.
     
  4. markh1

    markh1 Member

    Thanks Wayners but in a freeware areas I dint have the depth for plasterboard maybe not even 8mm board as the copper fixings in 15mm wheats was all microbire before, could I just dig out the back of the board so it indents around anything protruding.
     
  5. Wayners

    Wayners Screwfix Select

  6. Looks like 10 or 12mm upto 15mm, easiest way of doing it and you get better looking tails poking through wall
     
  7. markh1

    markh1 Member

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