Box shelves plasterboard niche

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by tore81, Oct 12, 2018.

  1. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    Hi all

    I'm looking to build some shelves but with plasterboard finish. I supose they would be called niches all plasterboard look clean finish.

    Just where you have say three squares eitherside of chimney with sky, wifi with no cables and show.

    I'm Wandaring the easiest way and professional look to go about this.

    I was first of all think plastboard back sided then front but slot of messing about and stud work isn't always straight.

    Am I right in thinking Build the frame to take ready made boxes out of Ply then plaster board and fix to frame work studs, the PB face.

    How would you guys go about this! I like the Ply/MDF box idea as easier to keep it nice and square any thought?

    Thanks
     
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Why the plasterboard, just skim the plywood box with suitable plaster.
     
  3. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    Just do them out of MDF and paint them?
     
    Allsorts and AlvyChippy like this.
  4. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    I want it to like a wall! That type of thing but either side of chimney
     

    Attached Files:

  5. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    I have Never skimmed over ply before, what is the best to use. I was thinking of facing it then with PB and using cornerbeads for sleek look
     
  6. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Studwork, boxes, either will work. Line boxes with PB then skim.
     
  7. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    Think this is being over complicated.

    Just make them out of 18mm MDF.

    No need for studwork or plasterboard or skimming.

    Will look exactly the same when painted.
     
    GoodwithWood, Allsorts and AlvyChippy like this.
  8. Cecilb70

    Cecilb70 Active Member

    Ive done this professionally many times.three boxes made from anything I use ply 18mm and 12mm. Cls to make a frame with adjustable feet boxes screwed into frame. Place in situ level and screw to floor. Brace to walls. Mr mdf front 6mm stapled to the framing. Then drill a 25mm hole and trim to the boxes using a bearing guided router cutter( leave the corners round). My big finale is b and sell colour/dimming led lights with a remote one of them in each box. £1000 Everytime
     
    WillyEckerslike and tore81 like this.
  9. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select


    Exactly what I'm trying to achieve.

    Where do I get mr mdf? Staples to studs?

    Why adjustable feet? Not sure I'll need that my plan is to move boxes and screw through the side into Cls and use a battin on to exsisting wall to sit on to which will be sting enough.

    for the front and what about joints will show where top boards meet or you saying I plant ok full board on and router up.

    That sounds a nice job mate
     
  10. Cecilb70

    Cecilb70 Active Member

    Normal mdf is ok but a bit fluffier . Staple to your framing(surrounding the boxes.) Making these in the workshop Inc wiring lights is much quicker and faster. Adjustable feet mean if your carcase is square then perfect level shelves very easy.
     
  11. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    What size mdf to staple on? To router out I mean?

    Also boards width for mdf are 1200 as u know so I may need to add a strip on as wall is just over.

    Do you mean just make the boxes in the warehouse. Then fit then mdf the face in situ.





    Not sure legs will be 270mm plus I'll be using more material but I guess it will be a lot easier. Although I was thinking of lazering across

    Thankyou for replies
     
  12. Cecilb70

    Cecilb70 Active Member

    The thinnest mdf you can get away with. 6mm.
    Not sure what the 270mm means. 1220 is a normal width. I usually use 1 piece. But it's possible to use 2.
     
  13. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    I need it 270 mm up from floor to create the even look.

    Obviously if your making a frame how much shorter are you leaving the frame from ceiling height. As when I lift frame to fit will hit the ceiling.

    The first box needs to sit at 270mm off the floor adjustable feet are 150mm
     

    Attached Files:

  14. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    Because my wall is 1260. I will have to put a 40mm strip in.


    With using 6mm planted on surely you may see this join.

    Or should I use 12mm screwed on fill holes with 2 part filler and joint.


    Thankyou for any replies
     
  15. Cecilb70

    Cecilb70 Active Member

    Whichever you feel will work. I use tee nuts and threaded feet.
    Put the join on a piece of timber( at the back) or pack one wall out 40 mm.
     
  16. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select


    With facing it with 6mm ply, are you then using a nail gun? If so what nail gun as I may need to get one Only have an electric stapler. Take it then filling holes after with 2 part?


    I may be between off going for 18mm face ply and drywall screws. Countersinking holes filling later

    More cost effect surely the holes won't be visible after painting

    Thankyou for reply
     
  17. fostyrob

    fostyrob Screwfix Select

    If you don't have a nail gun why not just use a hammer with lost head nails? Much less to make good than covering drywall screw heads.
     
  18. Cecilb70

    Cecilb70 Active Member

    18mm and screws is clumsy and also you can't really Pierce and trim. I use 18g narrow crown Staples. You could use 18g Brad's. Use plenty otherwise you may have a rattler.
     
  19. mr moose

    mr moose Screwfix Select

    Can you give us a photo?
     
  20. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    A photo would be helpful



    I've only got a Stanley electrical stapler, I don't think this will be man enough to drive the brads home. What nailer are you using?
     

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