Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by GBE, Dec 4, 2018.
Them push fit connectors ain't cheap you know.
obviously not that's why they have used second hand ones
Yes I agree that there’s nothing wrong in mixing the two although I much prefer copper, one problem being a lot of happy amateurs would install plastic over copper, difficult to tell if the plastic install is has it should be, has liners been fitted, have ends of the plastic been cut so as no sharp edges, perhaps some of the o rings damaged on installation, has the plastic been fully inserted to the stop in the fitting, not sure if plastic is fully rodent proof,
If the system is in copper and you see neatly soldered fitting you can be reasonably sure the plumber knows what he/she is doing, I would not want to see any micro bore either, 22mm 15mm is ok, if the system doesn’t leak on test it will more than likely stay that way.
Knew it was going to be BG who did the install.
They also gave me a quote a few years back, and comparing to other quotes they were nearly double the price.
I see on the other sheet there is a price breakdown?
Just under £6.5k for the work is way too much, but afraid not much you can do, other than get them to sort out the faulty radiator.
Well, D'uh - if any plumbing is done incorrectly then it's an issue. Missed-out sleeves? Pipe not pushed in fully? Badly cut pipe ends? That's just carelessness or incompetence, not an issue with the materials.
But you can tell if every yorkie is perfect just by looking at the ring of solder? You can tell it's fully clean internally? And that the pipe has been pushed in a goodly amount?
There are pros and cons for each system and these have been fully covered a few times on this forum. Then there are personal preferences, and that's fair enough too - until you get a fragile-ego'd plumber who'll refuse to use plastic 'cos it's 'beneath' them, they are such a pro; "Me? Wouldn't be seen dead, pal" - and will then happily cut 2" deep notches out of all your joists.
Ok ok have it your way (happy amatuer) I’ve just found this in the Mail online
I prefer this myself, but everyone to their own
Yes, neat pipe work always looks better.
I would say it works out as £1k for the boiler, £500 for materials, £1500 for labour - £3k for "peace of mind".
You get what you pay for after all!
The "peace of mind" is so that you can be sure you won't get a lash up job done by a get rich quick merchant who just wants to get in, take your money and get out.
This price is a nasty explotation of the elderly by BG.
Younger folk with the energy to get multiple quotes and check the internet will never buy from them for the reasons apparent in this post.
Their customers are largely older folk who still know them as "the gas board" and may be under the impression that they are the only people legally allowed to do gas work, as once was the case. Terrible.
Look, I was rushed.
That is clearly (a) hellish and (b) unacceptable.
I'm curious about how many man hours you received for your 6K ?
I live in a combi problem house and some friends recently had the heating replaced in a similar property. Too many taps and baths. Several quotes and only a couple suggested remaining on a tank. They did use a Rayburn that had been in for a long time updated because they wanted to move. They also probably wisely used some one who didn't mind them getting the boiler themselves.
While more qualifications are needed now to do this work so prices go up it sounds like things haven't changed. I wonder how many use a jug to get some idea what rate cold can come in at and what the existing hot water gives. That way they have some idea of what is needed. An old style gas board quoted on what we have installed here and wanted to fit a huge combi, fortunately I was already aware of how long it took hot water to actually arrive at a tap so in the end selected the lot myself also radiator sizing.
Afraid having installed some plastic pipe for hot water recently I'd use it by choice for that. HP hot water so 15mm is ok but I assume larger sizes are available. Heating, copper I think as the distributed heat given off is doing useful work.
I'm afraid the number of man-hours taken is largely irrelevant, tho' would be interesting; GBE got a quote for the work from what he presumed would be the best installers and accepted it. End of. As long as they get his system working as it should, it's job done.
You do raise a very good point about the pros and cons of each system type, tho' - it does look as tho' many folk undertake such a system change (usually to a combi) without being fully aware of the 'cons' as well as the definite 'pros' (I have a combi in a 3-bed, 3-bathroom house - no concerns, works a treat - just don't run two hot taps as a time...). I have, tho', seen a few threads on here with folk saying they've just had a combi fitted and wonder if it's faulty as they can only run one hot tap at a time. Pretty clear they didn't have the system explained to them beforehand. No idea how they took the news from us that "It's just the way they are..."
There's another current thread on here about a system leak on a new install, and part of the incidental info provided mentioned that their mains pressure is only just about 1 bar - on a combi install in a ultimately 3-storey house.
We have a sort of combi with the same tap problem but made worse by bedroom sinks and badly thought out old pipe work. The house did have tanks, huge ones but they were removed a long time before we moved in and instantaneous under sink hot water heaters added, 2 actually. Economy 7 heating which was pretty expensive to run. We fitted a worcester hi flow. They use a small heat store that indirectly heats the hot water. A bath can be run every 3 - 4 mins but the water never runs cold. The main problem was no hot water out of other taps when a bath was run. Also a cold tap might interfere with flow as well. It produces scalding hot water and after replumbing the kitchen it got there a lot lot quicker so I fitted a TMV and also a pressure regulator. Took the cold water feed directly to the boiler and the TMV and then ran all of the cold water through a pressure reducing valve. It's worked out pretty well. If my wife is running a bath and I want to wash in the bedroom sink low flow but ok for a wash. I haven't heard any complaints about taps being turned on while some one is having a shower and it isn't a thermostatic shower. One reason for going for the hi flow was my wife uses a lot of hot water also thinking one day we will retire and use it a lot more often ;-) we have and yep we do. They were very popular boilers in pubs and commercial premisses where hot water was required regularly in various quantities. Having to wait a few mins between running a bath isn't much of a problem. Bath fill rates have hardly changed.
Installing with 1bar - I'd have thought that flow out of a tap or knowledge of local conditions would indicate that and suggest what should be fitted.
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