Bricking up Garage door

Discussion in 'Getting Started FAQ' started by Dkamc7, Oct 3, 2018.

  1. Dkamc7

    Dkamc7 New Member

    I am in the middle or a garage conversion and I am looking at bricking up the garage door way, no window. I have had building control round, and there are a couple of ways I can do it such as outer leaf brickwork stud inside, or a cavity wall. BC aren't overly concerned with any damp issue etc as the garage door area is quite sheltered by the house / garage roof overhang. Basically left it to my preference / risk.

    My question is if I want to do it it in a typical cavity wall manner, i.e outer leaf in brick to match existing, 100mm cavity with insulation, inner leaf of solid dense block. Can I just wall tie into the pier at either side? As in, anyone foresee much issue with damp transferring through the solid pier to the internal at either end. Piers are about 325mm thick/deep, and i presume solid.

    Also a timber beam supporting the garage roof sits across the doorway, resting on the piers, hence I want try and avoid propping the beam and rebuilding the piers to open up a cavity. Any advice / experience would be much appreciated. Oh, and internal wall will be dot and dabbed, or battened and plaster boarded. Space will be new kitchen area.
     
  2. Isitreally

    Isitreally Well-Known Member

    You have two options on face work.

    1. Tooth out existing brickwork so new work ties in and looks as one.

    2. Set new brickwork back 25/30mm so it looks more like a panel of brickwork.

    Doing a straight joint flush with existing just looks a total bodge done by somebody without a clue.

    Inner blocks inline with pier so when plasterboarding its easier to keep it all flush.
     
  3. Dkamc7

    Dkamc7 New Member

    Thanks, that is the sort of detail I have been looking at.

    Ok just butting up to the piers and tying into them would you say? Instead of removing the pier to attach the new cavity to the existing house cavity. (Don't want to turn a simple job into a big one if not necessary). I have attached a crude sketch, not to scale. Both wall thicknesses should be the same. My preferred option is option B as I labelled it. Simpler and faster. Jut a small minor weak spot for damp. (Theoretical weak spot as in reality it is very dry in that area, there just would be a worst case scenario a continuous route for damp through the pier at either end).
     

    Attached Files:

  4. Isitreally

    Isitreally Well-Known Member

    I would go down the option B route personally.
     

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