Building a level brick wall on a sloping concrete pad?

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by DaveSh99, Dec 1, 2019 at 5:31 PM.

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  1. DaveSh99

    DaveSh99 New Member

    Hi

    I am hoping to build a 5 x 4 metre timber frame shed on an existing concrete pad. Unfortunately whomever originally laid the concrete pad didn't do a very good job. Water can gather because it is lower than the surrounding land in places. In order to keep the timber out of any gathering water I was planning to lay 2 courses of engineering bricks with a DPC on top to support the timber frame. Unfortunately I have discovered that the concrete pad is not level and slopes by about 12cm over the 5m length of one of the sides of the shed.

    So my wall needs to go from about 22cm high ( 10cm for each brick and 2 *1 cm mortar ) to 34cm high at the other end in order to remain perfectly level to support the timber frame.

    What is the simplest way to achieve this? I'm a semi-competent DIYer.

    Thanks

    Dave
     
  2. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Well-Known Member

    You've got your brick dimensions wrong - assuming you're using standard bricks. Two courses would be 150mm (65 + 10mm joint per course). That would only just clear the deviation so you probably need three courses.
    I would place some shuttering and lay some new concrete footings to create a level base and go from there.
     
  3. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Easiest option.
     
  4. Multiskillmaster

    Multiskillmaster New Member

    Easiest. Timber Shutter the existing..level obviously, pour a concrete slab on the existing. Make sure existing is clean and wet before you lay new conkers, damp proof if required.
    Or
    Rough in a couple of courses of bricks (as shuttering) making sure whatever it looks like make sure top is laser level...lay in concrete on 1200 gauge dpm sheet, turned over top of brickwork..Spanish render the unsightly mess, use waterproofer in render mix.
    Or
    Buy treated timbers, rip them to different thicknesses, put a perimeter in first and then fill in at 400 centres..use a laser to get them all spot on..use non compressive packing...I use window packers. They are 1-6 mm and easy to see what you need (nice to stick them to conkers and timber in case they vibrate about, use a polymer- sticks like **** or equivalent.. dozen galvanised brackets to hold frame in place.
     

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