Can I temporarily insulate a conservatory roof?

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by tonynoarm, Nov 12, 2006.

  1. jetjem

    jetjem New Member

    I've decided to go for SF40 insulated blanket on 50x 25 battens with upvc cladding on 20mm thick battens.
    To get around the leaky problem I'll fit large L angle wedged to the right angle, sealed onto the ring beam. Then drill vent holes, at intervals just above the angle, through the ring beam with sealed in vent pipes to drain outside.
    Hopefully it should work, after all it's only the winter and southeasterly gales that cause any problems. I can live with that.
    Comes in at about £350 to £400.
    I worked out if I lived the next 20 years just heating would cost £2000, a bit cheaper than £7000 quoted for a roof and still have to heat it.
     
  2. koolpc

    koolpc Screwfix Select

    Pics as you progress. Glad to see u have not gone with dot and dab! Phew! lol ;):p
     
  3. I don't really understand where these leaks could be. If your upper roof leaks, then it leaks - and you will have a leak. And it will likely appear along the wallplate at some point.

    But connie roofs don't tend to do that really. If they do, then they need fixing.

    Re your earlier post - the poly roofs aren't meant to be ventilated. I mean, there isn;t meant to be gaps along the top and wallplate edges or else you'd have a draught in your connie. But, it's very likely that there will be some gaps there - rarley are they air tight. So, this small draught will keep the new roof void ventilated which I'd say is a good thing.

    If I were doing this, I'd remove any foam strips (or perhaps drill a series of holes in them) along the bottom eaves to encourage ventilation up in the new void. But don't make them too large or you could get bugs and wasps up there...

    If I were doing this roof insulation job, I'm pretty sure all I'd do is to bond (STIXALL!!!) thin Celotex sheets (say around 25mm thick) directly to the ali roof bars, mitre then carefully and then run a bead of expanding foam along all joints before sticking them in place. You might have to use battens and supports to hold them tightly in place until the StixAll sets, especially if the sheets are warped.

    Then overlay with a thick lining paper or WallRock. Paint. Jobbie jobbed.

    How are you planning to attach these timber battens? Watch out if you are going to use screws...
     
  4. jetjem

    jetjem New Member

    Got the SF40 so looks like going ahead with that, also Stixall.

    When I built the conservatory I had the roof made to measure. When I assembled it I noticed there were air gaps at the top. I contacted the makers about this as I thought it would leak, exposed as we are to coastal winds. They said it was Ok and meant to be like that, 3rd winter SW gale it leaked.
    I ran a thick bead of silicone (past experience), across at the top of the poly to stop the water blowing up and it certainly helped.
    So if I can I will take steps to prevent it happening again, I will.

    I'll post pics of the job as we go.
    I have a good next door neighbour with experience of conservatories, so between us and your tips we should be ok!

    Your right about the screws, as few as possible will be carefully used, as near as possible to the centre.
    See photo of roof bar which I thought would have a solid base.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Ah, if you have open gaps that could have rain blown through then, yes, sort that first. Once this ceiling is up the rain will obviously land on it, whereas before it would simply have ended up harmlessly on your connie floor!

    Where would the screws go in to that profile? The centre section - which would have been ideal - is 'missing'. If you plan to put them in to the flange on either side, chust make sure the screws won't get anywhere near the poly sheets.
     
  6. gg1a

    gg1a New Member

    this old thread but i hope someone can answer , im doing same thing but ive ordered 25x38 battons, by error ,but joining strip is 50 , i noticed some ppl stapled strips, to batton, but i wont have room too, can i use pinkgrip or just screw them in .
    there does seem to be 1mm clearance inside cladding and strip .
    ive also thought about horizontal batton every 600mm to catch the staple breaking up the vertical run of batton,
    whats best option?
    thanks
     
  7. Ohinever

    Ohinever New Member

    I've read this whole thread and have superquilt arriving tomorrow. My connie already has 70mm wooden rafters internally. Can I just staple, then tape the quilt between these rafters (leaving the 25mm air gap) or do I need to run the quilt under the rafters and rebaton before applying cladding?

    I'd prefer the former as I lose less height, and I won't have to worry about batoning either.
     
  8. dai-diy

    dai-diy New Member

    Hi all, found this thread while researching insulating a conservatory. Been a very helpful read.

    We have an Edwardian conservatory, 4x3m. Been planning to make it more habitable since moving here 3 years ago, but with kids getting older now, we could really do with more year round living space - well, somewhere where I can escape!

    The main issue is that I don't want anything too permanent as we will be looking to move house in around 5 years time - I don't really want to start screwing batons into the glazing bars like a lot do.

    So I think I have three options:

    1 - Stixall batons to glazing bars, multifoil, nail/screw batons over existing batons, clad.

    2 - Stixall sheets of insulation board directly to glazing bars, lining paper, then paint.

    Main concerns are will the stixall be strong enough, and will it be reasonable to remove if need to? Could I use carpet tape instead?

    3 - The other option I thought of was to cut boards of insulation to fit between each glazing bar. Line with paper and paint so they look aesthetically ok. But how to hold in place? Don't really think stixall'ing them to the poly would be sensible. Some sort of support spanning across the glazing bars perhaps? Or is this idea completely daft to begin with?

    Thanks all, and apologise for poor pics, it's dark.
     

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  9. dai-diy

    dai-diy New Member

    Any advice on the above? Stixalling celotex to upvc?

    I'm also thinking about polysterene sheets instead and whether you could paper over that.
     
  10. Wizard123

    Wizard123 New Member

    Hi

    I have just put up batons (using stixall) and stapled multi foil in, I just realized that I use 12mm height by 32mm wide timber wood, when adding another battons, screwing in, the batons split, I use 25mm screws. Is the wood batons I use is too shallow, I don't really want to take it off and do it again, is there another way or will it be ok. Do u think drilling the second baton to fix will help.
     
  11. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    No offence but I've no intention of reading through 24 pages to find out what questions have been asked or advice given.

    This thread should have been locked but the administrators can't be rrsed. It's not your fault that we frequent a flawed forum but please will you start a new thread to protect all of our sanity?
     
  12. Chris.7654

    Chris.7654 New Member


    I used batons of that size without any issues.
    They shouldn’t be cracking unless you’re drilling too close to an edge? Or you’re countersinking too deeply? Or you’re using screws with too large a gauge? Or it’s the type of wood you're using (doubt its this though).

    If none of the above rings any bells, then to avoid cracking when screwing you can pre-drill the holes in the timber.
     
  13. Wizard123

    Wizard123 New Member

    Thanks, I had another go and pre drilled the second button and counter sink, works and no split, really happy. I just found out the screws are 20mm, not 25mm so found some 25mm and it holds. Many thanks.

    Oh, the conservatory is much better now, only warm now compared to very hot few days ago, big difference, look forward to see how it goes in winter.

    Next step to do is to insulate the flooring as mine got tiles, like the roof before, it gets cold in winter, warm in hot weather, thinking of using this underlay

    https://www.flooringdirect.co.uk/ac...ng_a7JmDXU_KxPd_J8NrdlndVloDBtmRoCXU4QAvD_BwE

    And using vinyl laminated flooring, karndean.

    What u guys think.
     
  14. ELIOTRASI

    ELIOTRASI New Member

    When my guests have gone in the spring I may decide to remove the insulation so do not want to go to a great expense on this project. However if it is successful I may decide to leave it in situ.
     
  15. ELIOTRASI

    ELIOTRASI New Member

    This material is readily Tutuapp 9Apps ShowBox available from any good Garden centre, Could be easily fixed to the underside of the rafters using a stalpe gun, would not cost too much and, if done carefully, would look OK.
     
  16. Wizard123

    Wizard123 New Member

  17. william johnson

    william johnson New Member

    Hi everyone, flat roof plasterboard 12.5mm with 50mm insulation conservatory 12ft x 13ft 10 roof joists can you advise the size of joists 3x2 or 4x2 or larger ???
     
  18. chrissie2007

    chrissie2007 New Member


    We have ran some wood battens on the existing roof bars only to ensure a 20mm air gap between the roof polycarbonate and super quit insulation , then stapled super quilt insulation which is on a roll to the battens and then battened over again to attach t and g plastic so it would flex with the roof if needed.
    It’s made a massive difference , not baking in summer or freezing in winter . We rarely get condensation on the windows anymore.
    As other thread said it may breach building regs however if you got internal doors separating it I don’t think it matters to much .
    Either way when we sell we can remove it then there is no issue .
    No guarantee but can confirm it makes our usable all year round .
     

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