Can I temporarily insulate a conservatory roof?

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by tonynoarm, Nov 12, 2006.

  1. jetjem

    jetjem New Member

    I've decided to go for SF40 insulated blanket on 50x 25 battens with upvc cladding on 20mm thick battens.
    To get around the leaky problem I'll fit large L angle wedged to the right angle, sealed onto the ring beam. Then drill vent holes, at intervals just above the angle, through the ring beam with sealed in vent pipes to drain outside.
    Hopefully it should work, after all it's only the winter and southeasterly gales that cause any problems. I can live with that.
    Comes in at about £350 to £400.
    I worked out if I lived the next 20 years just heating would cost £2000, a bit cheaper than £7000 quoted for a roof and still have to heat it.
     
  2. koolpc

    koolpc Well-Known Member

    Pics as you progress. Glad to see u have not gone with dot and dab! Phew! lol ;):p
     
  3. Devil's Advocate

    Devil's Advocate Well-Known Member

    I don't really understand where these leaks could be. If your upper roof leaks, then it leaks - and you will have a leak. And it will likely appear along the wallplate at some point.

    But connie roofs don't tend to do that really. If they do, then they need fixing.

    Re your earlier post - the poly roofs aren't meant to be ventilated. I mean, there isn;t meant to be gaps along the top and wallplate edges or else you'd have a draught in your connie. But, it's very likely that there will be some gaps there - rarley are they air tight. So, this small draught will keep the new roof void ventilated which I'd say is a good thing.

    If I were doing this, I'd remove any foam strips (or perhaps drill a series of holes in them) along the bottom eaves to encourage ventilation up in the new void. But don't make them too large or you could get bugs and wasps up there...

    If I were doing this roof insulation job, I'm pretty sure all I'd do is to bond (STIXALL!!!) thin Celotex sheets (say around 25mm thick) directly to the ali roof bars, mitre then carefully and then run a bead of expanding foam along all joints before sticking them in place. You might have to use battens and supports to hold them tightly in place until the StixAll sets, especially if the sheets are warped.

    Then overlay with a thick lining paper or WallRock. Paint. Jobbie jobbed.

    How are you planning to attach these timber battens? Watch out if you are going to use screws...
     
  4. jetjem

    jetjem New Member

    Got the SF40 so looks like going ahead with that, also Stixall.

    When I built the conservatory I had the roof made to measure. When I assembled it I noticed there were air gaps at the top. I contacted the makers about this as I thought it would leak, exposed as we are to coastal winds. They said it was Ok and meant to be like that, 3rd winter SW gale it leaked.
    I ran a thick bead of silicone (past experience), across at the top of the poly to stop the water blowing up and it certainly helped.
    So if I can I will take steps to prevent it happening again, I will.

    I'll post pics of the job as we go.
    I have a good next door neighbour with experience of conservatories, so between us and your tips we should be ok!

    Your right about the screws, as few as possible will be carefully used, as near as possible to the centre.
    See photo of roof bar which I thought would have a solid base.
     

    Attached Files:

  5. Devil's Advocate

    Devil's Advocate Well-Known Member

    Ah, if you have open gaps that could have rain blown through then, yes, sort that first. Once this ceiling is up the rain will obviously land on it, whereas before it would simply have ended up harmlessly on your connie floor!

    Where would the screws go in to that profile? The centre section - which would have been ideal - is 'missing'. If you plan to put them in to the flange on either side, chust make sure the screws won't get anywhere near the poly sheets.
     
  6. gg1a

    gg1a New Member

    this old thread but i hope someone can answer , im doing same thing but ive ordered 25x38 battons, by error ,but joining strip is 50 , i noticed some ppl stapled strips, to batton, but i wont have room too, can i use pinkgrip or just screw them in .
    there does seem to be 1mm clearance inside cladding and strip .
    ive also thought about horizontal batton every 600mm to catch the staple breaking up the vertical run of batton,
    whats best option?
    thanks
     

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