Cast iron radiator weight issue

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Robot Enthusiast, Nov 8, 2020.

  1. Hi all,

    I have purchased a nice cast iron radiator for my living room. The floor is suspended timber beams as is common in many houses. But, the radiator will be 130kg when it arrives and even more (circa 160kg) when wet/full.

    My gut feeling is to reinforce the floor or at least provide some supports under the floor from blockwork or similar where the feet of the radiator will stand. Is this a sensible tactic or am I over simplifying this. Is there a known method used by the industry?

    Sorry if this is in the wrong forum. I didnt know if this should be under builing work or plumbing.

    Thanks.
     
  2. Tilt

    Tilt Active Member

    I don't see that weight being a problem for a sound floor, if the beams and boards are in good condition.
    It's what, a twelve stone person either side or thereabouts....

    If it is easy enough to support though and gives you peace of mind, and maybe if the floor has any movement as it is, then go ahead... It cant hurt.
    I'm just working on logic though.
     
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  3. Bob Rathbone

    Bob Rathbone Screwfix Select

    If the radiator is on the wall with the joists at 90 degrees to that wall, then the weight is distributed between many joists at the strongest point close to the wall. All should be OK. If the joists run parallel to that wall then the weight will be on two joists, they may flex, but not much.
     
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  4. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    I’ve seen these type rads with the feet resting on a full width (of the rad) wooden plinth to help spread the weight - like placing a sturdy timber length under the feet on a bath for same reason

    Plinth can be as plain or fancy as you like, simple chamfered or rounded edges, plain square or something more intricate

    Stained or painted to match flooring / radiator

    But guess it all depends on what exactly is underneath the floor where the rad feet land

    The boards are probably coming up anyway for plumbing so ideal time to take a look ?
     
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  5. I think you are right. The floor is ok but it is old. I will try and put some blocks under the beams to make sure. The boards are not rotten but I might as well for the best of a few blocks.

    Thanks
     
  6. Joists are perpendicular to the wall but I noticed another joist running parallel that sat underneath that one. Maybe this was an old design feature for the age of when cast iron rads were the norm.
     
  7. The room is planned to have new parquet flooring going in so the idea of a strengthening peice on top of that doesn't appeal. The boards are up and I will take a look at putting some blocks in. I guess I'm going to need to coordinate the rad install with the floor though...
     
  8. Red Star Boats

    Red Star Boats Active Member

    I don’t know about over simplifying it, I think you may be over complicating it, so long as the floor is sound it will be fine as is.
     
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  9. Bob Rathbone

    Bob Rathbone Screwfix Select

    That Rad is no heavier than an economy 7 block storage radiator.
     
  10. Thanks all for the responses. I lifted the boards tonight to measure how many blocks I would need to support under the joists - there was already brickwork there that looked like the foundations of the house plus an additional supporting timber. So it's all good. Thanks again.
     
  11. I felt the need to resurrect this after speaking to a flooring specialist tonight.
    The rad is not yet in as it is not delivered. The flooring guy is going to put parquet flooring in the room but says we should let him install first before the radiator goes in... in my mind that is easier for him as the rad wont be in the way. Problem is the old radiator was 1800mm wide and the pipes come though the floorboards to suit that, the new rad is 1500mm, so the pipes will need moving albeit only a small amount. If he puts the new parquet floor in first then there will be no way to adjust the pipes as the floor will be finished and the pipes come from underneath. When I told him to just cut around the radiator he seemed uninterested. I could go with his plan but I will need to pay a plumber twice - once to move the pipes and then to install the rad when the floor is finished.

    Just want to check before proceeding. Any thoughts?

    Cheers.
     
  12. longboat

    longboat Screwfix Select

    Thoughts...
    You need to get the pipework in place then fit the flooring, then fit the radiator.
    Cutting parquet flooring to fit around the feet of a cast iron rad will look like a bodge.
    Not to mention how frustrated the fitter will be for you insisting he does it.
    Pay the extra 50quid or so to connect the rad up later.
    Quality remains when the (paltry, in this case) price is forgotten.
     

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