changing kitchen tap

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by jorge tseng, Jun 17, 2021.

  1. jorge tseng

    jorge tseng New Member

    I am changing kitchen tap and would like to know how to disconnect the hot and cold water pipes that goes to the old kitchen tap. I don't see nuts in the hot and cold water pipes. Help please

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  2. terrymac

    terrymac Screwfix Select

    You need to cut the copper tap tails which are soldered onto the copper supply pipes. Is your new tap supplied with Flexi hose tap tails ? If so ,you need to introduce a fitting onto the supply pipes to connect the flexis to.
  3. candoabitofmoststuff

    candoabitofmoststuff Screwfix Select

    To expand on that... The pipes into the taps are hand tight screw fit that have a small rubber "o" ring seal... something like this;

    Once you have cut through the copper you will be able to turn the pipe end to free it from the tap.

    You can get flexible ones, that have a push fit on the supply end, so they are very easy to DIY fit if you don't fancy soldering or using a compression fit
    Good luck,
  4. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    I did guess that once you had mastered the art of changing your bath taps (recent post from yourself) that no other taps in the house would be safe and their days will be numbered :)

    However, with plumbing, and many other maintenance tasks around the house, there’s no ‘one size fits all’ with regards to fittings and fixtures

    But again, every job completed is another skill learned and advice is always available from this great forum

    There’s always a plumbing fitting to connect one item to another - it’s just knowing what to use in any given situation, also considering your skill level and tools available

    No point in recommending an end feed solder fitting if you’ve never soldered pipe and don’t own the equipment - unless you want to learn and plan on doing more plumbing in the future

    Best to purchase your new tap first and see what it comes with in terms of supply connections - can be as you have now, copper tails or flexi hoses. Even then, the fittings to hot/cold pipes can vary so you may well need additional fittings to make the connection

    Get new tap and post picture of what it comes with then specific connection advice can be given

    I highly recomended also purchasing a set of ‘monobloc tap spanners’

    Don’t need top of the range - can get a set for around £8 that will give you a selection of nut sizes to fit all common sizes

    Gives extended reach to nut that clamps tap to worktop and makes a tricky job simple and a pleasure !
  5. jorge tseng

    jorge tseng New Member

    Thank you all for the guidelenes.

    To cut my current pipe, should I do it with a 15mm pipe cutter (picture of pipe size) and should I cut it above or below where it's solded?

    The new kitchen tap (Cooke & Lewis 55A mono mixer) comes with flexi hoses (picture below). Should I get this fitting (compression adapting male couple 15mm)? If so, how do I join the fitting to the pipe?

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  6. jonathanc

    jonathanc Screwfix Select

    Do not use that part you have identified. It is BSP taper thread and will mess up the washers.

    you need to use a 15mm isolator plus tap tail adapters items:2665R (check that your tap tails are half inch. If not there are 3/8 available) and 65251
  7. jorge tseng

    jorge tseng New Member

    Thank you - it saved me some headache in the future. This case I would have total 4 isolating valves (as I think I currently have 2 - in the picture)? Also, does it matter where I cut and install the new isolator/tail adapters (or just as long as can reach the flexi hoses is ok?
  8. jonathanc

    jonathanc Screwfix Select

    i didnt see two in the picture. if you already have isolators u can just use 15mm straight compression joint
  9. jorge tseng

    jorge tseng New Member

    here's the picture - sorry didn't upload earlier

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  10. dcox

    dcox Screwfix Select

    If you undo the lower nut of the hot isolation valve you’ll be able to move the two pipes apart up nearer the tap to make using a pipe slice easier. Turn it off first though (!). I’d cut them above the soldered joint initially then trim to the correct length once your new tap and tails are fitted.

    I think the link you provided for a ‘compression adapting male coupler’ (aka male iron) would be the correct fitting to go between your copper pipe and female end of the new flexi tap tails.
  11. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    2 things to consider when your deciding where to cut supply pipes;

    1. How long are flexi hoses ?

    No point in cutting close to iso valves if flexis aren’t going to reach. Longer/shorter flexis available but work with what you’ve got. Flexis can be installed dead straight to tap, gently curved or even in a gentle loop. What you must avoid is sharp bends which may kink the inside rubber tube and damage the exterior wire sheath

    2. Copper tap tails are tapered, from 15mm at the soldered end and gradually reducing as you work up to tap

    Whatever fitting your using to connect flexis to copper, it’s going to be a 15mm compresion or 15mm push fit

    If you cut tap tail to close to tap, diameter may well be less than 15mm and your not going to get a seal with a 15mm fitting
  12. jorge tseng

    jorge tseng New Member

    The flexi hose is about 36 cm long. It won't reach the iso valves (picture). Do I need an additional pair of iso valves?

    If I don't need additional pair of iso valves, should i cut copper pipe at the lower side where it's solded (easier to reach) and install the compression adapting male couple 15mm (69358)?

    If I need an additional pair of iso valves, should i install these (2665R and 65251) at the lower side where it's solded (easier to reach)?

    Thank you again for all you help.

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  13. jorge tseng

    jorge tseng New Member

    If only compression adapting male coupler is needed. Is it the 15mm x 1/2" or the 15mm x 3/4" needed? Thank you

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  14. Jimbo

    Jimbo Screwfix Select

    I would cut through both pipes with a hacksaw just under the soldered joint (after isolating obviously) if the flexis are long enough, then remove and re-make the hot supply from the existing isolator as there isn't enough space between them to fit two compression joints as they are.

    When that bit of hot pipe is removed you can use a pipe slice on the end of the cold supply to get neat end on it (especially if using push-fit) in just the right place, probably just under the soldered joint.

    You may also want to put in some pipe supports as the tap might be holding up that area of pipe.
  15. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    15mmx1/2” required

    Plumbing sizes are confusing in lots of ways, imperial, metric, (both used in same description as here), internal/external measurements, different thread sizes and more

    With above -
    15mm is the compression end that fits to supply pipe

    1/2” is where the flexi hose female end screws on to
  16. jorge tseng

    jorge tseng New Member

    Thank you for the guidelenes. Also Jimbo good observation not ennough space between them to fit two compression joints. Should I install compression male coupler at the bottom of the copper pipe (the hot water pipe a bit higher than cold water pipe) as there's a bit more space at the bottom of the pipes (picture)? or Should I install copression male coupler for the cold water pipe and get 50 cm flexi hose (picture) for the hot water pipe. But then, would the flexi hose 1/2" female be able to connect to the current iso valve?

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  17. jorge tseng

    jorge tseng New Member

  18. jorge tseng

    jorge tseng New Member

    Thank you all the guys above. I changed it already following the steps. All these efforts and being very cautious to just realized that this brand new kitchen tap (Cooke & Lewis Ithaca) is faulty as water leeks from the upper side of the device. But spotless on the connection underneath

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