'Charlotte' High Level Cistern / Victorian Toliet Leaking

Discussion in 'Plumbers' Talk' started by verynewtothis, Jun 10, 2019 at 10:11 AM.

  1. verynewtothis

    verynewtothis New Member

    Please help! Is there a way I can get around this? I thought it would be a straight chrome pipe run starting from the Compression Equal 90° Elbow at the top of the cistern, but I now need to connect to the bend at the bottom of the run shown in the photo. I can't really use the bottom of the chrome pipe now as it looks discolored.

    If turned off the stopcock to stop the water flow then undid the isolating valve shown in this photo then added a piece of copper tube joined to a compression elbow pointing to the right at 90° then another compression 90°elbow to start the chrome pipe going up, would that work? I have drawn an example below.

    Btw, someone also said to me yesterday that I should be using some kind of tape where the joins are around the pipe to get a tight seal, is that true or don't I need them when tightening up the nuts? Will I need some more nuts and olives?

    Photo 12-06-2019, 10 33 59.jpg
    Photo 12-06-2019, 10 33 59.jpg IMG_0004.JPG
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2019 at 10:50 AM
  2. DIY0001

    DIY0001 Member

    That should work fine, and is a bit more sensibly laid out than the original. The whole point of the isolation valve is easy access for servicing/replacement of the cistern parts, so burying it out of sight in the boxing defeats the purpose. Also, how will a future occupier / plumber know there is a service valve at all if its out of view? Surprised you managed to find it to begin with. Moving it to where you suggest is a much better option.

    A couple of tips. You can probably leave the nut and olive from the existing service valve on the pipe to fit the first compression elbow. Easier than trying to cut the pipe, clean it and fit an elbow from scratch. Also, make sure you get chrome plated copper pipe. I did see one cowboy try to fit chrome plated steel pipe into plumbing once. :rolleyes: I think it was meant for curtain rail or something, but it was really hard and unsurprisingly he couldn't get the compression fittings to seal! o_O It would probably have rusted through in a couple of months if he had been successful anyway.

    All of the fittings should come with the required nuts and olives, but its always handy to have some spare olives as they can't be moved once tightened.

    There really isn't any need for PTFE tape on standard compression fittings. The seal is between the soft metal surfaces of the pipe, olive and fitting. If they leak a little when you turn the supply back on then turn it off and tighten them up a bit. Get some blue kitchen towel and wipe each joint once the water is on. The blue stuff gets darker when wet and easily shows the slightest leak.
  3. DIY0001

    DIY0001 Member

    One other point. When you turn off the stopcock you will still have water in the pipes. So when you undo the original isolation valve this will run out. Depending on the rest of the plumbing, it can be quite a lot, but you'll at least have the pipe full to the cistern empty out. If you can drain some off by opening other taps in the system that helps, but have a container and some towels ready to soak it up. Be prepared and don't panic. ;)
    verynewtothis likes this.
  4. verynewtothis

    verynewtothis New Member

    Will report back... thanks for everyone's input - Very Appreciated.

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