I can second the recommendation for the makita ls1040. Like the other poster I would have preferred the ls1013 but funds dictated otherwise. The ls1040 is a very good tool though
Hi, like you I have tried various cheapo compound mitre saws (up to £100) and after using a DeWalt 708 on-site for 3 months decided to buy one at B&Q during a special offer... absolutely the business. Accurate, firm and non wobbly cut, realy clean finish, repeatable angles, beautiful 45s, trenching grooves (or cutting half-lapped trench joints), 12" cut or 24" on turn over. Only drawback is the (removable) fences which must be moved aside when cutting 45s of vertical. Also, the site one got wrecked when a small offcut (which had not been removed from the table) trapped the blade and wonked the heavy frame! Very bad news! But the blade is the key -must be kept really sharp and true. Just have to pay of my credit card now...
How about a compound mitre board for £40?? http://www.whdirect.co.uk/detail.lasso?keyvalue=3743&-session=Login:FFC6852E1BF7E404C3FC6D83699A7119 Use any cicular saw and cuts up to 450mm.
try this!! go to rutland tools & look at the FOX sliding mitre saw not to dear and has capacity you need p.s radial factor on sliding mitre saws is where youcan lock off the depth of cut i.e too make tenons kitchen fitter you say!!!!!!!
the hush.. can you please let on what this radial arm "factor" is .... all and sundry in my workshops are fascinated to know....and what book of tables/calc's do you use...
thehush, you said you have used the fox sliding mitre saw , can you give some feed back on any problems it has, if any.
vincereynard, Thats the same mitre board sold on QVC as the M.A.C. mitre board for a similar price. It turns any hand held circular saw into a radial arm saw. The 450 mm cross cut capacity can only be used at 90º. If used for mitre cuts its a lot less as the adjustable mitre guide is in the middle of the board. Usefull bit of kit & portable but if used for workshop applications it can be better to make your own out of wood & plywood. Thats what I did & included a sliding end stop for the workpiece. I use mine primarily for routing housings.
I have had an Hitachi CF8S for last 10 years, it is superb, but list is now over £1000, though I am sure you can get it for much less. In Good Woodworking this month, I believe they rated the Makita as the best on test, and thats about £500 street price. Since a cheapo mitre saw will make your plinths, cornices and pelmets, pants, I would suggest you invest in a Nobex Champion mitre saw, (manual, but extremely accurate and reliable) costing approx £100. Then save up for a quality bit of kit. I paid about £650 all that time ago and don't regret a penny of it. cheers, pete