Confirmation for reasons to scribe internal corners on skirting

  • Thread starter Thread starter ShabbaPlanks
  • Start date Start date
This is very interesting. If you mitre an internal corner with say Taurus, unless the walls are dead square or you've measured the angle and bisected it, you'll see a gap. Wood shrinks most across it's width, and not much in length or thickness. The scribed (or coped joint as you use a coping saw to cut it) should be cut on a mitre first at 45 degrees, then a coping saw used to follow the shape of the mitre. Finally (and most chippies don't do this) a half round file should be used to file the scribe at an angle so that only the face touches the fixed skirting. If the wall's out of square, it won't matter as only the face edge is touching. By the way, the scribed ends should not be seen when you walk in the room, or you may see a small gap after shrinkage. In other words, the scribed skirting should be on your left or right, not on the back wall.

Kevin
 
Sorry, but I'm very old. A scribed joint was originally called a coped joint and after cutting a 45 degree mitre, you would use a coping saw to cut around the mitred shape. That's why it's called a coping saw, it's used to cut a coped joint. Of course, nowadays you would use a cordless jigsaw with a narrow blade so that you can get into tight curves. The jigsaw can be set at a slight angle - say 5 degrees - so that only the face touches the adjacent skirting.
I was taught by some excellent carpenters, old but experienced.

"I'm an analogue man in a digital world." Bruce Willis Die Hard 3
 
I know why it's called a coping saw, I even have one somewhere.
You don't need to angle the base you just hold the jigsaw at an angle.
 
Hi Chippie 244 (or should that be chippy?) Yes you could, but I prefer to go for consistent accuracy, rather than guesses. I would also finish with a half round file (not a rasp, too much chipping) to get a nice sharp edge. I think you will find that on a Carpentry/Joinery Course, that teach it the way I explained. As you are aware, on site you do things differently to a college course. Colleges teach 2 ways to do things: The old fashioned way using hand tools, and the faster modern way using power and battery tools. Up until a few years ago, carpentry instructors were still teaching how to make splay cut softwood plugs for brickwork. and how to make mitre boxes from floorboards. You don't acquire hand skills by using power or cordless tools.
 
Can't see how you would cut a good scribe on Torus or OG with a jigsaw and not needing filler on the joints.

That would be no good for something not getting filled and painted.

It is the same old scenario lash it in with a jigsaw,or do it properly.
 
KEVIN NAIRN said:
Hi Chippie 244 (or should that be chippy?) Yes you could, but I prefer to go for consistent accuracy, rather than guesses. I would also finish with a half round file (not a rasp, too much chipping) to get a nice sharp edge. I think you will find that on a Carpentry/Joinery Course, that teach it the way I explained. As you are aware, on site you do things differently to a college course. Colleges teach 2 ways to do things: The old fashioned way using hand tools, and the faster modern way using power and battery tools. Up until a few years ago, carpentry instructors were still teaching how to make splay cut softwood plugs for brickwork. and how to make mitre boxes from floorboards. You don't acquire hand skills by using power or cordless tools.
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If you angle the base to undercut when you go around the round you are undercutting at the wrong angle.
I can cut mitres quite happily without a mitre saw or a box.
Chippie is fine thanks.
 
Deleted member 11267 said:
Can't see how you would cut a good scribe on Torus or OG with a jigsaw and not needing filler on the joints.

That would be no good for something not getting filled and painted.

It is the same old scenario lash it in with a jigsaw,or do it properly.
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Perhaps that's because you're not very good.
 
chippie244 said:
Perhaps that's because you're not very good.
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Not at all,I know if I scribe a piece of skirting it will be perfect and no filler required.
I would not say the same about a scribe on skirting with a jigsaw.
 
chippie244 said:
No I haven't said that.
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Maybe not in those exact words but more or less alluding to the fact, whatever the phrase you used.
Anyway I will carry on and do a perfect scribe with a coping saw and you can carry on with your jigsaw.
 
Deleted member 11267 said:
Maybe not in those exact words but more or less alluding to the fact, whatever the phrase you used.
Anyway I will carry on and do a perfect scribe with a coping saw and you can carry on with your jigsaw.
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Bearing in mind that I work for myself and don't do site work this obviously a lie so an apology would be in order.
 
Deleted member 11267 said:
I think think an apology would be in order for that statement.
You have in the past said painters make things look good on some of your jobs.
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I work with scenic artists, that's their job, I can't make wood look like stone or metal, well I can but they're quicker.
You've said that you can't scribe with a jigsaw so no you're not very good.
 
Wow! I really started something with my "coping saw" and "jigsaw" post. 3 things: 1) You can use a jigsaw to cut most of the scribe out, and finish with a coping saw 2) A half round file makes a nice curve for the round bits (I suppose somebody's gonna say "I can get a perfect curve with a jigsaw or coping saw" 3) If the skirting is hardwood, oak or ash, you may not be allowed to use caulk or filler; the clerk of works, project manager or foreman may give you STRICT instructions NO FILLER! Wooden plugs on the screwheads. This is of course for high quality work, such as a stately home or a listed building refurb.
 
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