Confirmation for reasons to scribe internal corners on skirting

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by ShabbaPlanks, Nov 7, 2006.


    KEVIN NAIRN Member

    This is very interesting. If you mitre an internal corner with say Taurus, unless the walls are dead square or you've measured the angle and bisected it, you'll see a gap. Wood shrinks most across it's width, and not much in length or thickness. The scribed (or coped joint as you use a coping saw to cut it) should be cut on a mitre first at 45 degrees, then a coping saw used to follow the shape of the mitre. Finally (and most chippies don't do this) a half round file should be used to file the scribe at an angle so that only the face touches the fixed skirting. If the wall's out of square, it won't matter as only the face edge is touching. By the way, the scribed ends should not be seen when you walk in the room, or you may see a small gap after shrinkage. In other words, the scribed skirting should be on your left or right, not on the back wall.

  2. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Coping saw?
  3. Jord86

    Jord86 Screwfix Select

    Half round file? :confused: Just undercut it.
    CGN and chippie244 like this.

    KEVIN NAIRN Member

    Sorry, but I'm very old. A scribed joint was originally called a coped joint and after cutting a 45 degree mitre, you would use a coping saw to cut around the mitred shape. That's why it's called a coping saw, it's used to cut a coped joint. Of course, nowadays you would use a cordless jigsaw with a narrow blade so that you can get into tight curves. The jigsaw can be set at a slight angle - say 5 degrees - so that only the face touches the adjacent skirting.
    I was taught by some excellent carpenters, old but experienced.

    "I'm an analogue man in a digital world." Bruce Willis Die Hard 3
  5. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    I know why it's called a coping saw, I even have one somewhere.
    You don't need to angle the base you just hold the jigsaw at an angle.

    KEVIN NAIRN Member

    Hi Chippie 244 (or should that be chippy?) Yes you could, but I prefer to go for consistent accuracy, rather than guesses. I would also finish with a half round file (not a rasp, too much chipping) to get a nice sharp edge. I think you will find that on a Carpentry/Joinery Course, that teach it the way I explained. As you are aware, on site you do things differently to a college course. Colleges teach 2 ways to do things: The old fashioned way using hand tools, and the faster modern way using power and battery tools. Up until a few years ago, carpentry instructors were still teaching how to make splay cut softwood plugs for brickwork. and how to make mitre boxes from floorboards. You don't acquire hand skills by using power or cordless tools.
    Deleted member 11267 likes this.
  7. Can't see how you would cut a good scribe on Torus or OG with a jigsaw and not needing filler on the joints.

    That would be no good for something not getting filled and painted.

    It is the same old scenario lash it in with a jigsaw,or do it properly.
  8. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    I always use a coping saw....

    And half a tube of caulking!
  9. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    If you angle the base to undercut when you go around the round you are undercutting at the wrong angle.
    I can cut mitres quite happily without a mitre saw or a box.
    Chippie is fine thanks.
  10. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Perhaps that's because you're not very good.
  11. Not at all,I know if I scribe a piece of skirting it will be perfect and no filler required.
    I would not say the same about a scribe on skirting with a jigsaw.
  12. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    I refer you to my previous statement.
  13. You have in the past said you lash it in and it is covered up by others.
    That is not my style,anything I do it is done to the highest standards.
  14. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    No I haven't said that.
  15. Maybe not in those exact words but more or less alluding to the fact, whatever the phrase you used.
    Anyway I will carry on and do a perfect scribe with a coping saw and you can carry on with your jigsaw.
  16. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Bearing in mind that I work for myself and don't do site work this obviously a lie so an apology would be in order.
  17. I think think an apology would be in order for that statement.
    You have in the past said painters make things look good on some of your jobs.
  18. furious_customer

    furious_customer Screwfix Select

    Since the first post as 12 years ago, I bet the OP has scribed a fair few skirtings by now.
  19. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    I work with scenic artists, that's their job, I can't make wood look like stone or metal, well I can but they're quicker.
    You've said that you can't scribe with a jigsaw so no you're not very good.

    KEVIN NAIRN Member

    Wow! I really started something with my "coping saw" and "jigsaw" post. 3 things: 1) You can use a jigsaw to cut most of the scribe out, and finish with a coping saw 2) A half round file makes a nice curve for the round bits (I suppose somebody's gonna say "I can get a perfect curve with a jigsaw or coping saw" 3) If the skirting is hardwood, oak or ash, you may not be allowed to use caulk or filler; the clerk of works, project manager or foreman may give you STRICT instructions NO FILLER! Wooden plugs on the screwheads. This is of course for high quality work, such as a stately home or a listed building refurb.
    Deleted member 11267 likes this.

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