Connection block in ceiling void

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by Muzungu, Sep 13, 2018.

  1. Muzungu

    Muzungu Active Member

    Just interested as to what you pro's would use with the following, I am changing a ceiling light and found the following had been used (my house). It's been up there more than 10 years, one of two lights in the hall, two way switched.

    Ceiling light hanging attached to wood circular pattress 4 1/4" dia with 1" hole drilled through the middle, this is flat with the plasterboard ceiling and screwed into a batten above the plasterboard, this needs to be kept to maintain the look of a period light. The 3 core cable from the light goes though the hole in the wood pattress and into a, what looks like, 30 amp connection block 4 way loose in the void; downstairs ceiling so no insulation in the void. There are three cables the other side of the block so we have the following wires into the block from that side; 3 earth (sleeved), 3 loop and 3 neutral, 1 switched live. It's actually quite neatly done apart from the fact it is neither enclosed nor fixed.

    So the question is what sort of enclosure would you use for the connection block or what would you use instead of? Standard Chocbox not big enough as far as I am aware. Since I am in there already I might as well do it properly.
  2. Allsorts

    Allsorts Well-Known Member

  3. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    What size hole is in the plasterboard?

    Wago connectors are much better, however, I prefer still see those in an enclosure f some sort. If the hole in the plasterboard large enough to get a WagoLight box through or an Ashley Rock J804?
  4. Muzungu

    Muzungu Active Member

    Thanks for that. That gives me something to go on. I can make the hole in the plasterboard big enough for these to fit while still being covered by the light support. It's the four cables (including the light fitting) that makes it awkward but at least I have the options now to do it right. Thanks again.

    Out of interest what are the technical reasons for not using a standard connection block? I am assuming double insulation needed and fixing to prevent pull on cables? *Edit. Just found a picture of the Ashley with standard connection block fitted.
    Last edited: Sep 13, 2018
  5. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    Screw terminals can work loose and a lot of those being sold now are cheap imports.

    If you can fit that box through, then you will be able to get a J804 in place. A J804 has four sets of terminals - live, neutral, earth and switched live. Each or which has for terminal points, so there will not be a problem in most cases. The terminals in the J804 are sprung loaded Wago terminals and can cope with sold and stranded cables:

    They were previously Ashley, now Hager

    J804 details:
  6. Muzungu

    Muzungu Active Member

    Think I'll go for that. Noticed myself the different quality in connection blocks. Some have solid machined brass contact inserts and some just folded strip. Thanks again.
  7. Pollowick

    Pollowick Well-Known Member

    Get a spare too ! Always worth having a one there just in case.
  8. seneca

    seneca Screwfix Select

    What type of light are you fitting? If the light has a decent size support/base that fits to the ceiling that in itself can be the enclosure.
    FatHands likes this.
  9. Muzungu

    Muzungu Active Member

    Thanks for that Seneca but unfortunately no, the base is too small to fit. The wood pattress that I am using, see picture, is about 4 inches across at the base then tapers and the brass tube holder that is screwed into it is smaller. I did think of hollowing out the wood pattress but that would not have given me enough meat to screw the tube holder into. Picture below is the setup (I am actually using a bigger ribbed globe, unfrosted).


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