Converting from Halogen to LED

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by Rory McLeish, May 21, 2020.

  1. Rory McLeish

    Rory McLeish New Member

    Hi Guys

    I've just moved into a new place which has Halogen downlights installed, a few of them are busted even with different bulbs so it must be that the transformers have blown.

    Instead of replacing the transformers, I want to install LED bulbs instead. Could I get some recommendations or advice on what I would need supplies wise to accomplish this?

    The Transformers that are currently used are a DA-E60. I understand that I need to replace these with an LED driver correct?

    Thanks, Guys!

  2. Teki

    Teki Active Member

    The DA-E60 has a minimum load of 20W. LED lamps are much lower than that so you would need to run a number of them from one transformer.

    It would be far better to replace the fittings with GU10 type and use mains LED lamps instead.
    seneca likes this.
  3. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    seneca likes this.
  4. Rory McLeish

    Rory McLeish New Member

    Hi Teki! Thanks for the reply, could you elaborate on what you mean? I'm not overly savvy with these type of things but just trying to get an idea of the cost before I ask someone qualified to carry out the work.

    Do you mean I don't need a driver at all?
  5. Teki

    Teki Active Member

  6. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

  7. Banallsheds

    Banallsheds New Member

    Not quite right. No such thing as MR16 lamp holder, they are GU5.3 holders. MR16 is the size of the lamp. Most GU10 lamps are MR16.
  8. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

    Yes that's a vitally important point.
    NoOhmToGoTo likes this.
  9. Bazza

    Bazza Screwfix Select

    This is exactly the sort of trivial stuff that this person has been wheeling Out on DIYNOT under the name Winston1 (he will deny this, shortly). The effect there is that he rides his hobby horses through any topic over and over again. On DIYNOT it has had the effect of people asking simple questions just giving up. This poster doesn’t actually contribute or add any value. He just wants to appear to be clever with his thinking on certain issues.
  10. sparky steve

    sparky steve Active Member

    He may want to advise us on this one then Bazza:confused:?
    Which Fuse do i choose:eek: 8F8600B2-DAA8-4CFC-91C4-4B9F80F1DFED.jpeg :D
    Teki likes this.
  11. Banallsheds

    Banallsheds New Member

    Lots of allegations there including suggesting I am someone else.

    But anyway what I posted above is not trivial but correct. MR16 is the size of the lamp NOT a type of base.

    Bazza if you don’t want to read my posts (and perhaps learn something) you have already said you know about the ignore button.
  12. Coloumb

    Coloumb Screwfix Select

    Isn't that an admission?
  13. Hans_25

    Hans_25 Screwfix Select

  14. MGW

    MGW Screwfix Select

    Welcome back to banallsheds, he was on many forums but decided to leave them all. As to LED both extra low voltage (normally 12 volt) and low voltage (normally 230 volt) both have problems, but extra low voltage has more, the main problem is the power supply, with tungsten it does not care if 50 Hz or kHz, or DC, but the LED MR16 compatable in the main are listed as 50 Hz but often they don't care if DC, 50 Hz or kHz what the problem is the power supply has a minimum load. But when they say 50 Hz we don't really have much of an option but to use a wire wound transformer as we don't know if they will work OK with any other frequancy.

    There are DC units but these are normally more expensive and designed to work on battery power, often rated 10 - 30 volt and need a smooth supply, really for boats and caravans.

    The problem with a wire wound transformer is they will not fit through the hole made for the light.

    But to convert to 230 volt you need an earth, and often this means some rewire and fitting junction boxes, so if 12 volt can be used that is much easier, I was lucky all mine had wire wound transformers.

    AC has capacitance and inductive linking, with tungsten this is not a problem, but with LED it can result in lamp not turning off or flashing, this is made worse with two way switching and electronic switches, also with electronic switches you can get flicker, never worked out why. It happens with any electronic switch without a neutral, even on/off does not need to be a dimmer switch.

    I have some G9 bulbs where I have given up, one of the 5 bulbs is a quartz, the same can be done with G5.3 MR16 bulbs, if one is a quartz the rest can be LED. GU10 bulbs are normally OK it seems flicker only happens with bulbs under 5 watt, not a clue why, so 5 x 3 watt you often get flicker with electronic switches, but 1 x 6 watt works OK.

    As to make of bulbs even well know makes can have problems, it seems rather random.

    I am nearly all LED now, but had 5 electronic switches, now down to 3.
  15. Timbo66

    Timbo66 Member

    But, Bazza, you can't deny that he is actually correct. MR16 stands for Multi-Faceted reflector 16 eighths of an inch (2"/50mm) diameter.
    How many people call their vacuum cleaner a Hoover? Doesn't mean it's correct.
    Banallsheds likes this.
  16. Bazza

    Bazza Screwfix Select

    Factually correct, but he doesn’t add any value. You wait, in a short while you too will be fed up with this stuff bring wheeled out whenever a trigger word, like MR16, or transformer is mentioned.
  17. unphased

    unphased Screwfix Select

  18. Banallsheds

    Banallsheds New Member

    Why don't you think it adds value to learn that you were wrong and now know what is correct?

    Bazza, if you have taken my advice and are ignoring me you won't see this post. Perhaps someone can forward it to you.

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