Cornice mitres

Discussion in 'Kitchen Fitters' Talk' started by softinmiddle, Jul 25, 2004.

  1. softinmiddle

    softinmiddle New Member

    Could any of you kitchen fitters out there give away your secrets to getting really tight, gap free mitres on kitchen cabinet cornice, in really tight areas. Many thanks.
     
  2. Dewy

    Dewy New Member

  3. Bitty

    Bitty New Member

    ...and glue them all together with 'mitre-fast', or such, <u>before</u> lifting into place and screwing gently down.
     
  4. softinmiddle

    softinmiddle New Member

    Thanks for replys, All mitres are 90*, its just that the cornice is virtually touching ceiling and very difficult to get all measurements correct. Also i read somewhere that screwing cornice down to mitre box will ensure ther is no movment when cutting.
     
  5. nomad

    nomad New Member

    If the cornice is virtually touching the ceiling in places, aren't you going to have a hard time screwing it down?
     
  6. softinmiddle

    softinmiddle New Member

    Yep, im gonna screw them from inside the cupboard
     
  7. nomad

    nomad New Member

    Fair play to you!
     
  8. bonnie the botch

    bonnie the botch New Member

    hiya I think you will strugle with a mitre box unless the cornice is real wood you will rip the face out on the out stroke, save your self and all fair men the pain and anguish and hire a leccy becky for the weekend, good luck and just take your time and get rid of everyone.
     
  9. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

  10. Bitty

    Bitty New Member

    I presume you are going to use a non-electric mitre saw?

    You have to ensure that the cornice sits perfectly level on the mitre saw base, exactly as it would do on the top of your wall unit. You need to make sure it <u>doesn't move</u> - ie: tilt under the force of the saw - whilst you are cutting.

    If you can't clamp it down, but end up holding it in your hand, make sure you saw particularly gently: keep the saw blade <u>horizontal</u>, make <u>full</u> use of the blade length (long strokes) and apply only the <u>slightest</u> downward pressure on the cornice (almost let the saw cut under its own weight).

    Finally, to avoid bonnie the botch's ripped face (sorry about that...), make sure you always cut <u>towards</u> the exposed face of the cornice; the backstroke shouldn't damage the cornice covering if you are doing controlled, gentle strokes.

    Oh, and do invest in some 'mitre-fast' (Screwfix 16633, or similar); it's perfect for repairing toys, cupboards, pan handles, oh, and mitres...
     
  11. bonnie the botch

    bonnie the botch New Member

    OI My face is not ripped, its just the way the wind changed when i was squinting as a boy.
     

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