Could any of you kitchen fitters out there give away your secrets to getting really tight, gap free mitres on kitchen cabinet cornice, in really tight areas. Many thanks.
You need to find the corner angle then use half of it set on a mitre saw. Trend make the Anglefix for this purpose. http://www.trendmachinery.co.uk/otheraccess/
...and glue them all together with 'mitre-fast', or such, <u>before</u> lifting into place and screwing gently down.
Thanks for replys, All mitres are 90*, its just that the cornice is virtually touching ceiling and very difficult to get all measurements correct. Also i read somewhere that screwing cornice down to mitre box will ensure ther is no movment when cutting.
If the cornice is virtually touching the ceiling in places, aren't you going to have a hard time screwing it down?
hiya I think you will strugle with a mitre box unless the cornice is real wood you will rip the face out on the out stroke, save your self and all fair men the pain and anguish and hire a leccy becky for the weekend, good luck and just take your time and get rid of everyone.
Yep, im gonna screw them from inside the cupboard dont forget the little white plastic caps that fit 6 and 8 screws to help hide them http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/sea/searchresults.jsp;jsessionid=VNPPNWZWRYC33CJO2C3CKTQ?dyncharset=UTF-8&q=plastic+screwcaps&n=&pn=1&pd=1&pi=1&cn=1&cd=1&x=8&y=8 big all
I presume you are going to use a non-electric mitre saw? You have to ensure that the cornice sits perfectly level on the mitre saw base, exactly as it would do on the top of your wall unit. You need to make sure it <u>doesn't move</u> - ie: tilt under the force of the saw - whilst you are cutting. If you can't clamp it down, but end up holding it in your hand, make sure you saw particularly gently: keep the saw blade <u>horizontal</u>, make <u>full</u> use of the blade length (long strokes) and apply only the <u>slightest</u> downward pressure on the cornice (almost let the saw cut under its own weight). Finally, to avoid bonnie the botch's ripped face (sorry about that...), make sure you always cut <u>towards</u> the exposed face of the cornice; the backstroke shouldn't damage the cornice covering if you are doing controlled, gentle strokes. Oh, and do invest in some 'mitre-fast' (Screwfix 16633, or similar); it's perfect for repairing toys, cupboards, pan handles, oh, and mitres...