Cutting Beech with jigsaw

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by screwfox, Apr 19, 2005.

  1. screwfox

    screwfox New Member

    I'm about to cut my solid beech worktop (40mm thick) with my new Bosch professional jigsaw using Bosch Progressor wood blades. Could anyone give any advice on the following

    1) Which speed to use
    2) Which pendulum action to use (if any)

    Ta very muchly
  2. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    heeelllooo screwfox

    personaly i wouldnt use a jigsaw as my first or second choice for beech worktops circular saw or router with jig

    if you have no choice and a strait even edge is essential[eg not cutouts]

    i would practice on thick timber fist[44mm] with pendulum on fix batton dont push to hard and see if the blade wanders [would be best to try on the worktop on a non crutial cut first]
    if after several passes you absolutly sure its cutting dead square[assuming an upcutting blade] cut underneath front to back using a new blade for every cut [you can use these blades as new on other less crutial work]

    big all
  3. jasonb

    jasonb New Member

    I'm with big all, unless it is a curved cut use a circular saw about 3mm from the line and finish the edge with a router. For cutouts I plung cut with my cordless circular saw and finish the corners with a hand saw.

    You will find it hard going with a jigsaw and the blade will tend to deflect.

  4. screwfox

    screwfox New Member

    Thanks for the replies, I've got to cut out for the sink & hob so I'll probably use my circular saw and finish the corners with the jigsaw, but I've also got to scribe 3m against a very irregular stone wall, so I'll have to use the jigsaw. The supplier has already done the joining cuts & biscuit slots etc for where the 4 pieces meet.
  5. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    yep the jigsaw is the kiddy for scribbing just take your time
    my bosch is accurate but when it starts to go off line it always goes to the left so just in case i always cut with the waste to the left
    now once the blade starts to wonder [bend underneath]go off line you will have a near imposible job to get it back on line
    the surface will be very close to the line you have drawn
    but underneath the blade will be twisting into an ever tightening curve untill it pulls the top off line
    at this point you have got to retrace your steps and very gingerly try and ease the blade back on line if it wont go back on line fit a new blade start the cut a few mm away from the offline cut and carry on then you go back in the opposite direction to remove the offline cut

    clear as mud eeehhh

    having said all that if youve got a good saw and blade take your time this wont happen too often

    big all
  6. jasonb

    jasonb New Member

    One tip that will make the scribing easier is to cut a rebate in the back of the W/T say 10mm x 30mm this will leave a 10mm thickness to scribe and makes life a lot easier(assuming 40mm total thickness.

  7. panlid

    panlid New Member

    good tip jason.
  8. screwfox

    screwfox New Member

    Tnanks again for the replies especially big all and jasonb, I like the rebate idea and will probably go for it.
  9. dunc

    dunc New Member

    I have been cutting sodding Ikea worktops this week. I use a router for the straight cuts. Some cuts require a jigsaw. Make sure you don't use a jigsaw blade that is the slightest bit blunt. Change them often. I also trim the rear edge and somemof the corners with a planer.

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