cutting plasterboard already on walls ??

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by tph1, Oct 24, 2006.

  1. tph1

    tph1 Member

    Need to put some new insulation into my bathroom ceiling. This obviously means pulling the old ceiling down. In order to stop warm moist air finding its way into the ceiling (roof) void, I need to cut the top few inches off the existing dot and dabbed plasterboard walls, then extend the insulation and new ceiling right into the perimeter of the rooms.

    My question is, what is the best way of cutting plasterboard drylining that is insitu ie already stuck to the wall - hand saw, angle grinder or circular saw ??? any thing I should be careful of ??? (apart from losing all my fingers with the circular saw !!)
  2. gint

    gint Member

    careful of any hidden pipes or shower cable running up walls behind p/board
  3. M.I.G.

    M.I.G. New Member

    using any type of power tool wil be extremely dusty!

    I would mark the line, score it with a craft knife then chip it away with a hammer and sharp chisel.
  4. Rotozip or Dewalt DC 550 designed to do this, you can adjust the depth of the cutter so it only just penetrates the board.
  5. tph1

    tph1 Member

    thanks guys
  6. tph1

    tph1 Member

    Thanks for everyones advice - I've actually used an angle grinder (as I already had one) with a stone wheel. Very clean cut and not as much dust as I thought. Biggest problem is chipping off the bonding dabs. The stuff is unbelievably strong !
  7. nearnwales

    nearnwales Member

    why did you need to take a few inches off the wall ... pull the ceiling down tidy the edges and board tight to the walls,, your introducing another crack
  8. yorkshireboy

    yorkshireboy Member

    Who advised you to use this bizarre method ????
    How are you going to patch up the gap you have created all round the wall without it looking a mess.
    Also the warm moist air can pass freely through the ceiling anyway unless you have a vapour barrier
  9. tph1

    tph1 Member


    I agree it sounds a strange way of doing it, but one of the problems I had was warm moist air rising into the roof void. This was mostly from holes cut for downlighters, but also from the gap behind the plasterboard (yes, I know plasterboard should be fully dabbed at perimeter edges / tops & bottoms). By cutting the plasterboard down, I can introduce the foil backed ceiling plasterboard (vapour barrier) from wall to wall, and also re-arrange insulation.

    I'm fairly confident a plasterer can patch up the wall / ceiling junction to a good standard - although agree it will be more susceptible to cracking in the future...

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