Damp, cold bedroom wall with serious condensation problems

Discussion in 'Builders' Talk' started by Alicegal, Aug 9, 2019.

  1. Dam0n

    Dam0n Active Member

    R.e the holes in the wall.

    Make up some lime mortar with some 3.5nhl (hydraulic lime)

    Mix 3 parts sharp sand to one part lime and mix to a fairly stiff consistency.

    Fill the back of the hole and the bottom with some mortar and start putting some rocks in. Fillings any gaps with more mortar. Use your hand but make sure you wear latex/nitrile gloves. That'll be fine.

    Don't use cement.

    I agree the chipboard will help the bounce as you are securing each joist off each other with sheet material. It doesn't seem to me as a proper "repair" though.

    In an ideal world you would repair the joists, fit noggings and sister where needed. Then fit floorboards down. If this would done properly there will be no bounce and you have fixed any issues for the future. At a push why don't you repair the joists as above and then fit the chipboard.

    I don't see any issues with the weight on the joists. But maybe upload your joist size and someone will dig out a loading table.

    Have a cup of tea and take a breath. It'll all work out fine

    Edit: just seen you have planned to glue the boards onto the joists. I wouldn't think this a good idea at all for any future access. Anyone else?
  2. dobbie

    dobbie Well-Known Member

    Chipboard is a cheap and nasty material, which should be confined to lining skips to get more rubbish in.

    Do the job properly and use timber floor boards, you have a period property and not a nasty new build wendy house.

    Use the correct materials that would have been used and that is timber, not nasty chipboard.

    Too many people nowadays just want to lash things up with nasty materials for speed, rather than doing it properly and using the correct materials.
    koolpc and Dam0n like this.
  3. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Well-Known Member

    This is setting off alarm bells. Are they a treatment company? or a builder? Why do they need up-front payment? Please give back word on the chip flooring - say you have changed your mind on the material. Gluing chip down may well stiffen up the floor a bit, but it's not sympathetic to the building and as dobbie says is a horrible material to use as flooring in an old building. My concern is that you will still have enough flex to make the chip creak and squeak.

    With a couple of board clamps, a sharp saw, some proper flooring screws and a power driver, fitting floorboards is a fairly straightforward DIY job. The only real risks are falling through the ceiling and screwing through a service. Get the first board in nice and straight and they'll go down like lego - days work for two of you.

    If you spend a little time sorting out the joists a bit that will help as well.

    We see far too many people on this forum who have paid up front and then post pictures of carp jobs asking what they can do. Unless you have a good relationship with this contractor, I would be wary

    FWIW I have NEVER paid more than a little deposit up front for work. Payment when complete or at least stage payments on stage completion is the way to work, and generally good tradespeople are happy to work this way. Pay on the nose for a good job, and you build up a good relationship.
    Alicegal likes this.
  4. Alicegal

    Alicegal Member

  5. Alicegal

    Alicegal Member

  6. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Well-Known Member

    To be fair they look decent. I think you will get a fair job looking at reviews. The chip chip choice is yours. Noone can say it will not be fit for purpose but you can tell that peeps here are not keen on the idea given the very small cost difference to use traditional boards.
  7. Joe the Plumber

    Joe the Plumber Well-Known Member

    'Woodworm company on Wednesday'? This is reading more and more like a disaster. Have you found ANY live woodworm? If not, (and they can't live in centrally heated houses incidentally) you haven't got woodworm. There may have been some 100 years ago that have left some holes, but there's no point trying to kill them now. If you've got children, the last thing you want to do is spray toxic chemicals in your home.

    I implore you to cancel all these appointments and get some advice from someone who actually knows about period buildings. Start by asking your local council's conservation officer for recommendations.
    Dam0n likes this.
  8. Joe the Plumber

    Joe the Plumber Well-Known Member

  9. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Well-Known Member

    Thats a little harsh joe but i know where you are coming from. They do have a decent track record. Would i use them? Prob not. Will they totally rip you off. Prob not. We cant know if the worm is live or old. If its live treatment will help. I think there has to be some benefit in the doubt or alicegal wont know if she is coming or going. @Alicegal this is the problem with forums. Ask 10 people and get 10 opinions.

    In summary. You have or have had worm. Treatment wont do any harm. You have to recover the floor. Chip is a cheap and not sympathetic solution that may still leave some issues. Boards are better. A stud wall with insulation will make your room warmer but there may be some risk of interstitial condensation. The concrete render outside is not helpful to the long term health of the building as it traps moisture.
    Alicegal and Dam0n like this.
  10. Alicegal

    Alicegal Member

    Thank you Mr Rusty and everyone for your extremely helpful comments and advice. I have learned a lot from your expertise and experience - thank you for taking the time to help.

    Our woodworm is live (beetles found, fresh frass and new holes. (seen by us and the surveyor from the contract company.) Perhaps due to the draughty windows and cold house? Who knows ...

    For peace of mind, we'll go ahead with treatment. It's water based and solvent free (hope it's not just water!) and apparently not harmful to pets. Re-entry time is 1 to 2 hours.

    We'll be taking all your advice on board with the stud wall. We'll see how it goes this winter. If there are still issues, we'll hack off the very thick cement render outside in the spring.

    The joists will have to remain as they are for now as we have already been sleeping at my Dads for too long. Our little girl desperately needs a bedroom as soon as possible. There was a young couple living here over the last 5 years and the floor never collapsed, so I just keep telling myself it should be OK! A local builder friend said he could put up a non- structural metal I beam downstairs running across the middle of the exposed joists - attached to the stone wall on one side and resting on a timber support at the other side. He said this would help stop some of the bounce and we could perhaps make a feature out of it. I know some of you are probably cringing, as this wouldn't be in keeping with the old building.... Needs must... Taking out joists, pulling down all the plaster and lath etc just isn't an option for us at the moment.

    I love the idea of putting down new floorboards, but as we will be carpeting over them, we'll try out the weyrock for now. The contractors will mark where service pipes are underneath for future access. The idea with the chipboard is that it forms one solid layer, spreading the weight and movement over the whole floor, rather than having weight on individual floorboards. With the floorboards we had before, there was far too much bounce in the floor/ceiling.

    Thank you everyone (in particular - Mr Rusty). We are very, very grateful for all your fantastic advice.
  11. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Well-Known Member

    Thanks. BTW, IMO the steel is a good idea. There's a whole market out there for false beams to cover steels....http://www.periodcreations.co.uk/ Hope it all works out. Post back when it's done. I'm out for now.
    chillimonster and Alicegal like this.
  12. Alicegal

    Alicegal Member

    Last question... On the count down to building our stud wall this weekend! Could anyone recommend a good permeable membrane to buy for one side of our stud wall and a damp proof membrane for the other side please? I'm drowning in choice online! Thank you!
  13. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Well-Known Member

    Alicegal likes this.
  14. Alicegal

    Alicegal Member

    Thanks Mr Rusty!
  15. Alicegal

    Alicegal Member

    Hi guys, ok I have another question please. We are just about to order all our supplies to build the stud wall with a 5cm cavity against the old stone wall wgixh has part plaster (see photo. We are reluctant to remove the remainder of the plaster as it is solid. The rest of the wall wasn't). Rather than have a stud wall and cavity, with air bricks venting into it from outside, couldn't we just stick insulation to the stone wall? If so, what are the best materials to use and how should we go about it please? We've been losing a lot of sleep over this stud wall! We really don't want to lose space in the room or drill through the thick cement render and thick stone wall to put air bricks in! Is it possible to stick insulation onto the cold stone wall without a cavity? Any advice would be much appreciated! Sorry to bother you again. Thank you!

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