We applied 3 coats of Rustins danish oil to the underside of a new solid beech worktop, and stopped because the smell was extremely bad. A smell that has not dissapated after almost 2 weeks, and still is very strong and unpleasant. I have used teak and linseed oil previously and know that their smells tend to disappear after a few days. So this does not seem normal to me. Is it possible for the oil to turn rancid? I have attached a photo of the oil as I am unsure of the colour this should be for a clear matt finish. The wood it treated looked fine, slight orange hue but ok.
How much time did you leave between the coats. You need 3 thin coats with at least a day between coats. That way it stinks for the days between each coat and then for a day after the final coat, but not much beyond that. How well ventilated is the space? How warm is the space?
Colour does look a little dark, that could be the photo and even if it is I’m not sure what it indicates. It may be old stock check the container for dates. Application of danish oil is simple but to get the best results you need to build up the finish in thin layers and allow each one to fully cure before applying the next. Two things happen if this process ids not followed, one the finish takes an age to cure because uncurled oil is trapped beneath the skin of the next coat so it remains tacky in the worst cases it seems to never cure. Two, because it take such a long time to cure the smell of the evaporating solvents lingers longer than normal. If the worktops are fitted now, the cupboards will harbour the smell much longer being a confined area than if left in the open air to cure. For future reference the best way to apply danish oil is to flood the surface and spread to cover whole area, keep moving the finish around with a rag, brush or sponge, if you get dry spots where the oil has completely soaked in apply more oil, after about 15 minutes wipe the surface clean with cotton rags, don’t leave any finish on the surface, leave to fully cure. Most likely some of the grain will be raised and feel rough to the touch, apply the next coat with a fine scotch brite pad working along the grain, this will both smooth the wood and help worth the oil into the grain, again fifteen minutes and wipe completely clean, repeat until desired finish is achieved. Danish oil is nothing more than very thin oil based varnish ( as opposed to water based) if you left a puddle of this on the worktop you wouldn’t be surprised if it remained sticky and smelly.
Cheers for the responses. The application was made in a well ventalated and slightly chilly kitchen because so, but each coat was dry prior to the next application by a lint free cloth. No stickiness or dampness prior to the next coat or on the last coat, and coated roughly 4 hours between coats. The smell isn't solvent based, its a different smell that is unpleasant. I have decided to bin the 2.5l tin of Rustins Danish Oil in fear the smell never goes away and order Osmo Top Oil which I have been advised is better.
I have used Rustins Danish oil for decades and never had an issue, however it has to be applied lightly, any remaining on the surface after 15 minutes should be wiped off with a cloth, and 24 hours between coats. Anything different to that and it may never dry properly.
Have used it for decades and never a problem - let it dry, 8 hours minimum and then maybe 24 hours for subsequent coats. You do get used to working with it. I recently had a very rush job to do and needed to oil some teak. I omitted to clean the surface first, but it did not effect it. Then, the only oil I had was a very old, maybe 8 -10 years, with a crust in the tin. A long piece of dowel was used to pierce the skin and drag out some oil, which was a bit gooey, with small half set lumps that would squash. However, it went on fine, cured well and the finished result was excellent, and no odour after a few hours. So, even after 10 years the oil is still good and not gone off. And one warning, in case the OP is unaware. Take care with the rags and scotch pads used, store them flat and preferably outside as they can spontaneously combust.
The op only left 4 hours between coats which strongly suggests 'operator error' in application. Wiping the surface with white spirit may help to eventually dry without odours.
Because if you don’t you run the risk of causing an imbalance in the way moisture is taken up and released with changes to the relative humidity which can cause the timber to cup or warp. It is best practice to treat both sides of a worktop or table top etc the same.
For Watco Danish oil. Have you guys not read the directions on the can for application? I just used a gallon of it 2 days ago. Directions, flood and wipe around, let sit 15 minutes, flood again, let sit 15 minutes, wipe dry. And as far as smell goes, until all the solvent evaporates out, it’s going to stink. 1-2 weeks depending on temperature and humidity it may take longer. I just did pantry shelves and they stink so I won’t bring them in from the garage until they don’t. I used it on pine window jambs and closet shelves a year ago and it took 1-2 weeks in warm dry air before there was zero smell anymore. I love using the product verses stain and urethane. It just needs a place to fully dry out before bringing it into a living space.
Difficult to read the instructions on a tin of Watco as it’s not sold in the UK But thanks for your input on a six month old thread