Delchem side entry ball valve - water reaching overflow

Discussion in 'Getting Started FAQ' started by Mr Freeman, Oct 3, 2018.

  1. Mr Freeman

    Mr Freeman New Member

    Hi guys, sorry have to ask a total noob question but I'm not sure if I can adjust this ballcock in my main tank (picture attached)? It looks like a toilet ball valve rather than for the main tank. The white plastic rod is completely rigid and won't bend, and I presume the washer is wearing out as the water level is reaching the overflow pipe causing a drip early in the morning around 7.00am. You can see in the picture the water is near to the overflow even in the evening. Is it easier to just replace the whole thing for an adjustable one, or can this one be tweaked to make the ball sit lower in the water and therefore push the valve in sooner?

    I've pushed the ball and plastic rod up to highest position and it does close off the water completely, so maybe the washer is ok? I just need the position of the ball to be lower to enable it to close the valve fully before it reaches the overflow. I think the wrong valve was fitted here as it's letting the water get too high even when it was working ok. Thanks for any ideas!

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Oct 3, 2018
  2. Heat

    Heat Well-Known Member

    The small plastic bolt is the adjustment. Would also need new diaphragm washer inside.
    But you are correct, that valve is better replaced with the all brass equivalent - a part 2 ballvalve.
    Not expensive at approx £5 (or £8 for Peglers valve) in Screwfix.
    You really do not want a valve plastic threaded tail cracking outside the tank under mains pressure.
  3. Mr Freeman

    Mr Freeman New Member

    Thx Heat for the reply. I think I will get a new valve at some point, but for now do you mean I can adjust the small metal nut which sits on the plastic bolt? Do I just turn the plastic bolt itself or can I tighten/loosen the nut to adjust the height of the water shut-off point? If so would I tighten or loosen the nut to make the water stop a bit lower? I don't want to tinker too much in case it weakens the plastic. Sorry once you know this it's so simple lol. Thx
    Last edited: Oct 4, 2018
  4. Heat

    Heat Well-Known Member

    The little metal nut (some are actually plastic) is just a lock nut.
    You need to slacken that back a couple of turns anti-clockwise and the plastic bolt will turn towards the valve body (clockwise) to close the valve off sooner.
    You are better to adjust this all by first turning off mains supply to ballvalve and open some taps to lower the water level in the cold water tank a few inches so to allow the valve arm to lower and take the tension off the wee plastic bolt to make it easy for yourself.
    Some of those bolts have a slotted end at thread end for using a screwdriver, but others you just use pliers to turn the head of the bolt.
    I personally wouldn’t mess about with that valve. Just get an all brass part 2 valve fitted. It has adjustment only by means of the float (ball) on the L shaped arm
    KIAB likes this.
  5. Mr Freeman

    Mr Freeman New Member

    Ok, many thx Heat for the feedback, exactly what I was hoping for. I will try tweaking the nut a little (it really only needs a small amount to stop the water reaching the bottom of the overflow). But I'll also probably get the brass valve at some point (when I find an extra adjustable spanner! :) )

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