Hi, Just ordering a Dewalt DWS520 Plunge Saw. I'm getting 1mtr and 1.5 mtr rails and want to be able to join them ocassionally. I see the jointing pieces online - here - only doesn't make it clear if you need one or two to do the job. Some clever chappy knows I'm sure. Many thanks
1 only it fits quite snugly in the center of the track and secured by 2 allen screws on each half i store mines inside the second bit off 1.5m track so its to hand when i need to join the tracks big all
forgot to metion you should aim for 250mm [10"] more than what your cutting if accuracy is crutial as you need around 7" off track overhanging at the start off the cut as the saw is accuratly guided at 2 points on the base one at the front and one at the back if you try and cut part off the track you have to slighly lift and wiggle the saw to locate on the track and 3 inches as you come off the other end so the blade is fully finnished cutting before it starts to exit the track in otherwords you need 2.7 to cut 2.440 boards or 1500 for 1220 cross cut big all big
i would fully agree about clamps on thicker or more valuable material on sheet material you dont need it as long as the material is flat not once have i had a problem but then i do keep the rubber strips fairly clean and do apply hand pressure to the track also not shureiff you can overlap the track as i suggest and clamp as i suspect the clamps use the central channel to clear the machine underneath big all
BIGALL the clamps do use the central channel but they are design to slide upto the workpeice so if you have a 1000mm rail across a worktop the clamps will slide right upto the worktop underneath the rail !!!!!!
Hi Big All and blueassedfly, Thanks a lot for your clear guidance - all taken on board. Ordering two x 1.5metre rails plus clamps. Many, many thanks.
first thing you need to do is trim the rubbers on the edges i personaly have only done one edge because you can with an adapter use your router on the track the way to do this is join the tracks together no gaps lay on a bench/table overhanging a few mm cut from the centre off one track through the join to the middle off the other reverse the tracks and cut the other half the reason for doing it in 2 halves is because if you enter or leave the trackwhilst cutting the unsupported end is unguided and can run off line by one or two mm not a lot you think!! but because the rubber is what you line up with the mark to cut it/it will mean every time you use it its out by 1/2 to 1 mm make shure you mark in pencil the cut edge as the uncut and cut edge will look the same as youve only trimmed 1-2mm off big all
i bought the 28v model a few months ago i would have bought another make if anyone else did a cordless as ive always found dewalt to be poor quality, this has proved to be true with this saw it looks very cheap and plasticy ive noticed every now and then a load of rubber cuttings so something is wearing some where the battery's are useless, - they dont last 5 mins if cutting anything heavy and are forever cutting out under load i had to cut some 2' 10" firedoors down to 2'9" a few days ago(1/2" off each side) and i managed 1 side per battery its fine upto about 25mm but any more and it struggles as for the clamps, i have some but never used them and cant see i would need to, if the blade is in the wood i cant see how it could slip i just use 1 1500mm rail then move it along and find this works ok for what i need rather than having to fix rails together all the time it works well for ripping down arcs if you put a piece of skirting at the back of the rail a pair of fold up saw horses are useful, like the stanley ones screwfix sell, chuck a piece of ply or old worktop ontop and you have a good cutting bench
manweb, the clamps are VERY useful if your cutting a high gloss panel @ £55 a sheet cos they stop you accidently moving the rail during the cut and ballsing up the panel!!!
yes i suppose it would make you feel a bit more at ease cutting something slippy like that but i would think it is more for peace of mind