Die Lorelei 2017

Discussion in 'Project Photos' started by Dr Bodgit, Apr 26, 2017.

  1. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Indeed you've posted that link before...I prefer something non-permanent, just seen video on how to seal basins using plumbers mait and my error was not putting on enough to seal between the nut and threads. £2 Waste kit and properly applied plumbers mait should sort it.
     
  2. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Found another bloomin leak last night...first end feed coupling on the hot flow from the shower pump. Had been dripping slowly, onto the airing cupboard floor and also onto the towel radiator pipe that goes through the wall to the bathroom and then making the bathroom wall wet. Same issues as before - back of fitting hadn't been heated fully so solder hadn't taken, but is barely visible.

    So that's 3 leaks in all, none of which were my doing! At least I found it early evening so was all finished making good by around 10.30, not 2am as was the case before.

    Lets hope there aren't any more leaks :mad: Basin is also fixed with a basin waste kit from SF. Now need to replace the cistern inlet valve which doesn't completely stop filling (possibly as I bug-gered it with pliers).
     
  3. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    :eek::eek:
     
  4. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Yeh that's what happens when you get a professional in. To be balanced, he did first fix without any chance of properly testing it and these leaks only came to light when I started using the bathroom with hot water going through the pipes and melting flux residue. I dry pressure tested the hot to only around 0.8 bar, cold was up to 3 bar (as there's no large container like the cylinder to pressurise and going off like a bomb). I do wonder a little if there are other potential leaks that might come to light some weeks down the road...on the plus side, nothing is going to be tiled/sealed in for ages yet.
     
  5. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    I must be doing something wrong,leaks is something I don't get when soldering.:(
     
  6. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Me neither, but I don't have so much faith in my own ability so I always check with a mirror to ensure joint looks good and reheat if necessary...might not be the neatest but this way I don't get leaks! Pros are doing it all day so think they are good at it, get complacent and don't heat joints fully/check.

    Much easier with the adjustable flame torch now, pipe doesn't overheat, just wait until solder flows, leave heat on for another second or so, jobby jobbed.
     
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  7. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Well that's the mirror installed...demister takes a while to have an effect, need to turn it on before taking a bath. Two pin toothbrush plug was difficult to push in too (is bottom right side), guess its gonna have to stay plugged in.

    Neighbours didn't appreciate me tapping the rawlplugs home at around 9:30 in the evening as they were banging on the wall...sod 'em! Was woken up by their yapping dogs at gawd knows what hour this morning.

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Progress :) Nothing worse than yapping dogs and I have a dog, but mines the type that rarely barks and would let a burglar kill me for a sausage.
     
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  9. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Wee update, last few weekends have been spent hanging the new Stelrad softline radiators (7 of them), taking up floor boards, ripping out old plumbing, notching joists, figuring out the best way to route new pipework and cutting/bending copper to said rads. A lot of time spent preparing, the enjoyable part of routing copper is a fraction. Will get to soldering once all pipework is in place.

    Here's an example of what I spent some time figuring out how to achieve, rad is back of lounge, might have big radiator in new extension at some point so decided to drop down in 22mm then branch off in 15mm to rad and spurs which are capped off.

    Pipe to TRV (other end) is hidden behind rad, plumber suggested doing it this way, nice n neat.

    [​IMG]
     
  10. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Very neat work.:eek::)
     
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  11. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Thanks, but you haven't seen my soldering yet!! Wanted the two spurs in parallel, but just could make it work, hence the 45 degree bit. Had a couple of street elbows in 45 and 90 which helped.
     
  12. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Kind of looking forward to this weekend...all the central heating pipework has been cut, bent and is in place. So now I can get on with soldering it all and hopefully getting the boiler back on.
     
  13. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Hope we having photo's of the leaks...:D

    And don't forget to remove the guts of the drain valve when soldering, (seen a few peeps who melted the washer) & putting it back afterwards (seen a few peeps who forgot to as well)
     
  14. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    C'mon, you think I'm that daft to leave the washer in? :oops:

    I'll be dry testing it as I go so should pick up any leaks in good time. Cleanliness of copper is the key, bit of flux, sufficient but not over heat the joints and job should be a goodun. Got a couple of hard-to-get-at joints but not impossible.
     
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  15. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Spot on Dr B.:)
     
  16. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    I have heating :)

    And just in bloomin time.
     
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  17. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    And no leaks!:eek::rolleyes:
     
  18. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    No leaks! I pressure tested it in sections, when I came to add on the boiler/cylinder/towel rad/hall rad, I did hear hissing but t'was one of the nuts on the diverter valve that was loose; not sure if that was the plumber or me as I'd fitted a gate valve on the cylinder flow.

    I could also hear a worrying faint noise coming from behind the boiler panel, near the pressure gauge. It sounded like a mechanical timer, a fast 'tick tick tick' and the pressure dropped by 1psi over time. However it couldn't be a leak I reckoned, as the boiler hadn't been touched. Whatever it was, its fine.

    I need to drain down at the weekend as I read MC3 is good for a week max, I didn't fit the wee air vent where the pipes go up and down a bit, and that's on both front and back bedrooms, will decide at the weekend - I do have easy provision for adding them though. I also need to balance the rads, bought a couple of magnetic thermometers with spring clamps but they're useless to fit properly. Am looking on Ebay at a differential thermometer.
     
  19. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    That why I prefer to use Sentinel X400, as it can be left in 3-4 weeks.

    With regards to differential thermometer, I have one of these below, can't fault it, & I use velcro to secure wire to pipes, as I ain't going buy another pair of K type pipe clamps, as I have two pairs & a Fluke 52 differential thermometer, & I have misplaced them.[​IMG]

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-...327619?hash=item33d47d83c3:g:2JgAAOSwqKNZo4gi
     
  20. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Bathroom is progressing, unbelievable how many issues I've had, obstacles to overcome. What you think is a small jobs takes bloomin ages.

    Sink, loo and units are now in and done and tiles chosen. Finish is supposed to be Cashmere Gloss, but its more of a sheen finish. Am talking with the suppliers to find out what's happened as the sample and doors we saw are definitely gloss! However we actually prefer this sheen...more classy.

    [​IMG]

    Edges where MDF has been cut is treated with MDF sealer. The bloomin sink template was out by 10mm on the rear, but managed to salvage it and strengthen the rear narrow part at the same time. Piece of 12mm ply stixalled to the underside and another piece of 6mm ply stixalled to the side. Rear of sink is about level with the worktop inside edge and silicone will hide it.

    [​IMG]

    View of worktop, sink and tiles, darker stripped tiles will go on right hand wall above bath forming a feature wall, plainish tiles along above worktop and on bath end wall where the shower will be.

    [​IMG]

    Mixer for bath and shower, 25mm ply is now in place ready for tiling, 'B'ath and 'S'hower outlets are opposite way round

    [​IMG]

    We have 2 doors for the right hand unit, this with the smaller door fitted exposing the loo roll; not as nice to look at but a lot more functional. Floor is overboarded with 6mm ply and screwed down every 6" with panel on left hand side so I can remove this to gain access to void where there are plumbing and electrical services for the extension in due course (under the mirror).

    [​IMG]

    Don't have photos of the bath...its a double ended bath 1800 x 800. Combined filler/overflow is now properly fitted and bath turned around with filler on the far side as it should be.
     
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