Die Lorelei 2017

Discussion in 'Project Photos' started by Dr Bodgit, Apr 26, 2017.

  1. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Got the EPDM on layered: supplied 19mm T&G, VCL, 50mm celotex, 11mm OSB then 1.2mm EPDM on that. Thanks to Bodgit Jnr for his help, couldn't have done it on my own. The EPDM weighs a ton.

    Managed to put the EPDM on the "wrong way round"; both sides are identical other than one side has some faint blue writing which can hardly be seen. Its facing up, only noticed/thought about it once one half was laid :eek:

    Struggled to get the screws to grip in the T&G: with 19mm T&G, 50mm celotex and 11mm OSB (80mm total), bought 75mm screws as didn't want them to start poking through inside. Towards the end I countersunk the OSB a bit so a bit more thread would grip, should have done that at the beginning.

    Had loads of glue left over, used 5l + a bit of the 2.5l water based adhesive, and probably not quite half of the 2.5l contact adhesive around the edges. It does stick good, it ain't coming off. Need to cut the edges and finish it with eaves boards, all in good time.

    Its flippin hard work, took all of Sunday until about 8pm, crouching down to screw, glue etc. Once the OSB was on I used a reciprocating saw to cut the edges to size, its rather rough round the edges but it'll be covered by the EPDM and eaves boards. Used the supplied 50mm tantalised foundation timbers around the edges of teh roof to make a perimeter for the celotex to sit within, those on the long sides I cut at 10 degrees so the outer edges and eaves boards will be vertical.

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  2. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Progress!:eek: looking good.:)
     
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  3. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Looking good I'll check for blue writing on google earth later :)
     
  4. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Its that faint I hadn't noticed it! No ones gonna know other than me...
     
  5. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Well this weekend was a right fiddle faff of nothing bits that I didn't give much thought too, but took an age. However the sub-floor is done and ready for electrics:
    • Trimmed the overhanging EPDM ready for the eaves boards, will help stop the edges being caught by the wind at least until the boards are fixed in place.
    • Fitted the 8 intermediate legs using 150mm x 150mm. There was still little bit of spring in the unsupported joists which I thought would disappear once the 28mm T&G floor boards are screwed down however I decided to add some additional support using 4x2. Not pretty but does the job, most are supported by the paving slab padstones so they can't move over time.
    • Notched out joists and insulation to take the electrics, ran 6mm SWA to the cabin, not yet terminated.
    • Checked I hadn't left anything on the gravel before putting the insulation down; filled in some gaps as the width of the floor is just over 2 1/2 board lengths of 1200mm
    That's it, doesn't seem that there's much to show but now I can get on with the electrics then get the floor down.

    You can see the additional 4x2 supports here as well as the 150x150 legs. With 28mm T&G added it'll be quite solid I reckon.

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    With the clutter gone I can see just how big this cabin is :cool:

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    Showing the various cut outs, 1.5mm T&E light cable will go from here to the front, and a 2.5mm final ring around the outside feeding 11 double metal clad sockets.

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  6. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Looking good.

    One thing with those additional support using 4x2 have you treated them were they sit on the paving slabs, to stop moisture soaking up & rotting them?
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2017
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  7. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    There's a DPC under them - you can just see it on the lower left timber that sits on the slab, 1st photo. Same with the big legs. The timber is pressure treated too.
     
  8. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Still waiting for the extra window. Chap from Skinners Sheds (who has been most helpful) arrived with a window but it was 11" too short - mine are a "long" version. Just found out that one of the fitted windows doesn't lock as the frame appears to be about 5mm too wide, so the male locking nibs don't engage behind the female plate, rather they can just slide past it.
     
  9. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Quick update. Delivery of the extra window is further delayed due to their warehouse burning to the ground :( One of the existing windows won't lock so that might need to be replaced too. :(:(

    Cabin electrics are pretty much in - ring final, sockets and lighting wiring up to the switch. T&G floor boards are going in and with the long weekend looming hope to get the inside more or less finished. I also built a temporary step/platform outside the doors as otherwise its a step too far for Doris Bodgit.

    Then painting it outside (Sikkens), eaves facias still need to be put up.

    Hope y'all have a great bank holiday weekend :)
     
  10. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    You going to spray under side of T&G flooring with lumberjack before fitting.
     
  11. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    No, I thought about it (using the other preservative I bought from the same manufacturer) but decided that with a VCL under the floor boards it isn't warranted.
     
  12. billhicks2

    billhicks2 New Member

    Looks good, but isn't that black stuff over the slabs just standard weed membrane?
     
  13. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Looks like it.:)
     
  14. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

  15. billhicks2

    billhicks2 New Member

    Sorry I thought it was meant to be the dpc, silly me
     
  16. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    C'mon give me some credit :p
     
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  17. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    The inside is just about done, lights installed and electrics all connected up. This is the CU in the cabin, same connection deal at the house end with the 6mm SWA connecting to 32A MCB straight off the 100A isolating switch, just not as neat so won't be posting that photo :oops: The piranhna earth nuts are a really neat bit of kit for earthing the SWA shield. Fortunately I had the appropriate crimping tool and used 6mm earth cable.

    Did a cursory check that the final ring is in fact a ring and LED plug checker on both circuits, initially powered it up using a fly lead off the house supply which I know has a recently tested RCD. Will get signed off by my cousin one day (he "designed" it) :rolleyes:

    More photos of the inside to follow when I take them... @KIAB the lights are fantastic!

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  18. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member


    Neat!:eek:
     
  19. The neutrals from the ring should both be in terminal 1.
    Both the earth wires from the ring should also be in terminal 1 and the earth from the SWA moved across to the earth symbol on right.
    Not trying to criticise just some advice as your cousin will pull it up.
     
    KIAB likes this.
  20. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    Thanks - understand about putting the final ring connections on the same terminals.

    The SWA earth can't go on the right hand side connection as that's in use connecting the earth bus to the metal case. At least I'm pretty sure it is but will double check.
     

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