Die Lorelei 2017

Discussion in 'Project Photos' started by Dr Bodgit, Apr 26, 2017.

  1. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    I like Sagano Oak because it mentioned "moisture resistant" not sure how well it would perform in a cabin but due to my recent damp base, I thought It may suit a cabin anyway.

    But I do see what you've done with grey windows frames and grey electrics etc all looks very nice.
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2017
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  2. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Quick update, not that I have a lot to show for my efforts over my last week's holiday at home...painting :rolleyes:

    First, had a great time at Oktoberfest, in Munich, where the real Oktoberfest happens. Had 3 litres of strong beer and was a bit delicate the morning after but it had to be done. Love my German work colleagues :p

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    So last week I was off work at home, thought I would crack on with the cabin and get it finished. Well I got most of the painting done, all 5 coats of it around the cabin. Still got 2 coats of Filter 7 to do under the canopy/roof boards front and back, paint the windows and doors including the now delivered extra window that's sitting by the garage (only took Skinners 3 months to sort it), cut out and fit the window, fix the lights (2x flood and led strip), fit the eaves boards that are now painted, clear the cabin and lay the laminate floor. Then I should be done!!!

    This Sikkens light oak is a bit orangey, not sure why, may be due to the wood underneath. Looks more like antique pine! Hope the graphite grey wood work will look OK. Nothing I can do if not. That Filter 7 really is a lovely finish though, should protect the wood for some years.

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  3. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    For some reason light oak is always orangey on light colour wood, got caught on that some years ago.:mad:

    Your colour don't look too bad from a distance..:)
     
  4. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Indeed, looks more orangey with the sun on it though. Could be worse, could be bright blue!!
     
  5. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    I nearly went for a blue colour of some sort. :eek:
     
  6. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Haha but now you're just left feeling blue!!
     
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  7. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    I do like blues for my colour choices but it's wood cabin and didn't seem right.

    Glad I picked the orange tinted variation of light oak from Sikkens.
     
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  8. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Extra window is in, some eaves boards on (although I may position them lower so they don't collect crud) and Sikkens Rubbol primer in graphite grey is on the windows, doors and frames. Window casements and doors are inside. I think the contrast between the light oak and graphite grey ain't at all bad and the window helps break up the side wall.

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  9. KIAB

    KIAB Well-Known Member

    Rather Tickety-Boo.:)
     
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  10. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Looking nice Indeed.
     
  11. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Better than blue!
     
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  12. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Looking more like the finished article now with a few finishing jobs remaining including those eaves boards to finally put up. Very pleased with the end result of around 80 hours painting. The graphite grey and Sikkens "orange" contrast each other well :p

    Also have the outside lights and laminate flooring to do before I can move in.

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    The extra window really lightens up the place

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    Found some nice locks for added protection on the doors, all 3 locks use the same key, gonna have to rip them off the frames to get in now. Couldn't fit hinge pins due to the geometry of the hinges and opening but the doors can't easily be lifted off as they're recessed in the frames.

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    Vents top and bottom on the north end, stainless steel louvres on the outside, cheap mesh vent that opens/closes on the inside

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  13. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Doesn't electrics take a loooong time. Thought I'd crack on at the weekend, get the outside lights on (quick job I thought) and then lay the laminate floor on Sunday. OK, didn't start work each day until midday but only got the lighting done and even then not complete!
    • Two stainless steel wall up/downlighters with PIR, fed off the back of the lighting sockets that are off the middle light switch. Doris Bodgit says I mounted them too high :oops: about level with the top door hinges.
    • 5m LED strip in the canopy, fed off the lighting sockets (transformer with stupidly short cables)
    • Two 30w PIR floor lights, fed off the 3rd right hand light switch
    This way I can do the manual override thing on the wall and flood lights independently, and the LED strip can be fed via a timer socket thingy. So kinda 4 lighting circuits independently switched.

    Trouble was, I bought 12 m of arctic cable, in the end none of this was used outside so could have use T&E or black round flex. Had two runs of this going along the top to the far wall and flood light (separate circuits), was half way along clipping it and thought..."this length is going to be tight" and it was by about 0.5m, so took it down. Will get some 1mm 3 core and earth flat grey cable from SF instead which will look better.

    Laminate going down this weekend, and eaves facias, then will be done!!
     
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  14. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    It's all going to well :)
     
  15. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Don't forget Blinds, heating, alarm, cctv, rugs, coat hooks, desk, chairs, mini fridge, tv/pc screen.... and more :eek:
     
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  16. snappyfish

    snappyfish Active Member

    Talking of heating, now it's getting a little colder, have you warmed the cabin up yet and if so how well does it retain heat being insulated floor & roof?
     
  17. Devil's Advocate

    Devil's Advocate Well-Known Member

    That is such a nice cabin, Bodge :)
     
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  18. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    And now with lights...

    [​IMG]
     
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  19. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Got a 700W oil filled radiator in there, so not powerful at all. Went from 8 degrees to 12 degrees but the thing kept clicking off even when turned right up. It feels warmer though as there's no draught, damp or concrete.
     
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  20. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Well-Known Member

    Finished!!! Well 99.9% done, just the second set of end eaves boards to put on in the spring when I'll take them off, clean up and replace with mastic joining to the EPDM. There's crud wedged between boards and EPDM at the mo.

    Inside looks nice, pleased with the Wickes Arreton grey laminate which was quite cheap at just over £10/sq m and easy to lay, with 5mm super gold comfort underlay. Dimplex 3KW convection heater with fan boost soon gets temperature up, although 12 degrees is enough while I'm working.

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    Wiska box top left, takes 3 core and earth and feeds PIR up/down wall light via arctic cable and 30W PIR flood light on that side. Triple light switch feeds 4 lighting circuits, see below. Additional locks are IFAM X5 rim locks, these and the main door euro lock all on the same key. Couldn't fit hinge pins due to the door geometry but doors close inside the frame so doors can't be easily lifted off. As secure as it can be although doors can be crowed barred off (its only wood). Windows need a clean!
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    Cheap plastic vents do the job inside, can be opened/closed by sliding and easily replaced if they crack. Polished stainless steel louvre vents outside.
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    Here's the lighting gubbins. Double socket fed from middle switch, outside PIR wall lights fed off from the back of the socket, socket itself feeds the 5m LED strip light in the canopy. 2x 30W flood lights each end fed from right hand switch, left hand switch feeds twin dimmers and the inside lights. So kinda 4 lighting circuits, works well. Wago box houses terminal connector for the 12V LED strip. Stupidly short cables lengths on the LED transformer, mains cable is just long enough should I want to put it on a timer switch.
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    Decided to lay the floor across the width of the cabin for two reasons (a) it goes perpendicular to the floor boards so the floor won't buckle or wobble should the boards bow or warp (b) the cabin width is a knats kneecap short of 2.5 lengths of laminate so is ideal for getting a nice neat pattern and minimal wastage.
    [​IMG]
     
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