Diesel start-up

Thanks for those further useful tips to my vans problems. I reckon that a jump-lead direct to the glow-plugs (they are wired in pairs) would give a definite answer as to whether the control unit is faulty or not.

Will check the fuel-lines and filter, as well as the filler cap. Funny the problem started the same day that I put some Redex diesel injector cleaner in the tank.The exaust does smoke a lot when the "missing" is happening.
Pretty sure I have a glow-plug problem though.

No sign of any contaminants in the engine oil, and the coolant seems to be normal too. Doubt if the cylinder head gasket could have been defective all these years without some sort of sign. The radiator and 'stat were replaced three years ago.

I believe there has been an air-lock issue with this engine, as the top hose has a bleed-screw in it, now defunct, as it sheared-off some time ago. Better repace hose I think.

Thanks, Js.
 
No problem.
Most diesels will smoke a bit when cold but will plume blue/white smoke when diluted with air greater than the required amount.
As Ardlui points out pay particular attention to the fuel lines and joints as any air entering will cause the same symptoms. It would also account for loss of power as the lift pump will not be able to supply the fuel demanded for prolonged higher engine speeds but could be sufficient at lower demands.
Damp spots on the lines is a give away, the usual culprit is around the top of the tank area where all the wet c* lies, sometimes hard to find!
To eliminate the filter substitute the feed pipe to the pump from the filter (if practicable)with a clear plastic tube. (you may have to bleed the system) .Run then stop the engine, look for the fuel running back to the filter- you will see bubbles in the line if it is. It may take awhile if the draw is slight as I suspect it is.
 
Right so "cam-belt has about 22K on it, being renewed in march 01" nearly 9 years ago? Every 3-4 years max, regardless of mileage - the belts deteriorate with age. I'd say it was a near-miracle if you haven't lost some teeth.

And the head gasket is blowing coolant and you can only do 50mph! And you think your problems are glow plugs!!!!!

Give it up.
 
I always thought cam-belts worked on mileage. If the belt does go, then that would be it I reckon.

Generally the van runs well, and as it is just a "mobile tool-shop", gets me around for what I need to do.

Bought up in "make do and mend" age. Guess I will have to do something before next MOT though.

Bet I would find it hard to find another van that returns such a high MPG though.Difficult to get through a gallon a week. Almost forget where the fuel station is!


Js.
 
I agree with Ardlui,

I used to work for DAF fixing lorries.
It could be something as sipmple as a poor sealing/seating fuel filter.

I don't now anything about modern small diesels, but this was the kind of fault that we experienced on the HGV's if the fuel filter seal wasn't changed or was badly fitted when renewing the fuel filter.

Good luck!
 
Sorry I've not replied lately, just managed to get back on Screwfix site after a month "off" following a RAM up-grade to the computer. Just found out my routers "MTU" setting needed adjusting, and that sorted it.

Still have to start van on jumper-lead to glow-plugs for cold starts,but once its warmed up, it starts normally.

Expect new controller will cost more than the vans worth!

Problem should go away if air temp ever gets above 15 deg. C or so.


Js.
 
Try switching on the ignition but not actually starting the engine for 30-60 seconds, to warm up the glow plugs and combustion chamber. Then turn off the ignition for 1 min. Then switch on the ignition again, wait for the glow plug light to go out on the dashboard, and start the engine.
 
It wont be cam belts slipping, because you refer to vans in the plural sense. They wont have all slipped. Just something to do with the starting procedure or the diesel fuel that you are using.

By the way you are not using old diesel that has been stored since the summer oe autumn are you? As winter diesel has additives blended into it to stop it 'waxing up'.
 
Sorry, I misread your first post as plural vans, that was wrong of me,. I realise it is one van you are talking about now.

Hopefully it isn't the cambelt, but you do need to change it as mentioned by others. They still perish with age.

Try my other start sequence suggestion first though, and the question re fuel age. But then get that belt changed - you are living on borrowed time!
 
Connect a manual override to the plugs, but use an illuminated switch,in clear view.

Save the planet, give it a full engine service. Double check the plugs, because they get hot dose not mean they are ok. Check the resistance of each one. You should be able to get the values from your local service centre.
 
They are all new plugs, replaced a couple of months ago. Engine will not start-up when very cold, as I believe only two plugs being activated. They are wired in pairs from two separate relays in controller. The temperature sensor is faulty too, as the plugs are shutting down too quickly. They should carry on glowing for some time after engine starts, depending on how cold it is.

All sounds very complicated I think. No doubt there are good reasons for the system to work in this way.I can replicate this with my trusty temp.jump-lead. Cheaper than a new controller! Checking the plugs resistance is difficult,job to get an accurate reading. The recommended way of testing them is to connect them,on a bench,to a battery,and see if they glow fully.



All this information I got from my Haynes Manual.Rather not think about the cam-belt. If it goes, it's goodbye to all that! Can't blame it on the fuel. Tesco's best!

Js.
 
The method you have stated for testing glow plugs is quite correct. Becareful though, because they do get very hot, and will glow bright red!

Unless you have crocodile clips or similar on your test leads you can be tempted to touch the plugs to make good contact with the leads. The plugs may be very hot already but not at the glow stage. Ouch!

Loo
 
Thats a rule of thumb method , the correct method is to test resistance against correct values.
I must admit i test them on batt most of the time.
It's not unknown to have them DOA out of the box, thats the time to use the ohmmeter. I would take your jump lead to the cab and route it through a switch , saves all the hassle on initial start up. regards .
 
Durite do a pattern glow plug controller for around the £100 mark.

Part number 0-133-13

If it runs ok using jump leads on the suspect pair of glow plugs I would be inclined to change the controller.

Check out the links

Regards

Phil
 
In fact, looking at the diagram for the controller, check the outputs with a multimeter from pins 1 and 2 (big terminals in the middle of the controller). If you have lost one (as I suspect) you could use the other one as a switch wire for a power relay.

You would have to work out the current drawn by the 2 glow plugs, and fuse the relay occordingly. This would at least save you £100 on a vehicle you only use occasionally.

http://www.durite.co.uk/pdf/7/07.7%20replacement%20components%20-%20glow%20plug%20controllers.pdf

http://www.thetoolboxshop.com/0-133-04-durite-12v-glow-plug-controller-4250-p.asp
 
Thanks for those links MRTUTZ. Can't find the exact one I want, a Nagares TRMA 12-12, and noticed they are quite expensive. I think I will try and get a 50Amp 12 Volt relay, and operate it from a push-button switch in the cab.

Perhaps I can arrange for a new relay to be operated from one of the working relays in the old controller, as suggested earlier, and that should make things pretty well automatic as it should be.

Have measured the total current draw (4 plugs)on switch-on at just over 50 Amps.




Js.
 
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