DIY Kitchen fitting advice

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by ME69, Nov 19, 2017.

  1. ME69

    ME69 Member

    Will these both suit what I need?

    I'll see if black Friday throws anything up.

    What fittings should I use for the wall units? They will be going into internal plasterboard walls, and external plasterboarded walls, where the plasterboard has been dot and dabbed on.

    I've also got a small island (2 x 600mm pan drawer units, to have a 900mm worktop above), presumably if I fit the floor first I can just screw the feet of the legs into the wooden floor to hold it in place?

    We're having an undercounter freezer, can I run plinth straight across the front of it or do I need to vent it somehow? I think I've seen it vented in a friends house.

    Advice noted ref floor being level, I'll check that out once the old floor is up. It is concrete throughout.

    My wife is only 5' tall, so given that I'm going to have to cut the plinths anyway I'm thinking that I'll keep the legs fairly short.
  2. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    I'm mostly Bosch here,but do have a bit of Hitachi & a odd Makita, so no experience of the Evolution, but it gets good reviews, as for Titan, wouldn't touch it myself, no spares available.

    But do l
    ook out for the Bosch GCM800SJ 216mm sliding mitre saw, last year Black Friday, it was down to about £145, well worth the extra £45 over your budget.
    Same with the track saw might see some good bargains.
  3. ME69

    ME69 Member

    Anywhere in specific to look for deals on Friday?
  4. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

  5. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

  6. AlvyChippy

    AlvyChippy Active Member

    Attached Files:

  7. ME69

    ME69 Member

    Thanks for all the advice, its great.

    I'll keep the questions coming.....

    One of the side runs goes:

    110mm gap to door
    End panel - 18mm
    Unit - 500mm
    Under counter freezer - 600mm
    End panel - 18mm
    Unit - 600mm
    End panel - 18mm
    L shape corner unit - 900

    110mm gap to door
    End panel - 18mm
    Unit - 500mm
    unit - 600mm
    End panel - 18mm
    Extractor - 600mm
    End panel - 18mm
    Unit - 900mm

    So it all lines up, but the end wall unit is right up against the wall. I understand that ideally you want a fill there, and I've got the space to put another end panel (or plinth etc) in there, but then it will be 18mm out from the bottom. I could add another end panel in the bottom run to compensate, to have double end panels after the corner unit. Or I could leave it 18mm out of line and hope no one notices. What would you recommend?
  8. AlvyChippy

    AlvyChippy Active Member

    as much envisioned (not 100% clear), but adding panels is better solution indeed.

    That'd be naughty! :p
  9. Mr Rusty

    Mr Rusty Screwfix Select

    no-one notices an extra 18mm, well nearly no-one :p:eek:

    seriously, do what looks right, rather than what might be technically correct. My kitchen wall leans back by 30mm (either that or my cooker full height unit leans forward along with everything else) - no-one notices because I've hidden the gap.
    KIAB likes this.
  10. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Spot on Mr Rusty, it's a skill you gain over time.:eek::)
  11. phil2412

    phil2412 New Member

    could you change the 500 units to a 450 and where the corner unit is down the bottom you would have a 50mm fillet piece in the corner on the wall? if im getting it right.
    AlvyChippy likes this.
  12. Tom86

    Tom86 Member

    Either that or you can do end panels too, you'll just need to cut them twice. I think it's worth it, rather cut them two times than have a brand new floor damaged. I'd never do the floor first...

    You'll definitely need a plunge saw, I've never had a cheap one so can't tell you nothing about Titan. I have Festool, could recommend, but it has no sense to spend such a money if you need it on one job only. Titan should do a job.

    Evolution is very good mitre saw but you won't need it for a kitchen, it'd be just wasting of the money. Don't buy it if you don't need it for something else.

    Re freezer: follow the instructions of the manufacturer.

    Re wall units:
  13. WillyEckerslike

    WillyEckerslike Screwfix Select

    I have a Titan plunge saw which i use with a Triton multi tooth blade and Makita guide rails. It's acceptable for what i need and although the quality of cut is only marginally better than my Milwaukee 18v saw (run along a straight edge) - but that's pretty good, the dust collection is heaps better because the 18v doesn't have any! Peter Millard's video does sum it up quite well. I don't doubt the Festool fans for a second however I couldn't justify the additional cost for something that isn't used regularly every day. Who knows? I may come to regret my choice later on but it's serving me perfectly at the moment.
  14. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Look at the Freud blades, they give a lovely clean cut.
    WillyEckerslike and Dr Bodgit like this.
  15. Dr Bodgit

    Dr Bodgit Super Member

    CGN likes this.
  16. KIAB

    KIAB Super Member

    Dangerous things a Freudian slip,had a few classic ones over the years.:oops:
  17. ME69

    ME69 Member

    Thanks again for the advice.

    I've no option to swap the 500mm wall unit to a 450mm now, so I'll stick 18mm between the wall and the wall unit, and stick an extra 18mm fill between one of the other base units.

    I need the mitre saw for flooring / skirting boards too, so it wont go to waste.

    The integrated fridge freezer doors have been supplied undrilled, the fridge/freezer I've got has the sliding rail fitment, so I'm going to need to drill and fit the hinges to both of the doors.

    How straight forward is this, if there is a high chance that I'll co(k it up then I'll get someone in to do it, the doors are pretty pricey and it has to look right!?

    I see that there are a lot of jigs around, can anyone recommend the most fool proof way to do this?
  18. GoodwithWood

    GoodwithWood Active Member

    Hopefully you have got your kitchen in and are well pleased with yourself. For others using this thread for info regarding fitting their own:

    When reducing the height of your legs remember you need enough height to ensure you can get your slot in/integrated appliances in.

    If you put a floor in after the units (which I would never recommend) then make sure your flooring goes all the way to the wall for any appliance recesses otherwise you will have a nightmare trying to get a washer/dryer or fridge/freezer out for servicing/replacement.
    Jord86 likes this.
  19. ME69

    ME69 Member

    It's mostly in, and the flooring is down. I went under the washing machine and tumble dryer, but didn't think about the dishwasher and under counter freezer.

    I'll check clearance before the worktops go in next week.

    On that note, should I add ventilation to the plinth in front of the under-counter freezer?

    There is nothing in the freezer manual except to say 'ensure appliance has sufficient ventilation'. If so, what's the neatest / easiest way?
  20. That is usually to cut a neat section - say 1" deep - from the top of the plinth (where it won't be seen) for almost the whole length of the plinth under the freezer.

    Mark a line 1" down from the top, and add nice curves at each end coming up to the top edge. Jigsaw from the back. Seal the cut surface with paint or varnish - use black (or even white!) if nothing close to the plinth colour is available.

    I presume this freezer sits on the floor, and there is no actual unit it sits inside? Ie - no back base unit panel? What could also be worth doing is to drill some holes along the back side panel edges of the adjacent units near their tops. This would allow any circulating air to pass through behind the back panels of these other units.

    But most of the circulation will be from cool air going in that plinth gap, up behind the freezer, and out in the small gap between it and the worktop.

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