http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16343/Plumbing/Radiator-Valves/Angled-Radiator-Valve-15mm-x-1-2 These are on offer from screwfix right now and are cheap as chips- just the job! Replacing all the radiator valves can be a bit of a ball ache at times (I know) and can seem never ending when you're only on the 5th! Top Tip These are chrome valves so you will need to apply some paste on the joints to make them water tight. Good luck, Tappy,
That's a joke, right??? Or do you really fit these?? No wonder they stick/get blocked. You need 75592 and associated lockshield.
Where and how did you add the p3. Have you bled all the rads. Have you checked all valves are fully open and the pins aren't stuck? Wouldn't have thought you needed a power flush on a system that's only two years old?
associated lockshield. That's a joke, right??? Or do you really fit these?? No wonder they stick/get blocked. You need 75592 and associated lockshield. ----------------------------------------------- imran, Those valves are SIX POUNDS EIGHTY FOUR PENCE EACH!!! Have you not heard of the recession? If you want to get through the credit crunch you need a re-think on pricing up with these valves. What I like about the valves I've recomended is that the unions are ground in on the radiator side of the valve, much better than the compression cones on the more expensive ones that you would use. Just goes to show that the more expensive they are does not always mean that they are the best! iulykid, For the job in question fit the ones I've recomended they will be fine. Please don't fit any thermostatic valves at this stage either for they could be the cause of some of the problems. Trust me, I know what I'm talking about. Tappy,
I'll stick with my Terriers and TRV4s thanks. Never have a problem with them. And I don't pay anywhere near that price. Trust me if you can't afford £7+VAT for a rad valve then you can't afford to employ me. There might be a recession but the same rules for business apply. Make a reasonable profit! I'm fecked if I'm going to struggle to pay my mortgage just so my customers have it easier. Just as I'm not going to fit cheap components that I'll have to go back and maintain for free.
What you are suggesting is against Part L building regs. Thermostatic Radiator Valves (TRVs) are required on every radiator except in the room with the room thermostat.
If I wasnt a plumber (ie you) I'd remove the rads attach your garden hose to each and blast them through, not hurt buckets and funnels you need the force and flow of the mains... Then where your rad valves are connect a hose from your outside tap to one of them so you can have mains flushing into the system and another hose coming to a drain, do one at a time, jubilee clip the hose onto your pipe etc that you've attached to the rad valve and have plenty of towels ready incase one blows off...if that works all well n good if not call a pro...oh don't forget to add your inhibitor as you fill
only prob I can see with doing this is that potentially you could move some iron oxide into the boiler, so od install a magna clean pro 2 on the return just before the boiler....they're worth their weight in gold
actually £100 for a magnet is a rip off, go to a £1 shop and get £10/20 quids worth of magnets and stick um on the back of the smallest rad, take that rad off once a year and flush it out, same result, gold for the price of scrap iron,
Have you tried neodymium magnets Tom, I have one which I keep handy to help me identify metal within plaster, very strong pull. i think this is the type that is used within these magnetic filters, but probably a lesser grade.
imho jitender, these magnet filters are a gimmick, sure they attract some muck out of the system but its a drop in the ocean, they're not a cure and they're not a prevention , I always think of them as ' a fool and his money' , though i think also that clever folks can get fooled also with clever marketing and what us northerners call codoligy, codoligy is codding people, it started back in medieval times, a man wore a cod piece in his pants, a cup over his private parts to 'cod' people he was well endowed,
I've installed them on most of my new customers systems and after seeing the amount of solid pieces that come out I will always recommend them...don't get me wrong I'd rather power flush but most of my customers won't pay for it without good reason...so it's nice to show them every time I go there for other jobs just how much crud is getting pulled out of their systems...I've had call outs to ppls boilers with blocked heat exchangers where they probably weren't pf'd properly in the 1st place managed to clear the blockage and install a mag pro2 and no problems since-but a lot of solid pieces caught! For me they are def worth havin
I do like your idea about the magnets on the rad but crud from the rest of the system can still get into those tiny tubes of the heat exchanger before getting stuck to your magnets...maybe sellotape a shed load of magnets to the outside of your return pipe to the boiler with a lever valve either side so you can remove it lol
A two year old system should not be exhibiting the faults you are having. Have you had any problems with the pressure dropping, so you have to top the system up? If so, the inhibitor will have been diluted. Get a Sentinel test kit, drain off a sample of the water and test it. Let's hope that you haven't been charged for non-existent inhibitor.
I've had cleaner in my system for 2 weeks. Intend to drain tomorrow. Have bought rubber coated magnet with a thread in the middle, which I'll attach to my drill and put it on hammer. Hopefully will attract any deposits while moving from inlet to outlet. Will close off other rads and attach hose to bleeding valve to help to disturb and move any sludge. Magnaclean already fitted. As to boiler, will remove heat exchanger and clean with acid