Does this look ok? (JG Speedfit)

scimgx

scimgx

New Member
There was copper pipework in place previously (with a bathtub) and now, for a shower tray, basin etc, the pipework has had to go below the floor.
Am not familiar with the reliability of speedfit and this is what the plumber installed. Is this ok? Would copper have been better?
Also, the plumber instead of cutting floorboard at joists (so they could be put back again) cut them between joists instead, so now will have to find suitable replacements. He has no meaningful response to that apart from the thinking that flooring above them would make them strong again or that they could have some wood put under them to strengthen them :rolleyes: this incident alone made me question his suitability for this kind of work.

In addition, some of the elbows will not be able to go below the floor, so presumably will need to keep above floor (mainly in corners etc). Will likely have to put the shower tray on risers or similar now it seems (quadrant, right hand side and basin will be on left).

Any thoughts on the above work or anything glaringly wrong? TIA.
 

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Update: this will now likely get changed to copper because of potential issues with leaks and how connectors are sitting (not allowing flooring etc. to be closed properly) and sounds from sudden pressure movements.
 
Would also not be happy if that is the boiler condensate running into the waste pipe. Not enough fall on it and if a plug forms, floor up etc. Get the whole job redone.
 
For inaccessible underfloor pipework I would go for soldered copper, though I admit this is a somewhat unfashionable and dated view these days.

The floorboards should, as you say, have been cut at the middle of the joists. Replacing them and joining them “with a bit of wood” will inevitably lead to issues in future with the floor moving and squeaking at the joint. The best option would be to trim the boards to the mid point of the joists and then use an OSB sheet the same thickness as the boards for the flooring (or replace the entire floor with OSB). You could of course insist on replacement floorboards.
 
Definitely best to get it replaced and done properly, get the new flooring... and while it's up, check the condition of the closest joist on view, looks fairly decayed r/h end.
 
Is the same ‘person’ (not gonna say plumber !) changing this mess over to copper ?

If so, insist on pipe clips being used and all pipework supported at regular intervals and can’t see a single length of secured pipe in above photo

Weird method for a pro to use all those push fit elbows, T’s etc as they’re fairly expensive when compared to copper and end feed fittings
 
OP,
As above - hire a plumber to do a proper job.
Just about everything that can be seen in your pic, including the plaster slapped onto shaky looking brickwork, is wrong.
Where, & how, is the WC situated in this bathroom?
Where do you intend the shower tray to lie?
 
arrow said:
Would also not be happy if that is the boiler condensate running into the waste pipe. Not enough fall on it and if a plug forms, floor up etc. Get the whole job redone.
Click to expand...
Should the condensate pipe be separated from waste? There seems no other way to have it exit otherwise as far as I can tell.
 
HarryL1234 said:
For inaccessible underfloor pipework I would go for soldered copper, though I admit this is a somewhat unfashionable and dated view these days.

The floorboards should, as you say, have been cut at the middle of the joists. Replacing them and joining them “with a bit of wood” will inevitably lead to issues in future with the floor moving and squeaking at the joint. The best option would be to trim the boards to the mid point of the joists and then use an OSB sheet the same thickness as the boards for the flooring (or replace the entire floor with OSB). You could of course insist on replacement floorboards.
Click to expand...
I think so too, copper soldered is at least time tested. Speedfit is still relatively new and leaking under a closed floor is definitely a concern. It will be difficult to access once closed up. Looking at replacement floor boards at this point.
 
Mark DM said:
Definitely best to get it replaced and done properly, get the new flooring... and while it's up, check the condition of the closest joist on view, looks fairly decayed r/h end.
Click to expand...
Seems so, unfortunately. Good point re joist, will get that looked at.
 
DIYDave. said:
Is the same ‘person’ (not gonna say plumber !) changing this mess over to copper ?

If so, insist on pipe clips being used and all pipework supported at regular intervals and can’t see a single length of secured pipe in above photo

Weird method for a pro to use all those push fit elbows, T’s etc as they’re fairly expensive when compared to copper and end feed fittings
Click to expand...
I would hesitate to use the same guy TBH and I think most people would? Would you allow the same person to correct the work or look for someone else?
I agree, not the cheapest option on fittings either.
 
qwas123 said:
OP,
As above - hire a plumber to do a proper job.
Just about everything that can be seen in your pic, including the plaster slapped onto shaky looking brickwork, is wrong.
Where, & how, is the WC situated in this bathroom?
Where do you intend the shower tray to lie?
Click to expand...
Looking for an alternative at the moment.
Believe that's bonding on the brickwork. Not ok?
WC is in the left corner (out of view) opposite to where the pipework for basin is (vanity unit).
Shower tray will be offset quadrant on right hand side of pic (1000x900).
 
OP,
Thank you for replying but your reply doesn't take me any further ahead.
Once again - there's no easier or softer option so getting a plumber (ASP before the Christmas new kitchens/bathrooms rush starts) would be your best bet.
 
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