Has the guy measured the temperature at flow and returns? If there is a radiator close to to the boiler with the lock shield valve open too much, it may be conning the boiler into thinking the system is hot. If the bypass valve is incorrectly adjusted, it could have the same effect. Having the system all on 15mm will make it harder to balance, TBF. Are the F&R isolation valves under the boiler fully open? It will be interesting to hear the thoughts if the new plumber. And apologies, I have just seen where you previously mentioned new boiler
Please find more photos in the below link of the boiler and its pipework: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yiji3kn7xzes6zq/AABxkRNfLgW5E8cS0OuTo4Q9a?dl=0
The boiler is on ground floor and the central heating pump is on the 1st floor in the airing cupboard with the hot water tank and controls. There is a radiator near the central heating pump on the 1st floor, but we have tried both things - closing it’s lock shield all the way and also opening it only half a turn.
One thing to check is if it’s piped correctly. The cupboard looks ok but wondering if the boiler f&r could be crossed. What pipe gets hot first when using the system. The left or right?
When the boiler is on, have a look at the pump and make a note of which setting it’s on - there will be a light marking one of the five options. I’m wondering if it’s been set on ‘1’.
I wondered this but (maybe naively) thought the plumber he had around would have checked this so didn’t say lol
Thanks @dcox and @pppmacca43 . Yes the previous pump was on setting 3 and the current one is also on 3
These pipes. Work out what one heats up first. if it’s piped wrong it may cause issues as everything else looks correct.
Hi All, @exbg I found a new thing today. When I switch on my central heating but keep my hot water off from the control panel, the boiler does not fire up. Only when I switch on the hot water does the boiler starts up. Could that be the issue that the new boiler installation was not done properly and that is why the central heating does not work as expected.
Hi, a few problems here. 2nd pump is NOT required, I have 16 rads with one pump (the same as yours), all work perfectly. Check with previous owner, EXACTLY what was replaced, and why. Has any pipework been changed? It's not all 15mm pipework, pipes leaving the boiler are 22mm also pipework connected to the pump. The programmer looks new, but I can only see one cable connecting to it, are there others? One cable can not control your system. Your last comment, Shanks1986, suggests a wiring fault exists. Could do with some more pics of your pipework adjacent to the pump etc. And a pic of the motorised valve plumbing A fresh pair of eyes/plumber might be called for.
@Tricky Dicky Thanks for replying. I have added more pictures in the link: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/yiji3kn7xzes6zq/AABxkRNfLgW5E8cS0OuTo4Q9a?dl=0 I can only see 1 wire coming out of the programmer. The older 3 port valve was not working correctly so a new one was installed a couple of weeks back just before we installed the new pump. I have gone back to the plumber who installed the boiler last year to come back and take a look so hopefully he has some better ideas.
The programmer looks new, has this also been replaced ? It requires at least 4/5 separate cores L N HW on CH on Earth (although not used) also maybe HW off ! The cable does not look thick enough to support 4 or 5 cores, and therefore can not be correctly used, ie the heating can not be separately selected, as you have mentioned. Could also be a wiring fault with the 3 way motorised valve.