Drilling 40mm hole , 5mm down from ceiling

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by R.W_Carpentry, Apr 9, 2014.

  1. R.W_Carpentry

    R.W_Carpentry Active Member

    On a job today where the client needs a run of 40mm holes creating a 100mm wide channel drilled through a 200mm oak beam, the top of the channel needs to be 5mm max away from the ceiling . Problem I face is that there isn't enough room to have the drill level that close to the ceiling, now I've thought of a few other ways but will take a while longer , but ultimately anyway the builder managing the project has said he'll cut holes in the ceiling so I can get the drill up there.
    But before he does so, can anyone suggest an alternative method of doing it? obviously with a 40mm bit I'm only 25mm down from the ceiling line with whatever I use. Thought maybe an angle drill could do it? but don't have one to check, don't mind getting one though if it were possible.
    Really the holes should of been done before the ceiling went in or even when the timber frame was manufactured but hey ho.
     
  2. vivaro man

    vivaro man Active Member

    RW, several years ago was on a refurb and a contractos was doing something similar using an angle drill. Think it was a Makita and as I remember it had plenty of grunt.

    The only other suggestion I can think of is to use an air driven drill with a lower body profile than an electric drill. Problem there is the size of the compressor and the receiver/tank to drive the tool.

    Good luck.
     
  3. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    20mm holes from each side entering at 45mm from the ceiling and finishing the 5mm down at an angle in a "X" pattern
    then finish with a chisel
     
    Last edited: Apr 9, 2014
  4. R.W_Carpentry

    R.W_Carpentry Active Member

    Thanks vivaro, may have a look and measure of the chuck on a few angle drills if I get the chance ( any excuse for new tools!) but really the easy option for me is to let the builder cut the ceiling and make good again...just thought I'd try and be nice and help him avoid it:p
     
  5. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    If you use a 10mm wood bit to stitch-drill up the left and right sides as high as possible, you can use the bit at an angle to get up there 10mm at a time. Then go along with a 25mm bit, so you take out the bulk, then chisel the rest.

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
     
  6. R.W_Carpentry

    R.W_Carpentry Active Member

    This is an idea I considered, using smaller drill bit and chiseling to size , but what work I'm saving the builder I'm then giving myself as such and since he's happy to cut the ceiling, why not have an easy life for a change;)
    Drilling straight with correct sized bit is also probably easiest way to keep everything as clean as poss, the holes are for garage door chain track to go through so need to be nice and level etc.
     
  7. Cheburashka

    Cheburashka Active Member

    Only thing I could suggest is if you have room to use a really long extension on the drill bit, That will reduce the angle your drilling at.
     
  8. big all

    big all Screwfix Select

    just a thought have you considered the the structural angle
    if this is a structural timber the maximum hole is 25% and central on the timber depth and not elongated
     
  9. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    Setting aside any structural issues. Just reading your post the way I read it you need to end up with a 100mm x 40mm slot all the the way through a 200mm beam. Its going to be awkward!

    I reckon best bet would to make a template with two 40mm holes in it to guide a hole saw to get it marked out neatly from 1 side. I think a chuck on an angle drill is 42mm so that would get you to within your 5mm target from the ceiling. Temporarily fix the template and hole saw it both ends of the template. The core will still be in as it way too deep. Whizz the template off and then using a series of longer 6mm bits eventually take the pilot through to the other side of beam. Then holesaw back the other way. So by know you will have both sides end points marked up. Join up the lines either side with a multimaster to create the slot outline each side and then it will just be a question of hogging out the bulk of what needs taking out with augers, multimaster and chisels.

    Hard graft but possible!
     

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