Electric Oven Connection

S

Steve A

Guest
Hi Folks,

We are re-fitting our kitchen, and have a couple of electrical questions that you can help with. The situation is as follow's.
  • There is a normal 45A cooker isolation switch above the worktops, and a CCU lower down that will be behind the units. The new oven is rated at 2.7KW, and the manufacture states it requires fusing. The cooker circuit is a separate circuit with a 30A fuse at the consumer unit. Therefore the oven can be connected to a 13A plug\socket.
  • However here is the dilemma, there are no 13A sockets within reach, and I do not want to run the cable through the work top to any of the high mounted sockets, converting the CCU to a socket is also not feasible as this would not be accessible should the fuse blow in the oven plug as the units are secured to the wall, and we do not want to cut an access panel out the back of the units.
  • So my solution is this, to use 2.5\4 mm cable from the CCU connected to a trailing socket that could be left on the floor, and accessible by removing the plinth on the units then plug a 13A fused plug from the oven to this, this would allow the oven to be protected by a 13 A fuse, this connection to be accessible and still be isolated by the current cooker switch and still on its own circuit, this would still be the only thing on this circuit. Any comments?
The second issue I have is the socket for the washing machine, which will be hidden behind a unit and inaccessible, again I do not want to run cable through the worktop or a spur into the cabinet as this would require altering the actual cabinets. This is a standard 13A socket connected to a high mounted 13A FCU.

So my idea is this to change the socket to a 20A connection unit connected to a 13A trailing socket again left on the floor and accessible via the plinth, the appliance can then be connected to this, no issue with warranty as the original cable and plug is intact and protected by the fuse in the plug and the FCU as before, again any comments.

Thanks

Steve
 
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change the CCU for a socket. plug oven in and away you go.if the fuse in the oven plug blows ,you would have to take the oven out to find the fault in the oven which caused it to blow. isolation provided by the above worktop switch . can socket for w/Mach go into base unit next to it ?
 
Thanks, but that would still leave me without the ability to change this fuse.
 
Surely if you are refitting your kitchen then all the electrics can be designed in within the plans. What you do is is get the old kitchen out and then mark out where the new units are going and design the electrics accordingly - it really is a bit bodgy to have trailing sockets on the floor to plug stuff into Steve..its a new kitchen m8.
 
Ha. way less bodgy than the electrics put in by the original builders, but yes you are right, if the budget allowed adding spurs, moving points and plastering walls etc.....
 
Thanks, but that would still leave me without the ability to change this fuse._******** what fuse can you not change.the one in the oven plug ? if it did blow ,you would inevitably have a fault in the oven !! before changing the fuse you have to establish what caused it to blow...that would require the oven to be removed for examination ,thus giving access to the plug
 
Yep, as it would be inaccessible behind the unit, removing the oven would not give access to the plug\socket as it (the oven is in a different unit to where the CCU is located, if it was behind the oven you would be correct.
 
Change the cooker isolation switch to a fused connection unit.
 
Change the cooker isolation switch to a fused connection unit.
Have you tried getting 6mm conductors into an FCU's terminals? In any case, I suspect the existing 45A cooker switch is a different form factor to an FCU.

OP: you say
the manufacture states it requires fusing.
What size fuse do they specify? You could wire the oven direct to the CCU and change the MCB to 16A. That is what you'd get sur le continent.
 
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