End block flooring question please?

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by mrs erus, Oct 9, 2018.

  1. mrs erus

    mrs erus Member

    Hi everyone,

    Im renovating and because of runaway costs on ground works and roofing we are now on a seriously tight budget (ie nothing left) and whilst removing the roof, we also needed to remove the trusses which are seriously lovely wood, approx 4" x 6" x 6 meters+ long and I have 4 of them, plus other trusses slightly smaller at 4" x 4" but the same wood and same length (no idea what wood but its a hard wood and theres loads of it....) so, Ive done some research as I hate waste and love wood floors and recycling, and thought rather than scrapping it, burning it, or building a shed out of it, it would make a lovely end block floor especially as I have a budget for a simple kitchen or floor but not both.
    The one snag to this is, although I have laid floors before, laminate, floorboards, tiles etc, I have never done anything like this and the floor its replacing is a rather rubbish mix of floor boards, old quarry tiles and concrete. Its all level but Im not sure what preparation I have to do as all articles I find are for either wood floor (so they put down ply underneath which will then take it higher than the concrete and tiled areas) or for solid floors alone?

    Should I put ply down across the whole area to get a really flat level and a single surface or am I ok to lay directly onto the floorboards (which Ive secured with spax floor screw and it appears rock solid now) and simply continue onto the solid floors?
    What adhesive should I use? I have read a really good post on this forum from years ago, and like the idea of the oil/wax finish rather than varnish?

    Any ideas (other than telling me to steer clear?)
    Thanks in advance
    Mrs E.
     
  2. DIY womble

    DIY womble Well-Known Member

    Bump , am going to enjoy this
     
  3. AlvyChippy

    AlvyChippy Active Member

    Pictures would help to help you :p
     
  4. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member


    Post up some pictures of your proposed flooring, and the area you wish to floor in its current state, easier to advise with photos.
     
  5. goldenboy

    goldenboy Well-Known Member

    This sounds like a great project.

    You will however need to machine all the timber uniform and square to get a good result.
     
  6. mrs erus

    mrs erus Member

    Ill post some in the morning, Ive tried to take pics but lighting makes it difficult.
     
  7. mrs erus

    mrs erus Member

    Morning, pics attached of the tiled floor going to the concrete bits (which were originally the old pantry) and from the kitchen part into the lounge, so from tiles to wooden boards. The end block picture is kind of the look I was thinking I could achieve based on the wood I have?

    9726786D-D557-45C1-9A59-E67A1EFFCEEE.jpeg CCA4FA5D-2EFC-4F20-8C32-6C28165ED39D.jpeg D838D5DF-DD54-4998-8EAD-B88DB17E8672.png
     
  8. AlvyChippy

    AlvyChippy Active Member

    For the wood floor you'll need a solid base, ply on a top of the tiles not good enough, would need to be fitted down, before some/anyhow finish floor would be fitted on to.
    How thick do you expect it to be? Pics of raw material would be good
     
  9. mrs erus

    mrs erus Member

    It can basically be as thick as it needs to be as the wood isn't cut yet, I figured that once Id cut it, I'll bring it all inside the house (currently in the shed, so dry other than atmospheric water content) and leave for 4 weeks before starting to lay the blocks.

    Can I ask why I would need to put ply onto of the tiles/concrete, aren't they solid enough, or do you mean that Id have to fix ply to the tiled floor rather than it being floating?? I was only thinking Id have to ply the wooden bit to get a flatter surface, but again, it will create a different height to the tiled bit?? (laminate flooring is looking more appealing by the day :-(
     
  10. Jord86

    Jord86 Well-Known Member

    If your current flooring and tiles are solid and fixed firmly down and the same level runs through with no step then I would look at priming the surface, then laying directly on top, using Sikabond T54 to bond your new flooring blocks to the old surfaces.
     
    mrs erus likes this.
  11. AlvyChippy

    AlvyChippy Active Member

    floating floor is properly joined either laminate or engineered floor, having normal wooden planks just laid out, be it even glued is asking for trouble- will be even more uneven that what you got in pictures inbetween different surfaces etc
    cheapest would be chipboard floor laid out, glued, screwed- levelled out, then you can lay real wood floor with glue and few nails to have a stable floor through.
    Asking to see the material, as I suspect it to be pine... unsuitable for flooring, unless going for "rustic" , just bit too soft for any glossy finish etc
     

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