extending lighting circuit.

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by ABID HUSSAIN, Jun 20, 2020.


    ABID HUSSAIN New Member


    Can I extend a lighting circuit just by adding extra cable into a junction box for more lights in the kitchen?
    Also can I bury my cable into my vaulted ceiling along a beam?

  2. Bob Rathbone

    Bob Rathbone Screwfix Select

    Abid, some photographs of the route of the proposed cable and the junction box with the lid off, would be useful.
    Pete Jones likes this.
  3. CeSparky1

    CeSparky1 Active Member

    Yes you can extend a lighting circuit to add more lights, though you need to make sure you extend the switched live not permanent live, plus you really should check the earth fault loop impedance to make sure that you are not exceeding the max Zs of the circuit. (If that makes no sense get in an electrician.)

    As for buying cable in the beam of a vaulted ceiling, its difficult without seeing it but my initial though would be no as it would compromise the beam, you can put a cable though a beam but there are all sorts of general rules around where and how big of a hole you can make. Surely there is a straight wall leading to the vaulted ceiling, although maybe not the shortest route this would be the correct way with the cable running along the ridge (Im guessing thats where you want the lights?), make sure you keep the cable within prescribed zones.

    ABID HUSSAIN New Member

    Hi. Thanks for your quick response. Please see photos attached. I have already channeled out the route for the cable as per sparkys instructions. The cable will then follow the beam and I will hang 2 or maybe 3 spotlights from the beam. I am planning on getting the industrial look trunking as the plastic stuff looks awful. What junction box would I use in the corner of where the wire meets the beam?

    Attached Files:

  5. You cannot have what you have done, it is a bodge and against the regs.
    You will need to get an Electrician who knows what he is doing.
  6. CeSparky1

    CeSparky1 Active Member

    +1 for what Deleted member 11267 said, there are so many issues with this, connector blocks in the wall, single insulated cable outside of an enclosure, cable route outside prescribed zones.

    Metal conduit would give you a good look but you still really need to get someone in to do this properly, I love the have a go attitude but its electricity, it has this tendency to want to kill people.

    ABID HUSSAIN New Member

    I agree with what you are saying but I did not do this. The wiring is now showing as the lights were taken off to install a kitchen. You can see the before location and where I have moved it up by about 2 inches. Regs state that there is a safety zone of 150mm of each side up, down left and right of and left. All I did was connect the light back up to the wall. The wiring was already in place by the electrician during the previous build. The plaster is dob and dab from previous build and I have as said previously just channeled out the route for the new wiring. The qualified electrician who came round last week told me which route to take for the new lights.
  8. Bazza

    Bazza Screwfix Select

    The 150mm is the measurement from the corner of a wall and down from the ceiling
    Not sure what you mean by
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2020
  9. CeSparky1

    CeSparky1 Active Member

    are you going to move the light back into the original position? Also the cable in the block does not seem long enough to reach the light so you still have that issue to sort out. Is the top corner 150mm from the edge of the ceiling?

    If you got a qualified electrician to come and tell you what to do why are you on here. Sorry but you either know what you are doing or you dont. I get annoyed at people getting a sparky in to give them advice for free so they can do it themselves thinking they are competent enough and then at the first hurdle they are not sure so come on a forum..

    You wouldnt let someone have a go at a bit of surgery on you would you. There is a reason it takes years to qualify as an electrician.

    ABID HUSSAIN New Member

    Hi CeSpark1
    I got an electrician in to do quite a bit of work. While he was here I asked him general questions and he explained that he did not have time to do the lights which is fine cos he is very busy( good at his job). Anyway, he explained to me what I needed to do to the lights to extend them, as in channeling out the wall for the wiring to go up and then on to the beam. He did not explain to me as to how to connect the actual wires to the existing wiring. The 150mm part where he explained that anywhere there is a socket or switch every sparky would be aware that the cable runs somewhere in that area. he certified all the work he had done for me. Last year I had another sparky look at my downlight installation and sockets in the conservatory and he said I had done everything thing right in there. I asked him to check and paid for some work I needed doing. I only came on here to get some general info and if it is something I am unable to do then yes I would get a qualified sparky in.

    I am not in any way an expert and am a DIYer for many years, installed 4 kitchens, bathroom installation, underfloor heating, plastering etc, and more than my share of tiling. I just like to check that my electrical work is OK and safe to do.
  11. CeSparky1

    CeSparky1 Active Member

    I think either you miss interpreted or he has miss interpreted the prescribed zones.

    Check out this link https://www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/electrical-safe-zones.htm

    Basically the 150mm applies along the ceiling and edges of walls, otherwise it is vertical within the width of the accessory or horizontally within the height of the accessory. You cannot go 150mm from anywhere there is a socket.

    Ok so connecting the light you have an issue because it is such a short length and you cannot leave those connector blocks in the wall. My suggestion would be to chase the cable back along the wall a little, your best bet is to make the connection within the light fitting if you can (The mini wago push fit connectors are your friends) if you cannot do this then you have a few options. You could put a back box with a blanking plate, make the connection in that back box (remembering to earth the back box if metal with a fly lead). You could bury a maintenance free connection block within a maintenance free enclosure in the wall to make the connections. Or you could take another cable from the light switch. Or you could chase the cable back to a point where you can make a connection.

    As you can see there are several acceptable methods, there might be others, without being there its difficult to say. If you are going for metal conduit you will need a stock and die.

    Hopefully that makes sense, its kinda difficult to explain, if it does great, if not please get someone in to do it properly. What I can tell you right now is that what you have done does not meet the regulations and could be potentially dangerous.

Share This Page