Extractor Fan wiring with pictures (replacing old one)

Discussion in 'Electricians' Talk' started by JayKay70, Nov 8, 2018.

  1. JayKay70

    JayKay70 New Member

    Hi All,

    After doing this post: https://community.screwfix.com/threads/looking-for-help-with-bathroom-extractor-fan.205282/

    I have decided to start afresh and install a more modern and upto date Fan Extractor, I am going to buy one with a timer and is IPX5 rated waterproof.

    So far i am purchasing the following:

    1 x Isolator Switch: https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-1-gang-10a-3-pole-fan-isolator-switch-white/69862

    1 x Pattress Box for Isolator switch: https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-1-gang-surface-pattress-box-30mm-white/32673

    1 x 3 core + earth wire 1mm for the wiring of it all: https://www.screwfix.com/p/prysmian-6243yh-3-core-earth-cable-1mm-x-10m-grey/43415

    My old fan is connected to a 3amp fused Isolator with Transformer (see attached piccys)

    I think it is then connected to the light fittings as the pull cord light switch has only two wires (see attached piccy)

    The fan will be fitted above the end of the bath where the existing one is.

    I am looking to fit the Isolator switch just above the fan in the loft as it's easy to get too.

    I think i am right in saying that due to the pull cord light switch only having two wires i cannot wire the cable coming from the isolator switch to it?

    So does that mean i will have to wire it to the light fitting? If so could someone have a look at my light fitting and give me some advice on how to wire it (see attached piccy of light fitting)

    Sorry for the long post, just trying not to leave anything out:confused:

    Looking forward to any advice you can give

    All the best

    Jay
     

    Attached Files:

  2. spirits are real 2016

    spirits are real 2016 Active Member

    the light fitting can not be exposed like that all cables should come through one hole if not enough room a junction box must be used in loft.

    yes you can not connect at the light switch because there is only live in and return at switch
    yes you would need to connect at light fitting where you can pick up the neutral.
    you would need to take one core from switched live and one core from permanent live.
    don't forget you must sleeve the earth wires.

    i might be wrong but you might not need a permanent live at the fan further advice coming.
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2018
    JayKay70 likes this.
  3. terrymac

    terrymac Well-Known Member

    Give details of the new fan please. Is it mains voltage or does it have a transformer built into it ,or does it need a remotely located transformer. How do you intend to switch it ? If you are not in scotland ,you may well be contravening building regulations ,as in england/ wales what you may be considering doing could well be notifiable works.
     
  4. JayKay70

    JayKay70 New Member

  5. JayKay70

    JayKay70 New Member

  6. terrymac

    terrymac Well-Known Member

    Thanks Jay ,so as I understand it ,you intend to remove the current transformer / wiring set up ,and rewire to a 230 volt fan with built in timer / over run. And you intend to have a seperate on / off switch ( ceiling light switch not controlling fan ). Is the circuit protected by an RCD ?? I would draw your attention to the section in the instruction manual referring to complying with building regs and that the installation has to be tested by a competent person. How do you intend to comply with these requirements ?? I have no wish to offend you , but i get the feeling that you might not have thought this through.

    Regards Terry
     
    JayKay70 likes this.
  7. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Well-Known Member

    I’m only diy me so not 100% sure of regs, best practice or all the ins and outs but .......

    Fairly sure that the fan isolator shouldn’t be fitted in the loft if the fan is fitted in the bathroom, ie. wall or ceiling mounted

    If in-line fan fitted in loft, then guess iso is ok there too

    As I understand it (but could be wrong) the fan iso should be easily seen and in an obvious location close to the fan

    Hopefully a pro spark can confirm this ?

    I’m happy to be corrected and educated ;)
     
    JayKay70 likes this.
  8. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Member

    When I have fitted a fan isolator switch I put it above the bathroom door. My understanding is that it should be sufficiently out of reach to not be used to turn the fan on/off but be accessible enough to isolate the fan for maintenance.
     
    JayKay70 likes this.
  9. JayKay70

    JayKay70 New Member

    Hi,

    Circuit is RCD protected.

    Building regs, when i moved into this council house i think they must of broken most regs, earth wires laying on the floor, visible wires hanging out of walls, light switches turning off the wrong lights etc etc, i rewired all of it and fitted all new sockets around the house, the council once every few years send someone around to check all electrics and everything passed, funny thing was he said to me "this is the first time this house has fully passed in all the years i have serviced it"....:eek:
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018
  10. JayKay70

    JayKay70 New Member

    Thats is what it looked like when i removed the light, i am fitting a new light and will rectify that when i fit the new light....thanks for the heads up.
     
  11. JayKay70

    JayKay70 New Member

    Yep, i also read that most people fit the isolator outside the room just above the door, i just thought it would be less ugly out of sight BUT will now fit it above bathroom door (outside) or in the bathroom out of reach, furthest away from any water.
     
  12. JayKay70

    JayKay70 New Member

    This is how i was going to do it, apart from the bit where he has connected from the isolator to the light switch as i cannot do this due to only having two wires, think mine would have to go straight to light fitting:

     
  13. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Well-Known Member


    Chop socket into wall up close to ceiling then drop cables from loft onto back box (grommet on cable entry/exit is nice :))

    Nobody wants to see a surface mounted accessory :eek:
     
    JayKay70 likes this.
  14. JayKay70

    JayKay70 New Member

    Hi all,

    Could someone have a look at this piccy/diagram and tell me if it looks correct?

    All the best

    Jay
     

    Attached Files:

  15. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Member

    The current 3+E colours are brown (not red), black and grey. It would be correct to sleeve the grey with blue as the neutral. The black should be sleeved with brown as it is live.
     
    JayKay70 likes this.
  16. JayKay70

    JayKay70 New Member

    Sorry, got my colors a bit messed up, so used to having all different colour wires in my house it :oops:

    Anyway, i have done a new picture (see attached).....main question is does the wiring look correct (colors aside)???.....with the earth i will just block them off.

    Basically will this work, does it look correct from Fan>Isolator>Light fittings?

    All the best

    Jay
     

    Attached Files:

  17. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Member

    If you are looking to control a light and a 230v fan from one switch the wiring might be as below. As well as the switched live to each of the light and the fan, the fan would also have a permanent live to allow it to run on after the light was switched off:
    light & fan 2.jpg
     
  18. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Member

    Forgot to include E wire down to switch in above diagram.
     
  19. JayKay70

    JayKay70 New Member

    Thanks for that diagram, just to confirm would it be something like this diagram i drew ealier (see attachment)
     

    Attached Files:

  20. robertpstubbs

    robertpstubbs Member

    Assuming you are keeping the light switch and ceiling rose per your above photos then NO.
     

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