Fascia to roof - gap size

mmatt

New Member
I've had a rotten fascia board replaced and noticed the gap between the fascia board and the slates seems pretty large, maybe a couple inches.
Does it need a drip edge installed or has the fascia just not been made big enough? Or is it all ok? It's on an extension which is about 30 years old and don't think there was a drip edge there already but also don't remember the gap being as large before the rotten panel was removed.
Any advice appreciated. If it just needs a extra thin strip cut and fixed that seems easy enough.

It was also fitted with redwood (PAR) but only painted on the external faces (except the top noticed in the photo). Should I paint the inner facing side too?
 

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It looks as though the bottom eaves course have been pushed up out of the way, underneath the current bottom row, & has not been pulled back into their original position.
Even when back in their original position water will still get through the joints, which is why the original fascia rotted.
An eaves tray would be beneficial.
The bottom rows normally have a mechanical fixing also.
To be completely waterproof the two bottom rows would end up at the same point, but in your case that does not look the case.
 
Last edited:
OP, Whoever originally tiled your roof did you no favours.
There are a number of details that show the original roof was set out wrong.

However, to your question:
I cant see for sure if there's roofing felt or eaves tiles below the first course of full tiles.
Felt & tiles should project over the gutter by about 40mm to 50mm.
OSB(?) board edges can be seen?
The leadwork (against an abutment?) looks a bit wild - can you post a pic showing the abutment, & what looks like cover flashing, with the tiles in place & with a few abutment tiles removed?
And after lifting some of the bottom course tiles can you post a pic of what you expose?
 
It looks as though the bottom eaves course have been pushed up out of the way, underneath the current bottom row, & has not been pulled back into their original position.
Even when back in their original position water will still get through the joints, which is why the original fascia rotted.
An eaves tray would be beneficial.
The bottom rows normally have a mechanical fixing also.
To be completely waterproof the two bottom rows would end up at the same point, but in your case that does not look the case.

Thanks for your feedback (apologies for the delayed reply - looking after a 1 year old is taking up all my time!!)

The roofer is coming back today to fix the paint work so I'll ask about the bottom eaves course, thanks as hadn't noticed that. I'll see if they can do an eaves try too.

Thanks for your help
Matt
 
OP, Whoever originally tiled your roof did you no favours.
There are a number of details that show the original roof was set out wrong.

However, to your question:
I cant see for sure if there's roofing felt or eaves tiles below the first course of full tiles.
Felt & tiles should project over the gutter by about 40mm to 50mm.
OSB(?) board edges can be seen?
The leadwork (against an abutment?) looks a bit wild - can you post a pic showing the abutment, & what looks like cover flashing, with the tiles in place & with a few abutment tiles removed?
And after lifting some of the bottom course tiles can you post a pic of what you expose?

Thanks for your help too. Yeah no idea who did the original roof, think it was about 30 year ago and long before we moved in a anyway. Agree that the leadwork looks pretty wild, I've taken the photos from a different bedroom window so don't have easy access to remove some slates or other angles, but will see if I can get up the roofers ladder today when they are back to do this (the photos at least). I'll see if they can advise on the felt too.

Cheers for your help
Matt
 
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