I am the heretic. Captain Crash posted this question on the Painters Talk forum and it seems to have touched a nerve with wood lovers. I do not support painting Oak with opaque paint but do think it worth noting that varnish has moved on with technology and may actually provide the best means of preserving a floor that is used in a domestic environment. Oak has wonderful properties of oxidation when used in exposed external positions - it goes grey, the grain often splits and it lasts for years. However, in the year 2003 some folk may want a surface that is durable, colour fast and stable that can actually be washed with a wet mop when Ribena or Gin is spilt on it. Let the Captain use this new fangle modern varnish stuff so that he may daily gaze on that perfectly sanded, smoothe and colour fast surface whilst his babies happily crawl without shards of hard wood in their knees. Save oil for cricket bats and car engines - you know it makes sense. Honestly, I love wood too.
pugley dear chap, oil of one kind or another is the only GOOD protection for wood.... we have just finished some work for the heritage trust, and the gatehouse in question has only been standing since 1390, complete with it's beautifully worn oak spiral steps, from the ground floor thro 3 levels to the "loft" under the roof, the steps are all original, okay the might be slightly out of shape a bit, and well worn to the centres, but they are stiil in good enough shape to be being used each day by the owner(the gatehouse and castle have been in their family since day one), and all that has ever been done to these steps is to oil them twice a year........as oil lets the wood breath.. as nature intended..all the beams are oak as well, but they only get oiled once every 18 months..... and seeing as it's still here after nearly 600 yrs....enough said i beleive
i have always liked that pugley bloke!!!!! dear wolf; what if the oak is a tv cabinet for example in solid wood in a central heated house, lacquer for example would, if applied all round,would help solid wood hold its dimension and flatness. ps i am debating not arguing
not really, as contrary to popular belief, most laq,s do NOT allow timber to breath.. and all the self respecting makers that i know, use either oils or a spirit based stain/wax combination (who's formula is closer guarded than the coke-a cola- formula) and before you start charlie, it is not the sort of spirit you drink, and for god sake C.F. do come out from under the computer table, there's a good chap.
i forgot about this section of the castle grounds...on the land where the gate house is that i have previously mentioned, is a church, only a small church, but never the less it is mega old, and part of it is what was/as called a "RUDE SCREEN", and this particular screenhas been within the churh for over 1100 years, and all it is held together with are oak pegs.. and to think that it is all hand carved is beyond belief... the other thing is that once a year someone will come and apply an oil/spirit based mixture to keep it in top condition...if i were able to produce just one thing of such beauty and sheer grandeur,from timber, then i could quite happily die tomorrow...knowing that hopefully it will live on for centuries...for people to marvel at........
Charlies Here Tra! Laa! Laa! Hello Wolf I saw the light in the night sky and just knew I was needed. Hello Your Scrumptiousness and he whose feet I seek to bathe in warm unicorns milk aka Mr Murderator Slurp! lick! Back to business......... The mix is 1:5 of white spirit : Danish oil, and use the odourless stuff else you will be hunted down and slayed like a wild boar, and 5 parts danish oil. I heat it up by filling a bowl with boiling water and sitting the kettle in it. Use a kettle err paint kettle that is. This will help constitute the oil and W/S and thin it down further. Apply with a clean rag using a brush to get in to the awkward places and wipe off the excess. Do not allow for the layers to be uneven carefully scrutinise the application for thicker areas than others. Wait for it to dry (about an hour) then do it again but keep the oil heated. The floor will take on a golden glow be careful not to overdo it cos it is a mild stainer too. Give it five coats. Once you have finished use a camera on a tripod with a delayed action shutter, carefully position the camera tripod, remove all garments and lay naked on the finished job adopt several sexy poses and let the camera roll then you will have pictures for ever reminding you of the hyper sexy job you have done on the floor. Avoid all urges to snog the floor for several days as the Danish Oil has some toxins in. Wait until it has thoroughly dried (cured), about a week to be sure before intimate physical contact which you will inevitably have. Coat with a good quality wax and polish gently. repeat the polishing every month or when required. Also pays to scribe you name and details under the floor as it will be the only remaining thing left after Armageddon. I must away Gotham City calls - Goodbye Lord Loveliness, Mr Murderator, God of Good Slurp! Slobber! Suck! Only 7 messages left before I have to depart. My batteries run out at 250 - Use them wisely
Just to add a late two peneth worth at this stage Osterman and schwier make an excellent floor finish called OS hardwax oil (various natural oils and drying agents, so technically a traditional varnish )try any decent decoraters merchants, it goes on easy, dryies fairly quick and the finish lasts well, i tried it and would not use anything else now where a hardwearing finish is needed, they also do other timber finishes that seem equally as good.
the real good waxes and oil polishes are always one you make and boil your self.... but it can be dangerous if you don't know what you are doing....