Finishing oak veneer doors - what to use?

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by Mattcee, Jan 23, 2018.

  1. Mattcee

    Mattcee Member

    What do you guys suggest using to seal/protect oak veneer internal doors?
    I've used waxes, oils, stains and varnish (and paint) in the past on softwoods but never had to seal a hardwood before - except our worktops where I used 'Osmo Polyx Oil' which I though was brilliant stuff.
    I liked the sheen it gave, and the hardy protection and didn't leave the wood feeling and looking dry like a lot of oils do after a short amount of time.
    That hardy sheen is important too with 3 kids running about with their sticky fingers!

    Would the Osmo Polyx Oil be suitable for internal oak doors or is there something else I could use?
    Bear in mind the Osmo Polyx Oil isn't cheap and I need to finish both sides of 15 doors.
     
  2. Astramax

    Astramax Well-Known Member

    If it's good enough for worktops and flooring then it sounds perfect.
     
  3. Mattcee

    Mattcee Member

    I just looked at the spec sheet on the doors and it says NOT to use "thin penetrating seals, oils, wax, dyes or hard, brittle finishes".
    Not sure why they are saying an oil is unsuitable?
     
  4. Astramax

    Astramax Well-Known Member

    Google Sadolin Polyurathane clear satin varnish, water base product superb finish and a doddle to use.
     
  5. Mattcee

    Mattcee Member

    Nice one, looks perfect.
     
  6. Astramax

    Astramax Well-Known Member

    Used it last year on Oak doors, skirting and architrave, doing the same this week at another address, looks brill!
     
    retiredsparks likes this.
  7. AlvyChippy

    AlvyChippy Active Member

    DO NOT use none water based varnish (or acrylic or PU)
    Great chance of veneer splinting, bubbling, peeling off in patches... done it myself... (had to replace both front and back doors for a customer at my own expense)
    Still get flash-backs :(

    Those are good-strong for solid wood, but most of veneer is PVA type of resin glued on, hence any moisture is no go, unless you are really good and quick with it and have the time to let it dry out bone dry with each coat
     
  8. AlvyChippy

    AlvyChippy Active Member

    real Oak, but not veneered, lucky you!
     
  9. Astramax

    Astramax Well-Known Member

    I don't work at 'poor houses' I go where the money is. :D;)

    10 years ago I re-faced several doors with 4mm Oak faced ply, water based varnished all of them, 3 coats on each door............no problem. Been back to do other work over the years and they still look absolutely fine.
     
  10. AlvyChippy

    AlvyChippy Active Member

    brrr
    these days they are at most 1.5mm thick with layer of glue...
    as said- still get flash-backs :oops:
    and I had did it something like 4-5 years ago, when there was plenty of solvent based Diamond Coat, but NNOOO!_ decided to try water based....
     
  11. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Well-Known Member


    This is stated by a lot of the door manufacturers with their ‘real wood’ veneer finishes

    Apparently the oil (or other finishes mentioned) ‘may’ cause the veneer to delaminate as it soaks in and softens the adhesive

    Problem is there will be plenty of people who have gone ahead and used an oil finish and obtained a great end result, with similiar doors

    But going against manufacturers recommendations and with 15 doors ....... scary stuff :eek:

    Can’t recomend any finish myself, just aware of the above
     
  12. fillyboy

    fillyboy Well-Known Member

    From wickes website: "Door requires finishing using water based paint, stain or varnish. These doors are not suitable for treatment with any type of oil, wax or polish"

    From Howdens website: "Ready for finishing with varnish, stain or Osmo Oil"

    Both are veneered doors. I fitted some wickes doors a few months back and the owner oiled them, no probs that I'm aware of. Curious.
     
    AlvyChippy likes this.
  13. Mattcee

    Mattcee Member

    Exactly this. Some site seems to say different things so I've emailed the manufacturer direct.
    Normal oil does seep into the grain so its understandable why that shouldn't be used on veneer but Osmo Oil (while an oil still) tends to sit on top like a varnish.
     
  14. Carol Jeynes

    Carol Jeynes New Member

    Can I ask what you ended up using in the end as I’m in the same delema and have 20 to do !!!
     
  15. Mattcee

    Mattcee Member

    I've not yet had time to fit them but hope to in the next couple of weeks.
    I bought a couple of tins of Sadolin Polyurathane clear satin varnish tho as advised on here so I'll post back when I finally get around to doing them.
     
    Carol Jeynes likes this.
  16. goldenboy

    goldenboy Well-Known Member

    You are referring to exterior doors though. Thats a different matter.

    Nothing wrong at all with using something like Ronseal Diamond Hard on internal doors.
     
  17. goldenboy

    goldenboy Well-Known Member

    Use Ronseal Diamond Hard. All my customers do. Easy to use and looks and lasts great.
     
  18. Mattcee

    Mattcee Member

    Just an update, started fitted the doors now and and very happy with the Sadolin. Goes on really well and dries real fast too and doesn't really smell. Does need at least 2 coats tho.
     
    KIAB, AlvyChippy and Astramax like this.
  19. Astramax

    Astramax Well-Known Member

    :);)
     
  20. Cecilb70

    Cecilb70 Active Member

    Ronseal diamond hard with a roller and a soft brush to very quickly lay off. I did 6 doors in a day ( 2 coats) i was done for 2. Matt looks great.
     

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