Fire doors

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by John Bunyan, Aug 27, 2021.

  1. John Bunyan

    John Bunyan Member

    A customer has asked me to price up for fire doors. They have bought a house with a 2nd floor loft conversion and are bringing it up to regs. Others are doing new stairs to loft. I'm doing kitchen, doors, skirts ECT..
    Who should I liaise with regarding fire doors?
    Not familiar with this.
    35mm FD 30? Door closers? Intumescent strip in new doors?
     
  2. ginger tuffs

    ginger tuffs Screwfix Select

    You will probably need to fit fire door and frame to meet fire standards
     
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  3. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Active Member

    Intumescent strips fit into grooves routered into the frame, not into the door, so new frames would be favourite as ginger says above. These have to be full-on rebated linings - separate stop lats won’t do, so there’s pretty much no room for any inaccuracy = another reason why new frames are really needed. I’ve done FD30 and FD60’s into old frames and it’s a pain because you can only get the router within 6” of the top and bottom of the jambs, and the same with the head. The rest has to be done carefully with chisels and a mallet, because the tolerance of the rebate is critical to the performance of the strip. Regs also stipulate a tolerance of 3mm or less between the door and frame. You’ll also need to source fire-rated hardware as well as closers. Howdens is your best bet.
     
    Last edited: Aug 27, 2021
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  4. ginger tuffs

    ginger tuffs Screwfix Select

    Screwfix sell a good range of fire rated hardware
     
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  5. stevie22

    stevie22 Screwfix Select

    Worth talking to BC. Some doors can just be upgraded which is a whole lot easier. The intumescent strips can go in the door: that's what I did with my daughters place and BC were happy
     
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  6. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Active Member

    I was actually going to suggest that, mate. There's a lot of discrepancy on this topic - in Derbyshire (where I am) strips fitted to the door are a total no-no - local LABC reason that if a strip-fitted door is ever removed, the fire protection gets removed along with it. They say that scenario is way more likely than someone removing a frame. But you're right - talk to your local BC and get some guidance from them. They might even insist on FD60's.
     
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  7. John Bunyan

    John Bunyan Member

    Thanks for all the comments. Yes I agree, leaving the casings as they are would be a lot easier. Of course we know old casings can be all over the place so fitting new doors to tight tolerances can be a pain too.
    So is it normal for the tradesmen to talk directly to the building inspector? Otherwise I'd be working on second hand information from the customer. Unless of course the BI put it in writing?
     
  8. John Bunyan

    John Bunyan Member

    Also what's the acceptable gap at bottom of door? Floors could be badly out of level as well as door casings so you can end up with a 20mm gap when closed.
     
  9. stevie22

    stevie22 Screwfix Select

    If you are just doing one element of the work then I suggest that your client needs to tell you exactly what he wants,

    One hopes he has BC on board and it's up to him to find out what's acceptable.

    Having previously checked with BC that they were happy, I used a company called Envirograf to supply my stuff. They were really helpful, advised what I needed for the doors I had and provided detailed instructions. They provided clear or white finish and if I recall correctly I spent 3 days in aggregate to do 7 doors (which included finished paint work.
     
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  10. woodbutcherbower

    woodbutcherbower Active Member

    Normally 8-10mm above the finished flooring. If you have any more than that, you need to put down a threshold to reduce the gap. You can also reduce it further using a cold smoke seal.
     
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