Fitting fire door

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by tore81, Sep 24, 2015.

  1. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    I've w*****d over the catalogue o_Oo_O
  2. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    Was that in the shop? Or perhaps at a Toolfair?
  3. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    It was open on my wifes back, we've been together over 20 years so we need to add fantasy to our sex life. ;);)
  4. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    Is your profile picture connected with this hobby at all:(:(
  5. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    I'm too old to experiment with drugs so I'm playing with facial hair, I have a massive beard at the mo.
  6. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    This is what you want for routing out for intumescant strips...

    Expensive, but it means you can lie the door flat on trestles and just whiz round the door. Chippies fine as he has 2 fences, but with just one its easy to wander with a twin flute bit, especially if the router bit picks up.

    Generally 15mm with the smoke brush strip is the way to go and there should be no more than a 3mm gap between door and frame

    If fitting into an existing frame, then you will prob need to deepen the rebate. 3 possible ways...

    1. Take off archs and run fence of router along edge of frame.

    2. Screw a temporary fence to frame (my preferred method if using a router) which means you can leave archs in place. I just use a 30mm guide bush and an old worktop router bit.

    3. Mini plunge/circular saw, then a sonicrafter/multi tool to finish off.
    Definitely the most pleasant. I don't like holding a router over my head!!

    Also you should have fire check door stops 38x25mm. If frame is already rebated, just fit an additional standard stop to beef it up.

    Fit 3" latch so handle is not to close to frame so you don't pinch ya fingers!!

    If you need door closers, my preference is for external, but I do a lot of rental properties and their not to everyone's taste at home. You can get good ones for less than a tenner if you search tinternet and just so much less hassle. Take 10 mins to fit too when you've done a couple and much more adjustable as well.

    Prob about it :rolleyes: :confused: :D
  7. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    At last, someone who knows what they are talking about :p:p
  8. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    Thankyou CGN Some great advice I don't need to mess with the frame thankfully.

    I'm not sure what you mean by arches but I'm guessing you take door stop off. Too do the frame.

    Is there a way to set the router bit up to Align it centre of the door. Or should the rebate be in the centre of the door.

    I'm guessing I can line it up with the old door drop in and that's my template for the new one.
  9. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    arches means architraves.
  10. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    I was just being lazy and making an assumption...'archs' being architrave. :)

    Regarding routing, if you dont use the cutter I gave the link too, then put your door on its edge and using a 2 flute bit set your fence for the bit to run central. Do the sides first from top to bottom, then put the door on a crate or something and do the top edge. Because you have done the sides first, you shouldn't get any 'tear out' if doing top first etc. The strips are 4mm thick so I'd recommend 2 passes of 2mm.

    Chippie being a flash g*t has 2 fences so his bit will always be perfectly centered( unless he's had a glass of pop :D) but its easy for the router to kick and 'scroll out' a tad when using just one fence. Alternatively, you can make a jig with a bit of mdf to help keep it centred.

    The beauty of the cutter I linked to, means that you can have the door flat so its easier to work with and you don't need a fence. The base of the router has more contact and the bearing on the cutter sets the depth perfectly. Prob not worth the outlay for 2 doors though.

    If your frames aren't rebated and you have removable door stops then your laughing! Just take off existing, hang door, then fit new 'fire check' ones.

    Hope I've clarified? If away! ;)
  11. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Thanks Chippie, missed your explanation before replying :)
  12. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    You're spot on apart from I'm not a flash git.
    Around 20 years ago when I bought my router I had to fit a lot of door locks and was in love with the things a router could do, having come from a mechanical engineering background, so 2 fences and using clamps as stops meant accurate, repeatable, results and I can't mess it up.
    I rarely do fire doors so buying a cutter wouldn't enter my head.
    All your advice is good.
    CGN likes this.
  13. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

  14. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    Cheers guys off to buy my festool.

    I won't be paying for the router bit CGN. So I will go with the link you sent.

    when using the method of router base sitting on the face of door. Is it easy to then adjust to the centre where the the strip will go? It look right dead centre. Do you just measure or use a square?

    Ye the arches threw me a bit lol.
  15. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    Can't believe it Just went to buy the festool. After all this time. The fookin shop, I went too doesn't do festool anymore. Doesn't make enough money. Bit stuck now

    Anyone used internet companies? I normally like to buy from a shop especially something so expensive.
  16. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Axminster are doing the ts55 for £340 or look at ItsLondon or DMTools or Flints Hire and Supply, they are all totally reliable.
  17. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Just use a hand or circular probs. You set the router bit central by adjusting plunge depth. :)
  18. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    Cheers lads! There is a festool show near me next sat. So I may go to that first. Might get a deal. Or see a battery one perform.

    But I will check those companies
  19. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    I have to say I avoid DM Tools if I can. I had an extractor fail a few years back and they were very difficult to deal with and weren't keen on honouring a warranty.
  20. tore81

    tore81 Screwfix Select

    Hi guys with the festool. I'm guessing rather than planing taking 5mil 10mil off doors. You can just set the rail up to this.

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