Fitting skirting on skimmed dot & dab wall

Discussion in 'Carpenters' Talk' started by craigo, Jul 15, 2015.

  1. craigo

    craigo Member


    I've had just had my living room skimmed, and have bought some 100mm primed mdf skirting to fit.

    When the plasterer was here I asked him to try to get as low as possible to the floor, as I was planning to stick the new skirting with GripFill or something... But he didn't go as far down as I'd liked.

    There's approx. 50mm gap between the bottom of the skim coat and the floor, and the edge is quite rough as well.

    I'm not sure there is enough flat, smooth plaster to stick to, so I'm considering using plugs and screws, but being dry lined, this adds to my confusion - should I just use plasterboard plugs, or drill a much deeper hole right into the block and use longer screws?

    Also - as there is a gap behind the bottom half of the skirting, I'm concerned this will cause the screws to pull the bottom in and make the top stick out.. How would I stop this from happening?

    Any thoughts / advice very welcome!

  2. FatHands

    FatHands Well-Known Member

    put a spirit level against the wall and then measure the distance from that to the wall and cut some timber blocks to that size. Screw those to the block work and then screw the skirting to the blocks.
  3. craigo

    craigo Member

    Hmm. Sorry I probably didn't explain very well. I meant the skim coat doesn't go all the way down to the ground,

    The gap behind there is only about 5mm.

    Unless you mean to cut away the plasterboard to make room for the wooden blocks?

  4. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    It's quite normal. Just put some good dabs of grip fill and the odd screw 3/4 of the way up.
    craigo likes this.
  5. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Oh, and don't forget to scribe your internal corner joints ;)
    jeznotts and craigo like this.
  6. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    As said, just build up the gripfil at the plasterboard, the skirting will squash it flush for you. Press tight at the top only-onto the plaster.

    I had occasion once where there was a deeper gap. I blobbed adhesive in places, scraped it flush with a straight-edge down the wall and allowed it to set. Fixing the skirting to that was perfect(nice straight fit along the plastered wall too).

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
  7. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    The skim never goes down to the floor and it's not supposed to.
  8. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    Use expanding foam in a gun. Lightly mist the plaster with a plant sprayer and then put a couple of neat beads of foam on the skirting and just push it into place. Stick something heavy against it for 10 mins and it will be off. Gripfill doesn't like fresh plaster too much. It fails a lot.

    I cannot remember the last time I used Gripfill. Foam is a superb fixing medium. Used properly and with a well set up gun it will do most jobs.
  9. craigo

    craigo Member

    Thanks everyone :)

    If that's the norm then I won't panic too much. Probably just need some moral support!

    I'll just have to rely on whatever adhesive I use (not sure which yet) to fill the gap.

    When I did this in my last house, I didn't know you were meant to scribe internal mitres, so I didn't. Still came out ok tho, I think.

    But this time I know better.

    CGN likes this.
  10. Mr. Handyandy

    Mr. Handyandy Screwfix Select

    If you're clever enough, you can mitre(but I WON'T start that debate up again).

    Mr. HandyAndy - Really
  11. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    Here we go Handy! You've lit the touchpaper now!
    Biffo likes this.
  12. craigo

    craigo Member

    Oh dear. Didn't mean to open the worm can.

    Until recently I didn't know there was any other way.

    Maybe I'm clever, more likely I just got lucky...
  13. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    I was working with a load of polish lads the other day who had never seen scribing!
  14. chippie244

    chippie244 Super Member

    Did they just butt it up and fill with caulk? ;)
    CGN likes this.
  15. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    Or silicone!
  16. goldenboy

    goldenboy Super Member

    Just a gaping mitre!
  17. CGN

    CGN Screwfix Select

    I had to fit skirting in a right angled triangle shaped room once...had to mitre 2 of the corners!! ;)
  18. DIYDave.

    DIYDave. Screwfix Select

    Just the thoughts of a diy'er here but when fiting long lengths of skirting, and using gripfill or similar, solvent based, have found that it skins up so quickly that it doesn't always squash flat between wall and skirting.

    Also agree that on fresh plaster, have seen skirts come off the wall with the gripfill stuck to the timber but clean off the wall

    Have found it sticks better if the plaster is mist coated first and also prefer using solvent free,cleaner to use, longer working time, wipe any excess away with damp cloth and no strong smell. Have been buying Evo Stick brand lately, yellow tube

    Ok, you don't get the same instant grab but just find it's so much easier to work with
    Deleted member 33931 likes this.
  19. craigo

    craigo Member


    The plaster's been mist coated as far as I can, but there does seem to be a concern that grip fill might not be the best option!

    Perhaps I should use expanding foam. I've never used expanding foam before 'cos I always imagine it 'expanding' too much and popping things off the wall etc.. o_O
  20. I'd use expanding foam with extreme caution. By that I mean I wouldn't exp foam at all...

    As a fellow DIYer, I'm with Dave on this one - for exactly the same reasons. Solvent-based adhesives skin very quickly, so when you squish them betwixt t'skirting and t'wall, part of the skinned surface of the bead - which is now pressed against the wall and skirting - struggles to adhere; the bits that stick best is from the adhesive that 'bursts' out from that skin. Ok, if you are super-quick and it also goes smoothly first time, then fine.

    Also, it can skin to the point of having a thick skin in a couple of short minutes, so can be hard to press fully flush unless you are quick and it all goes well.

    Also, if you need to reposition the work for any reason, even immediately, you're going to have a hell of a mess.

    Also, solvent-free can be applied with more abandon as it's simply not a chore when excess gets extruded out - simply wipe off with a damp cloth to leave a virtually-filled finish. In fact it allows you to place a bead close to the edges knowing it'll only be of benefit. If solvent-based stuff got squished out, you'd have to tackle it with a scraper or similar.


    You chust need to ensure you have clamps/braces or plugs/screw to hand before you position the work. With skirting I prefer to brace the skirting in place with long battens either from across from the other wall, or via blocks screwed into the floor (if it's a bare floor, of course...) or even from heavy furniture (if it's your ain hoosie...). Ie - no screws at all.

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