Hi All, Have recently had our windows redone and so we now need to re-mount the venetian blinds. The windows are in a cavity with a wood sill and plasterboard wall and ceiling (approx 10 cm deep) and brick on the outside. Flat was build around the early 1990's. The brackets were previously drilled into timber window frames. Have replaced with UPVC so trying to avoid drilling into the frames. I have used nylon wall plugs so far to mount the brackets, which has worked successfully for most of the windows. However have one big section of 3 windows where I can only mount the brackets to the ceiling. I've tried drilling up and putting the nylon plug in but finding that hit a metal piece at around 2 cm. Guessing this is the lintel? Trying to figure out the best way to proceed and would appreciate any advice. Feels I have a few options: 1. If I drill out a bit I get past the lintel and find plaster board with the cavity where I can put in plugs as I have but am concerned with the plugs not being strong enough to support blinds from the ceiling and we lose usable window sill space because there is a 5 cm gap between the windows and the blinds. 2. I use a shorter plug, but concerned this is not enough support for the blinds especially from the ceiling. 3. Drill into the lintel? If this is the answer what type of drill, screws, and plugs/support do I need to use? Any thoughts or advice on how to proceed would be much appreciated. And in general are nylon plugs sufficient support for mounting blinds onto the walls or do they risk coming out over time as well? Was also considering spring toggles or redidrives but presume these may be overboard? Have also attached pictures of the window cavity. Thanks for the help. Read more: https://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/hanging-blinds-in-plasterboard.494455/#ixzz51X9sF1Z9
This type of fixing might work as long as the blinds are not to heavy. If they are heavy no plasterboard only fixing will do the job properly.
Thanks. what do you classify as heavy? They're probably 2 - 3 kg. And will this work within 2 cm as I still have the challenge of 2 cm before hitting the lintel?
The fixing above requires a gun to compress it behind the board, so if they are a little long you can compress it a little, push it further in and compress a bit more and so in until home, as long the fixing bolt is not going to be to long after its through the blind fitting it will be good to go, if you feel the bolt is to long you will need to cut it down to suit.
You might just get away with these https://www.screwfix.com/p/gripit-y...odejoLIA#product_additional_details_container
Be a long screw though won't it, say 10mm for bracket, 12mm plasterboard, 20mm void and 15/20mm into lintel so 60/65mm self tapper. ??
Think they were featured on Dragons Den a couple of years back then SF took them on board. Helped along by Deborah Meaden I seem to remember Amazing really the number of fixings available to basically hold a screw firm into PB, then someone comes along and re invents the wheel
Are they the type of blinds where you ‘yank’ on a cord to raise them up and then lower them again ? If so, it’s not just the weight of the blinds, it’s the daily (?) yanking that will take it’s toil So a firm fixing needed indeed Plenty of ideas offered within post
Hi RGat. This is a very common problem. I've lost count to the number of times I've been called by customers for help after they, or usually, their other halves, have ran into problems fitting blinds. The easiest/most effective solution is to drill into the lintel. I use a 4mm cobalt bit from the competition (you get a pack of two for a few pence). Drill hole- fix bracket with a twin thread 4.5 wood screw- job done. You could use a self tapper if you're feeling especially technical but there really is no need, imo. Looking at the pics, I would move the brackets out from the window and bit, you'll have problems with them catching the handles that close in.
DeWalt extreme drill from screwfix makes drilling the lintel easy I find. Takes 30 seconds to go through. Don't go to fast though. Steady spinning speed. Then self tapping screw.. Done loads..
Sometimes. Easier to start off with small drill.Small hole to make a pilot hole then move up to size required.
I appreciate you taking the time to reply. I am fitting wooden slat blinds into the recess of a window in a new build house, they are very heavy. I have first encountered plasterboard about 18mm then I am hitting some sort of metal. When I eventually get through the metal there seems to be a void and when the drill bit recedes it has polyurethane insulation wrapped around it. I have plugged the hole and used a self tapping screw around 50mm in length but I am not confident at all.